Page 6 of 6
Posted: Tue May 28, 2013 10:29 am
by Grumpy
May look at putting small stops on the shifter I have to keep from knocking it out of the notch I want it in, and going with a standard rebuild...
Posted: Tue May 28, 2013 11:20 am
by Lurch
You can manually shift an auto but you can't automatically shift a manual. The only reason I went full manual is cause I had to with the dual case settup. Any other option would have made it too long.
Grumpy you are the king of over thinking. Just get the thing moving and worry about upgrades later.
Posted: Tue May 28, 2013 12:10 pm
by Grumpy
"Grumpy you are the king of over thinking. Just get the thing moving and worry about upgrades later."
Want some of this done before hand, so i don't have to take it apart later
Posted: Tue May 28, 2013 2:14 pm
by OldGreen
reverse manual valve body in an off-road rig is GREAT for a number of reasons:
1. You can start in any gear
2. If you get the right valve body, you can use compression braking
3. You can "rock" the rig (1R1R1R)
4. You can "hold" a gear. Most full auto trannies will force an upshift at some point.
5. Shifting is FUN
6. No kickdown to mess with (vac or cable or linkage). SIMPLE
The downside is that you have to shift. However. . .see #5. Since there is no clutch or lifting the gas, you can still maintain all the momentum. . .etc.
Posted: Tue May 28, 2013 2:36 pm
by 79chevy39.5's
my t350 will get a fmrvb and a winters shifter (old art carr) at some point and i think that rig will have the same uses as your
Posted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 9:19 am
by mattawajeep
Hey Grumpy, is this what your pan looks like?
I went out to pull the pan, but it seems like it's a lot wider than yours. Did a quick search on google and it looks like the IH 727's might have a different shape.
Posted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 10:52 am
by Grumpy
I'll look in a bit if I can convince my foot to cooperate
Posted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 10:42 am
by Grumpy
Hate to say it, but this project may be on indefinite hold dictated by circumstances I'll not discuss here. As Lance says, "life changes things".
Posted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 10:22 pm
by mattawajeep
That's too bad, I thought you were close.
Re: Finally Went And Done It...
Posted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 9:06 pm
by Grumpy
Risen from the dead
Re: Finally Went And Done It...
Posted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 5:41 pm
by tobyw
Grumpy wrote:Risen from the dead
You or the 'Binder?!
Re: Finally Went And Done It...
Posted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 8:23 pm
by Grumpy
Maybe...
Re: Finally Went And Done It...
Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 10:54 am
by Grumpy
To refresh:
SpeediSleeves for ends of crank
T-case seals and gaskets; In the flat box
Shift cable: If the one I have isn't usable
Dowel pins
Kickdown cable
Engine and trans mounts
Hoses and belts
Plugs, points, etc
The usual misc. nuts, bolts, and scews
Re: Finally Went And Done It...
Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 12:19 pm
by Grumpy
Battery: $120
Hoses: $95.00/IHPA (Hoses/gskt/t-stat)
Dist. (If needed): $184.00 (AZ)
Points - NAPA ECH CS786 $21.40 (Delco)
Condenser - NAPA ECH RR176 $8.37 (Delco)
Cap - NAPA ECH RR165 $17.55 (Delco)
Rotor - ECH RR169R $7.83 (Delco)
Wires: $22.50 - NAPA #BEL700126
Plugs: $16.00 - Autolite Copper #303
Oil filter: $10.00 - NAPA #FIL1049
Oil: $10.00 qt (Swepco 306 high zinc)
Fuel filter: $3.00 - NAPA #SFI23002
Starter spacer: $30.00 (IHPA)
Belts: Fan/Alt - NBH257603 (2) $21.15 / Steering - NBH259440 (1) $16.20
Now, about that oil with zinc content enough to work in this old crock. It apparently needs .11%, so here's what works:
10W-30
AMSOIL (old) none
AMSOIL (new) none
Castrol GTX .12
Chevron Supreme .11
Exxon Superflo Hi Perf 135 .11
Exxon Superflo Supreme 133 .13
Havoline Formula 3 none
Kendall GT-1 .16
Mobil 1 none
Pennzoil PLZ Turbo none
Quaker State none
Red Line none
Shell Fire and Ice .12
Shell Super 2000 .13
Shell Truck Guard .15
Spectro Golden M.G. none
Unocal Super .12
Valvoline All Climate .11
Valvoline Turbo .13
Valvoline Race .20
Valvoline Synthetic .12
Re: Finally Went And Done It...
Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 12:41 pm
by Grumpy
Re: Finally Went And Done It...
Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 1:18 pm
by Grumpy
DOWEL PINS
For head and bell housing NAPA / Belkamp part # 600-1618 (8) Dowel Pins
Cylinder Block Dowel Pin I.D. : 0.562"
Cylinder Block Dowel Pin Length : 0.625"
Cylinder Block Dowel Pin O.D. : 0.625"
Location : Head to Block
Manufacturer : Pioneer Automotive
Manufacturer Part Number : PX-238
OEM # : 133452-R1
Type : Split
Re: Finally Went And Done It...
Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 4:01 pm
by Grumpy
Scout II headlight switch from autozone,
duralast
sw141
it wont come up for a Scout just give them the part number the one for a Scout is special order but this one is direct replacement and should be in stock
neutral safety switch for Scout II, 727 transmission
@autozone - duralast CR401 (china made)
Re: Finally Went And Done It...
Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2016 12:19 pm
by Grumpy
Re: Finally Went And Done It...
Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 12:24 pm
by Grumpy
Now to figure out if the winch works, and a bunch of other stuff.
Re: Finally Went And Done It...
Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 2:43 pm
by TJDave
Recent picture...I think I was standing too close.
Re: Finally Went And Done It...
Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 3:52 pm
by Grumpy
Re: Finally Went And Done It...
Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 4:20 pm
by Grumpy
Who is our Warn 8274 expert? Never had my hands on one, so stumbling around blind. Yeah, printed out some info and will study on it.