Fabbin' on my YJ again

[oltmann]

It's been a while since I've done any fab work on the YJ. Until this month.

This past summer I bought joints, got some link material and started cutting out brackets to 4link the rear. I also got very ahead of myself and picked up some used 16" SAW remote resi coilovers.

After doing a lot of thinking(and a couple conversations with Erik D_lux), I decided it would be best to put the COs in the front, and move my spring buckets to the back. I just wasn't happy with the amount of uptravel I have and the radius arm setup(high anti-dive and low vertical seperation at the axle).

So instead of linking the rear, I'm starting out by redoing my front end. I'm no longer going to be a running a steering box, full hydro(balanced) from here on out. Also going to do a 3 link(keeping the panhard). Should move from 5" VS on the axle with the radius arms, to 9" with the 3link.

So far, I have pulled the suspension, steering and winch off the front. Then cut the front frame off at the apex of it's curve, just ahead of the motor mounts. Tacked a new front frame together, should finish welding it and get it stuck on the jeep this weekend. The new frame section will run completely above where the old frame was located, and through the bottom of the grill.

Hope to have time to start on the 3 link as well, as the rest of the parts I need should be delivered before the weekend.

Pics to follow.

[79chevy39.5's]

sounds fun post up the pics as you get em

(yes yes i know im a picture whore)

[oltmann]

Not many pics yet. Here is what I have.

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[toyman2]

wow i wish i had your time right now.
im sure like everything else you have done its going to be sweet.
more pic please

[79chevy39.5's]

awsome cant wait to get through school and start makin real money instead of this bs I call a paycheck

anyways should be awsome good luck

[oltmann]

More. Didn't get a lot to take pics of this time. The new frame looks longer than the old piece, but that's just because the diagonal kicker will be sleeved inside the frame.









Spent way too long this weekend fitting the grill hoop for the new frame piece. Oh well, it's done now. Hope to get it all welded up one night this week.

[79chevy39.5's]

to pile it into one word awsome

[oltmann]

Thanks. It's coming along.

I forgot to add, once I get it in the rig, I'm going to run a crossbar behind the winch and in front of the grill. Tie it into the back of the winch mount.

[mr. jones]

that looks really clean i will keep track of this build

[79chevy39.5's]

are the C.O's gunna be attached up around the tube fenders? or are you going to make hoops from down on the new frame section?

[oltmann]

The COs are going to be mounted on hoops that tie from behind the grill(new frame) to behind the motor mount(old frame).

Depending on how the shocks need to run, I'm planning to either mount straight off the top of the frame, or off of the outside edge.

In the first pic of this second series, you can actually see the two hoops laying under the jeep.

[79chevy39.5's]

seems like you should be fine and looks like you have a good plan going but with the coils on the shocks is there any problems with them coming too close to the frame with it being straight there?

[colemancooler]

very nice

[toyman2]

looks good kevin

[Paul]

Looking great! Can't wait to see the finished product on those hoops.

[oltmann]

Thanks guys. Heres an update. Frame on and plated on the outside.







Should get to the 3 link tomorrow, maybe start the coilover mounts.

[oltmann]

As part of this project I had to pull the winch off(of course). That got me thinking. I've wanted to switch to synthetic rope for a while. For safety, handling, and weight it seems to have a clear advantage.

But 100'+ of 3/8" amsteel is in the $200 ballpark from the offroad suppliers. I couldn't rationalize going out that much for winch rope.

Here's where the thinking part comes in. I haven't done a full 100' pull with the winch in a long time(years). I've decided to run a shorter(50' usable) main line, and have a 40' extension. I figure by keeping the extension shorter than the main line, if I do need to do a long pull, I can pull the extension out and reattach to the same tree strap with the main line.

This might be a bad idea. I might get sick of only finding trees 55' away when I need to winch. But I think it will work, I guess we'll have to see.

The best part is the cost. If you search ebay for 'amsteel', there are a couple of people that are selling new short sections. I imagine it's boat rigging shops that are selling the ends of their spools.

I also decided to run the main line as 1/2". It's extremely excessive strength when new, but I want to have a huge safety margin after the line begins to get dirty and worn. Most synthetic lines I have seen on other people's rigs looks a little frayed and worn, but they are still running it. I wouldn't feel comfortable with that on thinner line. I'm going to be using a 3/8" extension rope.

Does this strike anybody as crazy or completely wrong?

[colemancooler]

It seems like you have really thought this out. I cannot dissagree with you. You will even be pulling at closer to your winches capacity with a shorter rope. please let me know how this works for you. I have allways ben concerned about how durable the rope would be in a mud situation, But I think you have all the bases covered

[Paul]

Looks really good! I like it. You'll have generous uptravel for sure. Was the grill still structurally sound after you notched it? Did you tie it in to the frame?

I like your idea for your winch. You could always buy a third section to store in your trail bags.

[oltmann]

I'm glad my winch logic doesn't sound too far out there. Sometimes I get too creative...

The grill seems pretty stout, for now. It still might be a shell by the time I'm done.

After fully welding the frame in, I started the work for the 3 link. Cycled up the axle to nearly full compression, and tried to lay out the panhard. I want the panhard on first, then I can do the 3rd link at ride height, then pull the radius arm uppers and cycle the new suspension to check for clearance. I'll be reusing the radius arm lowers.

Well, I couldn't even run the new panhard. On the drivers side, the radiator return is just too low. You can kind of see what I mean in the second pic above. The panhard runs directly in front of the truss, and will lay right on top of the diff at full stuff.

Long story short, I need a shorter radiator to continue with the 3 link. I did a lot of research yesterday, and this morning ordered a 19" tall by 24" wide 2-core aluminum radiator from speedway motors. I plan to also install a taurus 2speed electric fan 'while I'm in there'.

The new rad is 3" shorter, and has side tanks, so the return looks to be 3" from the bottom, unlike the stocker which is in the bottom corner. Should pull the return up at least level with the bottom of the frame, maybe even a little higher. Also should be enough of a cooling system to allow for a v8 later on down the road.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/7347,34 ... Mopar.html

It's a good thing I already sold my SXs, because I'm burning through my 'new tire' budget to get this build done. Going to have to credit card the new tires, or run the bogglers clear into spring.

With nothing to do on the suspension, I decided to clearance the factory inner d60 axle yokes. I'm running yukon 35spline outers, and factory 35spline inners. The yukons are a bit thicker in the ear, so I had to grind a fair amount on the factory shafts to get the knuckles to full lock(never had full lock before).

So, nothing to take pics of from sunday.

[79chevy39.5's]

if you run the boggers for now you can get the 40" sx's which will be the new shiz..........did you have problems with the stock 30 spline outters? or did you just replace em to replacem

[oltmann]

I do like the sound of the 40SXs. I'm still hoping to get a set of the 42 rockers, but it doesn't sound like either tire will be available for a while. Might end up with Iroks after all, I do like the way both 39s and 42s seem to perform.

I was a little concerned about breaking the 30spline outers, because when they break they normally take out the spindle. The real issue was that my factory lockouts where not staying engaged. I could have picked up some ttb lockouts for cheap, but decided to do the upgrade to the 35spline outers. I think it was about 130 for flanges, and about 170 for shafts. That was a quite awhile ago, so the expense doesn't hurt as bad now.

[oltmann]

Weekend update. The bad weather delayed UPS, so no radiator to install. I worked on lots of little things. The only thing worth taking pictures of is the hydro ram mount.













Next up, cutting off brackets on the truss.

[79chevy39.5's]

awsome stuff man you already have a nice jeep that things gunna be awsome when your done with it (this go roud theyre never done)

[Paul]

Looks great, . I like the shackle mount.

Why did you angle the lower part of the mount (the part that connects to the axle tube)?