PEAK PUTTERS

Does anyone know if my D35 driveshaft will bolt onto a D44 axle? Do I need to get different u-joints? Is there a difference between the Rubi D44 u-joint and a TJ D44 u-joint?

Pretty sure the u-joints are different (took 'em two tries to get it right for me last time.)

iaccocca wrote:Pretty sure the u-joints are different (took 'em two tries to get it right for me last time.)

Do you remember what size you ended up with?

Aren't the rubi axles flanged rather than yoked?

White trash wrote:Aren't the rubi axles flanged rather than yoked?

Are they? I guess that is part of what I am asking.

Flanged at the t-case, yoke at the axle (if I understand the question.)

iaccocca wrote:Flanged at the t-case, yoke at the axle (if I understand the question.)

Ahh I knew they got rid of the slipyoke somehow.

Yeah, that part I know. I will be doing a SYE and driveshaft later, after my wallet recovers. Is there a way to make my crappy slip yoke driveshaft work with the new axle for a while until I can get it done. I know the part about the D44 housing being a bit longer, but with my lift the slip yoke should be ok. It's the other end I am wondering about.

5-153x is listed for all of them other than double cardan and axle shaft.

Lee I don't know what kinda parts guy you are used to dealing with but you need to find a new one..

White trash wrote:5-153x is listed for all of them other than double cardan and axle shaft.

Lee I don't know what kinda parts guy you are used to dealing with but you need to find a new one..

I'm used to dealing with me. 20 year parts guy, mostly manager, but I was relying on someone else on this one.

See what happens when you rely on a shmuk that doesn't know jack? I'm a book guy computers are for tards that can't hack it and quick day to day parts only.

Ok, I think I got it. A 1310/1330 conversion u-joint is what I think I need. If I have enough lift, which I have read that I do, the stock drive shaft will not be too long and jam at the slip yoke. One of the problems of a stock slip yoke is that the driveshaft can pop out of the transfer case with extreme flexing on a lifted Jeep.
Does that sound right???????

Yup and because slip yokes are for cars...


Are you going to upgrade the t case later? If you are I'd just get a hack and tap from AA. If you are going to keep the 231 get the super short HD.

I'll be keeping the 231. The axle I bought is geared at 4.88. I was hoping to save a couple dollars since I have to buy matching gears for the front now.

The plan is a HD super short SYE...plus a driveshaft.....plus adj rear upper control arms + + + + + +

I put one of these in years ago and have never thought about it again!
And thats with 37"s

http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?cPath=37_42_949&products_id=153

TJDave wrote:I'll be keeping the 231. The axle I bought is geared at 4.88. I was hoping to save a couple dollars since I have to buy matching gears for the front now.

The plan is a HD super short SYE...plus a driveshaft.....plus adj rear upper control arms + + + + + +

Save a few bucks now or spend a bunch later.. Gusseting on the housing to keep it straight and the control arm mounts need to be reinforced... If you saw how easily they rip off you'd understand why I say this..


Adjustable arms are no biggy and the shaft is simple too. Talk to John about a xj shaft or pretty much any half ton solid axle GM front shaft to get what you need then have it shortened to fit.

White trash wrote:
Save a few bucks now or spend a bunch later.. Gusseting on the housing to keep it straight and the control arm mounts need to be reinforced... If you saw how easily they rip off you'd understand why I say this..

Adjustable arms are no biggy and the shaft is simple too. Talk to John about a xj shaft or pretty much any half ton solid axle GM front shaft to get what you need then have it shortened to fit.

That is good to know. This axle has aftermarket heavy duty control arm mounts, track bar mount, shock mounts, 35 spline alloys, 4.88's, and a new ARB. It is even trussed. I can't wait to get it in there.

TJDave wrote:
That is good to know. This axle has aftermarket heavy duty control arm mounts, track bar mount, shock mounts, 33 spline alloys, 4.88's, and a new ARB. It is even trussed. I can't wait to get it in there.

Fixed..

Sounds like it's a decent start to a good axle. Is it a rubi or tj 44 or something else?

White trash wrote:

TJDave wrote:
That is good to know. This axle has aftermarket heavy duty control arm mounts, track bar mount, shock mounts, 33 spline alloys, 4.88's, and a new ARB. It is even trussed. I can't wait to get it in there.

Fixed..

Sounds like it's a decent start to a good axle. Is it a rubi or tj 44 or something else?

Trashy, they do make 35 spline upgrade axles and lockers.
Check out your favorite vendor...

http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddetail.php?prod=TEN-BIGSPLINE44

iaccocca wrote:

White trash wrote:5-153x is listed for all of them other than double cardan and axle shaft.

Lee I don't know what kinda parts guy you are used to dealing with but you need to find a new one..

I'm used to dealing with me. 20 year parts guy, mostly manager, but I was relying on someone else on this one.

Ok, help me out here Trash... 5-153x =1310. Right? The Rubi uses a 1330.
[Ready to stand corrected.]

iaccocca wrote:

White trash wrote:Sounds like it's a decent start to a good axle. Is it a rubi or tj 44 or something else?

Trashy, they do make 35 spline upgrade axles and lockers.
Check out your favorite vendor...

http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddetail.php?prod=TEN-BIGSPLINE44

Yes, it has the 35 spline alloy axles and ARB locker.

It is out of TJ Rubi Unlimited.

Yep, you can upgrade to 35 spline axles, but you have to do the axles and the carrier. ARBs and Detroits are available in 35 spline flavor, I do not know what else.

Wow last I heard they didn't make 35 spline stuff because it forced them to take off too much material from the side gears.... I indeed stand corrected.


So the rubi has 1330 and the rest has 1310. Makes sense, to bad the 1330 joints are sort of a orphan to ferds and apparently yeep..


Dang I'm out of the loop on this yeep stuff, someone ask me a yota question so I can redeem myself..

White trash wrote:Wow last I heard they didn't make 35 spline stuff because it forced them to take off too much material from the side gears.... I indeed stand corrected.


So the rubi has 1330 and the rest has 1310. Makes sense, to bad the 1330 joints are sort of a orphan to ferds and apparently yeep..


Dang I'm out of the loop on this yeep stuff, someone ask me a yota question so I can redeem myself..

I just talked to him. I guess the Rubi has a 1310 u joint that matches my stock driveshaft. But, it is 1" longer than the D35. I may have to have my shaft shortened a bit to get me by until I can afford the SYE.

Not sure about a rubi 44 but a TJ 44 bolts right up to a stock D35 driveshaft u joints and all, at least it did for me.