My jeep
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CopenhagenCowboy
- Posts: 257
- Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 4:00 pm
- Location: Kennewick WA
My jeep
needs a new to bearing and clutch. i bought the bearing, and wrench was kind enough to donate a clutch to me. But in order to drop my tranny i need to remove my cross member. Here's where the problem starts, all the nuts inside of my frame that the bolts for the cross member go to have broken free. and when i lifted my jeep i needed to drop the tcase a few inches to compensate for the drive line angle. well what id like to do is remove the cross member and trash the stupid spacers drop the tranny replace the broken stuff then weld the cross member back to its original position. but this would destroy my drive shaft angle, sooo i was thinking about doing a cv drive shaft so it would all work well. but the crappy thing is in order to fix my to bearing and clutch i have to deal with all this extra crap. idk if im making a mountain out of a mole hill here but i miss my jeep dearly and would love any advice or help anyone has to offer.
"a road is merely a suggestion" "Your ricers not so fast with a Jeep on it" "When was the last time you got an adrenaline rush at 3mph?" "Jeeps dont leak, they just mark their territory"
You best option:
Unlift your jeep so it is 2.5" over stock or LESS. If you have your stock leaf pack lying around, use the top couple of leaves from your lifted pack and the rest of the pack from the stocker. Then trim sheetmetal to fit the tires, repair the frame inserts and bolt everything back in the stock locations after you replace your clutch.
On my CJ7, I have a MUCH longer drivetrain than you do (AX15 5 speed from a TJ) and I run 35s with a 2.5" lift with zero driveshaft issues. I had lifted it another 1.5" or so and ended up with driveshaft issues before it got out of the driveway. My driveshaft is only 20" long total AND I RAISED my tcase 4.5" and have a completely flat belly under the frame rails. No problemo. . .
Repairing the frame inserts: Punch them out so that they are out of the way, then fish the correct size grade 8 BOLTS with SAE (SAE washers are smaller) flat washers through the holes through the very small access holes in the inside of the frame. It will be a BITCH, but be patient. Now, you have "studs" hanging down. You can use flat washers with LOCK WASHERS and standard nuts. In this rare case, don't use lock nuts because they are too hard to tighten. As long as you keep downward pressure on the crossmember while you are tightening it, it will tighten up without a wrench on the bolt head. If you feel I use red locktite on mine. The biggest trick to this is to be very, very patient and don't get frustrated. You'll probably want to try and clean out the 20 years of dirt out of the inside of the frame rails also. A long screwdriver is a good place to start.
Now, there are other ways to do this, but lowering your Jeep will be the first step to keeping you alive when you go to the hills with us. You are simply too tall. I would feel very uncomfortable having you in a group of us at Rimrock or even at Naches the way you sit now.
Yeah, you could "try" a CV driveshaft, but you need a CV TCase yoke and to rotate your rear axle upward (shims or reweld spring perches). You could also try a motor mount lift to point the TCase down a little in combination with the CV shaft like the YJ/TJ guys do. . .but again, not good. Tom Woods makes offset 1310 u-joints that would fix the angularity, but they will vibrate a little on the freeway. . .you could stretch the wheelbase by 6". . .many options.
Unlift your jeep so it is 2.5" over stock or LESS. If you have your stock leaf pack lying around, use the top couple of leaves from your lifted pack and the rest of the pack from the stocker. Then trim sheetmetal to fit the tires, repair the frame inserts and bolt everything back in the stock locations after you replace your clutch.
On my CJ7, I have a MUCH longer drivetrain than you do (AX15 5 speed from a TJ) and I run 35s with a 2.5" lift with zero driveshaft issues. I had lifted it another 1.5" or so and ended up with driveshaft issues before it got out of the driveway. My driveshaft is only 20" long total AND I RAISED my tcase 4.5" and have a completely flat belly under the frame rails. No problemo. . .
Repairing the frame inserts: Punch them out so that they are out of the way, then fish the correct size grade 8 BOLTS with SAE (SAE washers are smaller) flat washers through the holes through the very small access holes in the inside of the frame. It will be a BITCH, but be patient. Now, you have "studs" hanging down. You can use flat washers with LOCK WASHERS and standard nuts. In this rare case, don't use lock nuts because they are too hard to tighten. As long as you keep downward pressure on the crossmember while you are tightening it, it will tighten up without a wrench on the bolt head. If you feel I use red locktite on mine. The biggest trick to this is to be very, very patient and don't get frustrated. You'll probably want to try and clean out the 20 years of dirt out of the inside of the frame rails also. A long screwdriver is a good place to start.
Now, there are other ways to do this, but lowering your Jeep will be the first step to keeping you alive when you go to the hills with us. You are simply too tall. I would feel very uncomfortable having you in a group of us at Rimrock or even at Naches the way you sit now.
Yeah, you could "try" a CV driveshaft, but you need a CV TCase yoke and to rotate your rear axle upward (shims or reweld spring perches). You could also try a motor mount lift to point the TCase down a little in combination with the CV shaft like the YJ/TJ guys do. . .but again, not good. Tom Woods makes offset 1310 u-joints that would fix the angularity, but they will vibrate a little on the freeway. . .you could stretch the wheelbase by 6". . .many options.
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CopenhagenCowboy
- Posts: 257
- Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 4:00 pm
- Location: Kennewick WA
ok, thank you so much for all the info. i think im going to just try to get the new to bearing and clutch in so i can drive the jeep for the summer, then when i get some cash saved up i can start tearin it apart. and i do agree with the height thing, i do intend to lower it. my 1 year goal is to swap axles to 44s and new tires, probly 37s. im not sure if i would need to lift it again with those tires tho.
"a road is merely a suggestion" "Your ricers not so fast with a Jeep on it" "When was the last time you got an adrenaline rush at 3mph?" "Jeeps dont leak, they just mark their territory"
you can run 37s with very little lift if you are good with a body saw.
37s, in my opinion are the max tire size on a short wheel base Jeep. I tend to think that 35s are perfect. . .35s on Waggy D44s on 2.5" lift w/trimmed sheetmetal. . .all good brother. . .all good. Plus, the price differential between 35s and 37s is HUGE. Anything bigger is for pure rock crawlers and mud boggers. . .no need on the trail. It just makes it boring. . .or scary on the side hills. . .
Shoot for +/- 72" to 74" from the ground to the top of the windshield. . .or less. Mine is 72" but I'm so wide that I am almost never tippy. . .
37s, in my opinion are the max tire size on a short wheel base Jeep. I tend to think that 35s are perfect. . .35s on Waggy D44s on 2.5" lift w/trimmed sheetmetal. . .all good brother. . .all good. Plus, the price differential between 35s and 37s is HUGE. Anything bigger is for pure rock crawlers and mud boggers. . .no need on the trail. It just makes it boring. . .or scary on the side hills. . .
Shoot for +/- 72" to 74" from the ground to the top of the windshield. . .or less. Mine is 72" but I'm so wide that I am almost never tippy. . .
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CopenhagenCowboy
- Posts: 257
- Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 4:00 pm
- Location: Kennewick WA
ok, i just really dont want ogle to out do me. lol and 35 is the new 33 everyone and their dog has 35s. so i wanna step up. width wise would wheel spacers help the tippy thing? or is it not worth it? and i want 44s so i can lock em up, i feel like it would be a waste locking an amc 20 and dana 30
"a road is merely a suggestion" "Your ricers not so fast with a Jeep on it" "When was the last time you got an adrenaline rush at 3mph?" "Jeeps dont leak, they just mark their territory"
Well. . .here's the dealio. . .
Wheelin' is one area where it has very little to do with the size of your. . .uh. . .tires. . .but more what you do with them.
Yeah, don't lock the Dana 30 with ANY tire over 32". The AMC 20 is a great axle and actually at least as strong as a D44 if you put in one piece axles and do a little truss. . .but it is very narrow.
Now, as far as outdoing the Ogle's of the World: It is about what you can drive over, not what it looks like parked on the curb. The absolute number one problem with people learning to wheel is that they get caught up on what the "hot" setup is and don't spend enough time learning how to DRIVE. So, the secret is to find one of the guys that has been around for a long time that just BAFFLEs everyone and figure out how he takes his 40 year old leaf sprung, carbed heep over terrain that stumps all of the yota kids, Rubiclones, and noobs. Trust me, if you want to be "one up", the best way to do it is to appear to be LESS set up but still spank his a$$ on a daily basis. I personally can teach you one trick that will make you look like a hero. . .but it won't be online because it is just between us Jeep guys. . .
Wheelin' is one area where it has very little to do with the size of your. . .uh. . .tires. . .but more what you do with them.
Yeah, don't lock the Dana 30 with ANY tire over 32". The AMC 20 is a great axle and actually at least as strong as a D44 if you put in one piece axles and do a little truss. . .but it is very narrow.
Now, as far as outdoing the Ogle's of the World: It is about what you can drive over, not what it looks like parked on the curb. The absolute number one problem with people learning to wheel is that they get caught up on what the "hot" setup is and don't spend enough time learning how to DRIVE. So, the secret is to find one of the guys that has been around for a long time that just BAFFLEs everyone and figure out how he takes his 40 year old leaf sprung, carbed heep over terrain that stumps all of the yota kids, Rubiclones, and noobs. Trust me, if you want to be "one up", the best way to do it is to appear to be LESS set up but still spank his a$$ on a daily basis. I personally can teach you one trick that will make you look like a hero. . .but it won't be online because it is just between us Jeep guys. . .
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White trash
- Posts: 1763
- Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:38 pm
- Location: El Pasco
Good advice as usual OG. I'd cut holes on the inside of the frame and use 1 1/2x1/4" box tube welded in there to keep the frame strong and make accessing the nuts a breeze. I'd also run carriage bolts up from the bottom so you have one less thing to get caught on.
I have a cv yoke for a 300 you're welcome to it. A 1310 cv shaft is easy to find, f 150's. chevy trucks, full sized Jeeps, xj's pretty much every US auto maker has used them.
Oh yea, get a set of mj rear springs and put them in mixed with your rear springs to get the tail down and improve the horrid shackle angle.
I have a cv yoke for a 300 you're welcome to it. A 1310 cv shaft is easy to find, f 150's. chevy trucks, full sized Jeeps, xj's pretty much every US auto maker has used them.
Oh yea, get a set of mj rear springs and put them in mixed with your rear springs to get the tail down and improve the horrid shackle angle.
This thread should be required reading. Reminds me of thinking I was a big boy because I was follwing Roy and his Jeepster everywhere in the 'deep' snow and 'sidehills' for three miles and then he got out and locked his hubs.
Okay, we're a little crazy to have a Duramax for a daily driver. But if we go off our meds, we might wind up in a Prius.
If you want to hear God laugh, tell Him your plans.
N7EEL WROD249
If you want to hear God laugh, tell Him your plans.
N7EEL WROD249
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CopenhagenCowboy
- Posts: 257
- Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 4:00 pm
- Location: Kennewick WA
iaccocca wrote:This thread should be required reading. Reminds me of thinking I was a big boy because I was follwing Roy and his Jeepster everywhere in the 'deep' snow and 'sidehills' for three miles and then he got out and locked his hubs.
Yeah, I'm a total badass when he's not along. . .or Curtis. . .or any of the "old" guys. . .experience and talent have a way of humbling the rest of us.
White trash wrote:Good advice as usual OG. I'd cut holes on the inside of the frame and use 1 1/2x1/4" box tube welded in there to keep the frame strong and make accessing the nuts a breeze. I'd also run carriage bolts up from the bottom so you have one less thing to get caught on.
I have a cv yoke for a 300 you're welcome to it. A 1310 cv shaft is easy to find, f 150's. chevy trucks, full sized Jeeps, xj's pretty much every US auto maker has used them.
Oh yea, get a set of mj rear springs and put them in mixed with your rear springs to get the tail down and improve the horrid shackle angle.
Yeah, this is good stuff too. I like the idea of access holes. On V2.0 of my skidplate, I'm going that way. The other way that works well is to make a custom skidplate that wraps around the outside of the frame and uses sleeved holes through the side of the frame like the Rubicon Express TJ skidplates do.
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Wrench
- Peak Putters Member
- Posts: 1237
- Joined: Sat May 30, 2009 7:23 am
- Location: in a van down by the river
CopenhagenCowboy wrote:ok, i just really dont want ogle to out do me. lol and 35 is the new 33 everyone and their dog has 35s. so i wanna step up. width wise would wheel spacers help the tippy thing? or is it not worth it? and i want 44s so i can lock em up, i feel like it would be a waste locking an amc 20 and dana 30
Take that thing to the mountains and you will have a totally new perspective on what is really works and what doesn't. If I were you, I would stick with the 35's until you have worn them out. By then, you should REALLY know what you want and it'll save you alot of cash.
Paul
'84 XJ, '19JL
'84 XJ, '19JL
Wrench wrote:CopenhagenCowboy wrote:ok, i just really dont want ogle to out do me. lol and 35 is the new 33 everyone and their dog has 35s. so i wanna step up. width wise would wheel spacers help the tippy thing? or is it not worth it? and i want 44s so i can lock em up, i feel like it would be a waste locking an amc 20 and dana 30
Take that thing to the mountains and you will have a totally new perspective on what is really works and what doesn't. If I were you, I would stick with the 35's until you have worn them out. By then, you should REALLY know what you want and it'll save you alot of cash.
Spoken by a man that has been to the mountaintop...
Okay, we're a little crazy to have a Duramax for a daily driver. But if we go off our meds, we might wind up in a Prius.
If you want to hear God laugh, tell Him your plans.
N7EEL WROD249
If you want to hear God laugh, tell Him your plans.
N7EEL WROD249
New (and pretty solid 
) TCase drop is in. Clutch is in along with the CORRECT pilot bush.
Also, just so this is all well documented.
1. CC has decided to lower the Jeep via some spring pack mods.
2. OG has noted that if the tranny ever has any issue at all that it is best to remove it and recycle it in favor of something like an AX15 (Current tranny is a steaming pile of T4).
Yes, I do have some second degree burns. . .but that's all in good fun.
) TCase drop is in. Clutch is in along with the CORRECT pilot bush.
Also, just so this is all well documented.
1. CC has decided to lower the Jeep via some spring pack mods.
2. OG has noted that if the tranny ever has any issue at all that it is best to remove it and recycle it in favor of something like an AX15 (Current tranny is a steaming pile of T4).
Yes, I do have some second degree burns. . .but that's all in good fun.
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CopenhagenCowboy
- Posts: 257
- Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 4:00 pm
- Location: Kennewick WA
Yeah I'm kinda enjoying bein able to drive it. But I'm planning on moving my rear shackle mounts towards the front a few inches to fix the angle, as well as pull a leaf from the front packs. Idk what I'm gonna do to lower the a$$ end yet because the back packs only have 4 leafs vs the front 5. Thanks for the help og. Its runnin great, aside from all the vibration from the firewall. Lol
"a road is merely a suggestion" "Your ricers not so fast with a Jeep on it" "When was the last time you got an adrenaline rush at 3mph?" "Jeeps dont leak, they just mark their territory"
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CopenhagenCowboy
- Posts: 257
- Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 4:00 pm
- Location: Kennewick WA
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CopenhagenCowboy
- Posts: 257
- Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 4:00 pm
- Location: Kennewick WA
My headlights aren't working. They both just don't work. Idk what the problem is. I had every light working now the only one that works is my driver side running light. Lol what do I do? They are all grounded and plugged in. But I couldn't find a fuse for headlights.
"a road is merely a suggestion" "Your ricers not so fast with a Jeep on it" "When was the last time you got an adrenaline rush at 3mph?" "Jeeps dont leak, they just mark their territory"
Check email. . .it is probably the switch.
Quick check for a CJ is to turn on the lights and hit the hi beams and see if they work. If they do and the low beams don't, then your dimmer switch on the floor is toast. Otherwise, it is likely the switch itself. CJs don't use relays for the headlights, everything is full power through the switch.
Quick check for a CJ is to turn on the lights and hit the hi beams and see if they work. If they do and the low beams don't, then your dimmer switch on the floor is toast. Otherwise, it is likely the switch itself. CJs don't use relays for the headlights, everything is full power through the switch.
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