I know the camera wasn't used nearly enuff so far, 'cause when we took the old axles off, it was comical! So let's get a thread going, Jim.
LG's build thread?
LG's build thread?
So OG (Old Green) is massing parts for LG's (Little Green) first rig, the sam-zuk-buggie. But where are the pic's?
I know the camera wasn't used nearly enuff so far, 'cause when we took the old axles off, it was comical! So let's get a thread going, Jim.
I know the camera wasn't used nearly enuff so far, 'cause when we took the old axles off, it was comical! So let's get a thread going, Jim.
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commando14
- Peak Putters Member
- Posts: 1211
- Joined: Sun Mar 11, 2007 3:37 pm
- Location: Kennewick, WA
Building will commence and be documented right here as soon as we're back from Darland. . .I am pouring all of my resources into the 7 until then so as to not miss the fun.
All of the drivetrain for will's rig is in the house. . .so here's what it will be:
Samurai Frame and axles
Toyota 22RE Motor
W58 2wd Tranny
Sami 4.16:1 TCase
Wrangler 2.5" lift springs. . .spring under
84" Wheelbase
From there, plastic buckets, stripped down interior, very little sheet metal, 31x10.50 Radial Mud tires and high dollar shocks. I might even do a front swaybar depending on how it handles at speed. . .
All of the drivetrain for will's rig is in the house. . .so here's what it will be:
Samurai Frame and axles
Toyota 22RE Motor
W58 2wd Tranny
Sami 4.16:1 TCase
Wrangler 2.5" lift springs. . .spring under
84" Wheelbase
From there, plastic buckets, stripped down interior, very little sheet metal, 31x10.50 Radial Mud tires and high dollar shocks. I might even do a front swaybar depending on how it handles at speed. . .
I got something. . .
1. Axles are mounted. Wheelbase is around 85" on YJ 2.5" lift springs, spring under. I am going to remove the shackle reversal before I get to the point where I need drivelines and such. It really HANGs down badly in the front. Easy to remove though. I am also going to grind/clean up all of the welds on the shackle hangers. It will be good practice for me.
2. Toyota 22RE is "sitting" in the engine compartment in it's aproximate location (good enough for measuring. The tranny mount lines up perfectly so I MIGHT be able to use the stock (ISH) TCase mounting position. The drivetrain is going to be 100% solid mounted to the frame using some plate and tube that I have laying around the house. This is a true "budget build).
3. Cage: I am only going to use the stock B-Hoop to build off of. The cage will be very angular. It will copy some of the lines of the new "ultra 4x4" class in WSORR. They make the entire chassis with ZERO BENDS. I really like that idea because I want to use 1.5" .095 tube. Bending it makes thin spots. I need to get a chop saw that will miter up to 45 degrees. Between that, the bench grinder, sawzall, and a 4" grinder, I should be able to cope and miter everything I need for the cage and tack it together with my little 110 welder so that someone.. .uh. . .Jose. . .can finish weld it for me. The cage will also support the seats and the front and rear "skins". The front passenger compartment and cowel will remain stockish so I can put doors on it if the mood strikes me (and Will). I also am going to tie in the stock heater core so we can use it on the FYBR in 2009. The downside to my design (still in my head) is that I am going to loose a little departure angle, but it may get a couple of bends or rolls in the rear to "boat tail" it.
4. The devil is in the details. Retrofitting the hydro clutch, the wiring harness and the fuel system is going to be challenging, but fun. We are also going to do power steering and OBA (pumps already on the motor). I may do yota IFS steering or maybe a saginaw box out of a grand cherokee. I want cheap or free so anything that mounts INSIDE the frame would work and I would like it to have a decently long pitman arm for a good speed ratio.
Specs:
1988 Samurai frame/Passenger Compartment
1984 Toyota Celica 22RE and W48 Transmission
Samurai Transfer Case with 4.16:1 Low and additional high range reduction (can't remember the exact amount)
Samurai axles w/ 3.72 gears, welded (to be trussed as well)
YJ Springs w/ 2.5" lift. I will find some used fox/king/SAW shocks 10"/resivoirs.
65" wide, 69" tall and 85" wheelbase.
Purpose: Father/Son project. Will is learning the metric system, righty tighty, fractions, gears, cuss words, etc. We will be spending at least one evening and/or week night per week working on it until it is done from this point forward. When it is done, He's going to learn to drive the wheels off of it. Children have great hand/eye coordination and very little fear. I want him and Jessy to learn to drive quickly and precisely long before their 16th birthdays
Garage is almost done getting ready for the build so we can work on it from NOW on. Pics to follow.
Anyone who has stuff free or cheap that would be. . I dunno. . .a fuel pump, power steering box, NICE seats (have Jose's YJ seats, but I hate to cut holes in them for harnesses) or anything else that might help with the project, let me know. The goal is to keep the ENTIRE build to under $2K. So far, I'm about 1K into it including the chassis and the entire drivetrain. Tube and Tires are going to be the most expensive parts. Unless I can find some good 31" radials with OVER 75% tread, I am going to buy new. I MAY use some contacts and get some 285/75R16 MT/Rs, but they are honestly a little big for the sami axles. The 31s will LIVE.
PIcs. . .HMMMMM> > >I'll snap a few tomorrow. It isn't much to look at just yet with all of the parts just piled on it.
1. Axles are mounted. Wheelbase is around 85" on YJ 2.5" lift springs, spring under. I am going to remove the shackle reversal before I get to the point where I need drivelines and such. It really HANGs down badly in the front. Easy to remove though. I am also going to grind/clean up all of the welds on the shackle hangers. It will be good practice for me.
2. Toyota 22RE is "sitting" in the engine compartment in it's aproximate location (good enough for measuring. The tranny mount lines up perfectly so I MIGHT be able to use the stock (ISH) TCase mounting position. The drivetrain is going to be 100% solid mounted to the frame using some plate and tube that I have laying around the house. This is a true "budget build).
3. Cage: I am only going to use the stock B-Hoop to build off of. The cage will be very angular. It will copy some of the lines of the new "ultra 4x4" class in WSORR. They make the entire chassis with ZERO BENDS. I really like that idea because I want to use 1.5" .095 tube. Bending it makes thin spots. I need to get a chop saw that will miter up to 45 degrees. Between that, the bench grinder, sawzall, and a 4" grinder, I should be able to cope and miter everything I need for the cage and tack it together with my little 110 welder so that someone.. .uh. . .Jose. . .can finish weld it for me. The cage will also support the seats and the front and rear "skins". The front passenger compartment and cowel will remain stockish so I can put doors on it if the mood strikes me (and Will). I also am going to tie in the stock heater core so we can use it on the FYBR in 2009. The downside to my design (still in my head) is that I am going to loose a little departure angle, but it may get a couple of bends or rolls in the rear to "boat tail" it.
4. The devil is in the details. Retrofitting the hydro clutch, the wiring harness and the fuel system is going to be challenging, but fun. We are also going to do power steering and OBA (pumps already on the motor). I may do yota IFS steering or maybe a saginaw box out of a grand cherokee. I want cheap or free so anything that mounts INSIDE the frame would work and I would like it to have a decently long pitman arm for a good speed ratio.
Specs:
1988 Samurai frame/Passenger Compartment
1984 Toyota Celica 22RE and W48 Transmission
Samurai Transfer Case with 4.16:1 Low and additional high range reduction (can't remember the exact amount)
Samurai axles w/ 3.72 gears, welded (to be trussed as well)
YJ Springs w/ 2.5" lift. I will find some used fox/king/SAW shocks 10"/resivoirs.
65" wide, 69" tall and 85" wheelbase.
Purpose: Father/Son project. Will is learning the metric system, righty tighty, fractions, gears, cuss words, etc. We will be spending at least one evening and/or week night per week working on it until it is done from this point forward. When it is done, He's going to learn to drive the wheels off of it. Children have great hand/eye coordination and very little fear. I want him and Jessy to learn to drive quickly and precisely long before their 16th birthdays
Garage is almost done getting ready for the build so we can work on it from NOW on. Pics to follow.
Anyone who has stuff free or cheap that would be. . I dunno. . .a fuel pump, power steering box, NICE seats (have Jose's YJ seats, but I hate to cut holes in them for harnesses) or anything else that might help with the project, let me know. The goal is to keep the ENTIRE build to under $2K. So far, I'm about 1K into it including the chassis and the entire drivetrain. Tube and Tires are going to be the most expensive parts. Unless I can find some good 31" radials with OVER 75% tread, I am going to buy new. I MAY use some contacts and get some 285/75R16 MT/Rs, but they are honestly a little big for the sami axles. The 31s will LIVE.
PIcs. . .HMMMMM> > >I'll snap a few tomorrow. It isn't much to look at just yet with all of the parts just piled on it.
tonight. . .I am a proud papa. . .
I CLOSELY supervised will in sawzalling off the old stinger. Wouldn't ya know it, it turned out to be the one thing that was actually made of tubing and not pipe so it will get recycled into mounts for the drivetrain along with some 3/16" plate and bar that I have laying around.
Will is officially in love with the reciprocating saw so we're chompin' at the bit to do more.
Next is motor mounts. . .
The plan is for two sections of 1.25"x.120 tube into a couple of strips of 3/16 plate. One side will weld to the frame and the other side will bolt to the engine stands. The whole works is located front to rear off of the tranny mount and "should" be close to center between the rails side to side. I "may" have to modify the tranny mount for verticle alignment, but the holes actually line up. It might be that I just replace the rubber with a couple of homemade pucks. I'll take pics of the motor mount progress tomorrow. Tonight, we will be prepping the race truck.
I CLOSELY supervised will in sawzalling off the old stinger. Wouldn't ya know it, it turned out to be the one thing that was actually made of tubing and not pipe so it will get recycled into mounts for the drivetrain along with some 3/16" plate and bar that I have laying around.
Will is officially in love with the reciprocating saw so we're chompin' at the bit to do more.
Next is motor mounts. . .
The plan is for two sections of 1.25"x.120 tube into a couple of strips of 3/16 plate. One side will weld to the frame and the other side will bolt to the engine stands. The whole works is located front to rear off of the tranny mount and "should" be close to center between the rails side to side. I "may" have to modify the tranny mount for verticle alignment, but the holes actually line up. It might be that I just replace the rubber with a couple of homemade pucks. I'll take pics of the motor mount progress tomorrow. Tonight, we will be prepping the race truck.
It's really good that you are doing this with him. Looking back 50 years or so 
the only good times I have to remember about my father were the few times that he spent some time with me hunting. Would have been nice if there were more of them, but at least I have those memories. 
the only good times I have to remember about my father were the few times that he spent some time with me hunting. Would have been nice if there were more of them, but at least I have those memories. 90 MJ, 5.5" RE Long arm
88 yota p/u
88 yota p/u
Yeah, he is still at the age that he needs to be DOING something all the time so it is tough will there is fab work, but he helps tons with the wrenching. I have a lot of good memories under the Jeep. . .but I still prefer the time spent behind the wheel!!!
Tonight, I burned in the tranny mount and the motor mounts. After I get the TCase figured out, I'll pull the whole drivetrain, and do some grinding and re-welding. It is pretty cool that it is sitting there with the engine and tranny IN without anything holding it up. I
Good news. . even spring under, it appears to have almost 7" of up travel in the front. before I pull the motor again, I'll measure the total travel. I also sent an email to the guy on PBB that has a set of Terra Tires for sale here in WA. Fingers crossed!! Also, Poppy gave me a set of 15x10 wheels that I am going to test fit. It just may work out that they go on the CJ7 and the stazworks double beadlocks go on the Sami. . .naw. . .I guess not. . .the are WAY too heavy for the little feller.
Tonight, I burned in the tranny mount and the motor mounts. After I get the TCase figured out, I'll pull the whole drivetrain, and do some grinding and re-welding. It is pretty cool that it is sitting there with the engine and tranny IN without anything holding it up. I
Good news. . even spring under, it appears to have almost 7" of up travel in the front. before I pull the motor again, I'll measure the total travel. I also sent an email to the guy on PBB that has a set of Terra Tires for sale here in WA. Fingers crossed!! Also, Poppy gave me a set of 15x10 wheels that I am going to test fit. It just may work out that they go on the CJ7 and the stazworks double beadlocks go on the Sami. . .naw. . .I guess not. . .the are WAY too heavy for the little feller.
Now that the motor and tranny are all mounted up, we took to laying out the mounts for the TCase. As it turns out, the divorced sami t-case needs to be triangulated so it doesn't rock side to side or front to back on its mount. I can't use the factory mounts because the whole works is pushed back a few inches and the tranny is a slightly different height than the stocker.
Another issue: Sami T-Cases have strong gears, but weak cases. The mounting points on the aluminum case are prone to tearing right off. . so. . .a modification is in order. I'll see if I can get pictures later, but here is the idea:
For the PS mount, I will build a bracket out of 3/16" plate that captures the factory mounting holes as well as the output bearing retainer bolts for both the front and rear output housings. The output housings are 90 degrees from the mounting surface so the bracket will be a modified channel shape once it is done. ON the driver's side, the same thing will happen with the stock mounting surface, the PTO output plate and the input bearing retainer bolts. Then, the PS will be connected with tube to two frame side bushings and the DS will get one connection. Then, for added reinforcement, I will have one piece of tube bent up to connect the two sides together creating yet another cross member that will drop straight down. . then I can design a skid plate that will BOLT (caps for Jose) to the crossmember instead of being PART of it. . .like on my Jeep.
For those that want pictures. . .I'll see what I can do this week and take pictures of my templates. I may need some more Tube before I can do the actual mounts, but I can make the brakets and the frame side mounts now. Goal is to have the TCase mount done by the end of next week so I can measure for the jack shaft, get it build and then pull the drivetrain back out for final welding and painting of all the mounts. .. WHEW> > >
Will had fun bringing me tools, getting edumacated on how stuff works and we took breaks to practice our pop can bowling and dart throwing skills!!!
Another issue: Sami T-Cases have strong gears, but weak cases. The mounting points on the aluminum case are prone to tearing right off. . so. . .a modification is in order. I'll see if I can get pictures later, but here is the idea:
For the PS mount, I will build a bracket out of 3/16" plate that captures the factory mounting holes as well as the output bearing retainer bolts for both the front and rear output housings. The output housings are 90 degrees from the mounting surface so the bracket will be a modified channel shape once it is done. ON the driver's side, the same thing will happen with the stock mounting surface, the PTO output plate and the input bearing retainer bolts. Then, the PS will be connected with tube to two frame side bushings and the DS will get one connection. Then, for added reinforcement, I will have one piece of tube bent up to connect the two sides together creating yet another cross member that will drop straight down. . then I can design a skid plate that will BOLT (caps for Jose) to the crossmember instead of being PART of it. . .like on my Jeep.
For those that want pictures. . .I'll see what I can do this week and take pictures of my templates. I may need some more Tube before I can do the actual mounts, but I can make the brakets and the frame side mounts now. Goal is to have the TCase mount done by the end of next week so I can measure for the jack shaft, get it build and then pull the drivetrain back out for final welding and painting of all the mounts. .. WHEW> > >
Will had fun bringing me tools, getting edumacated on how stuff works and we took breaks to practice our pop can bowling and dart throwing skills!!!
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White trash
- Posts: 1763
- Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:38 pm
- Location: El Pasco
I know, huh. . .they are the size of toothpicks. . .buck toothed toothpicks, but toothpicks nonetheless
Maybe I'll run them until they break and then do yoters? Aren't Land Cruiser rearends offset to the PS? I guess I "could" do Waggy D44s, but then I'd be too wide and NOT LIGHT. . .LOL
Subaru CVs? LOL> > >OMG> > >that is soooo funny.
Link?
Maybe I'll run them until they break and then do yoters? Aren't Land Cruiser rearends offset to the PS? I guess I "could" do Waggy D44s, but then I'd be too wide and NOT LIGHT. . .LOL
Subaru CVs? LOL> > >OMG> > >that is soooo funny.
Link?
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White trash
- Posts: 1763
- Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:38 pm
- Location: El Pasco
Yes cruiser axles are offset just like the sami stuff. They also have a 9 1/4" ring gear.... I just so happen to know a guy with a set of them sitting on his shop floor taking up space.... He may also be pulling his rear 3rd with an arb in a few months too.... I'm sure boozer will cut you a good deal on the setup. 
I'll see if I can find a writeup on the subi stuff... I know Tim Hardy from 4 wheeler mag did it in his rig.... That dude is a wealth of sami knowledge.
I'll see if I can find a writeup on the subi stuff... I know Tim Hardy from 4 wheeler mag did it in his rig.... That dude is a wealth of sami knowledge.
Last edited by White trash on Mon Jan 12, 2009 5:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Toolegit86
- Posts: 421
- Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 8:56 am
Here is the Passenger side TX Case mount for the samurai. . .there will be two tubes mounting it to the frame with bushings. . .one on either side of the original mount. The driver's side will get one tube and a much smaller plate, but the Sami guys have trouble tearing this mount off of their transfer case so I thought if I picked up a couple of the bolts on the output bearing retainers then it would be tons stronger than stock.
*Disclaimer: I am NOT a fabricator*. . but I did build this out of a flat piece of 1/4" plate.
*Disclaimer: I am NOT a fabricator*. . but I did build this out of a flat piece of 1/4" plate.
This looks just like a build on that other board . . .
http://rumblegoatracing.com/forum/ok-pumba--you-can-see-it-now-tcase-mount-t786.html
http://rumblegoatracing.com/forum/ok-pumba--you-can-see-it-now-tcase-mount-t786.html
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