I'm looking seriously at transmission options for the CJ.
I've had lots of ideas, including V8 swaps, building a 4.7 stroker ... ect. But, right now I'm looking at a fairly quick, easy and inexpensive swap to get me on the trails.
I've got a wide ratio Ford 2wd t-18 that is the likely candidate for the swap. This fits the criteria for being quick and easy swap, but I'm not to excited about buying a $400 adapter and a $140 rebuild kit.
I believe I've found a J3000 t18/20 for cheap. As I understand, the bell housing and input shaft are way too long in the J truck trans. So, I'm thinking, swap the input and bell housing from the Ford T18 into the FSJ T18, leave the D20 bolted on the back and swap it in ...
Sound like a decent plan???
Tranmission for the CJ
Jim, that sounds right. Everything I've read says the inputs on any of the wide ratio (6.32 1st) T18's interchange. I've got a T150 in the CJ right now 
To be technically correct, the Ford input shaft is 1/2" too short for the CJ's, requiring a special bushing that is relatively cheap.
It sound like the centerforce pressure plate and clutch disk will work with the T18 too!
To be technically correct, the Ford input shaft is 1/2" too short for the CJ's, requiring a special bushing that is relatively cheap.
It sound like the centerforce pressure plate and clutch disk will work with the T18 too!
Carefull on the FS Jeep 18/20 combo, IIRC the Xfercase has a very long adapter. For some reason this sticks in my mind though I haven't seen one for a long time.
On the other hand, I prefer an auto for a wheeler. This argument can go forever on both sides but most people I know that have switched prefer them.
On the other hand, I prefer an auto for a wheeler. This argument can go forever on both sides but most people I know that have switched prefer them.
Don wrote:Jim, that sounds right. Everything I've read says the inputs on any of the wide ratio (6.32 1st) T18's interchange. I've got a T150 in the CJ right now
To be technically correct, the Ford input shaft is 1/2" too short for the CJ's, requiring a special bushing that is relatively cheap.
It sound like the centerforce pressure plate and clutch disk will work with the T18 too!
Yeah, Advance Adapters has the $20 bushing stacked up like cord wood waiting to ship. Spline count/diameter of the input shafts are the same. You should even be able to use the same throwout bearing. While you are down there, check the condition of the pivots on the bellcrank. With the setup you have, the little stud will always eventually break.
As far as the transfer case adapter, it probably doesn't matter in a CJ7 once you get the shorter bellhousing on there.
Since we're discussing: The T18 is a good choice if you are still running stockish gear ratios. . .but the crappy 2:1 low range on the D20 offsets some of that. . .but you already know that. . .
Thinking ahead. . .if you do a V8 swap, the T18 would work great with an AMC V8 or a 302 (GT40 5.0 from an exploder????). Just don't be a sheep and put in a chevy.
I'm still loving my AX15 behind my 304. . .complete cost of the swap was probably $6-700. 5th gear with the 5.38s is just necessary.
Auto. . .TF999 from a wrangler bolts up, but you need a Dana 300. Autos are cheating anyway. I'd have someone build me a reverse manual valve body with compression braking in all gears. . .best of both worlds.
If you are thinking V8. . .I have a complete fuel injection set-up that I might have for sale very soon. My Jeep is going a different direction.
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White trash
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AW4/231/300. More money up front but quick and very easy to put together. Best of all worlds IMO as you'd never NOT have the right gear to choose from. They don't call it cheating because it makes things harder now do they? 
If you want to avoid being a "sheep" toss an L67 GM 3800 in there. Spank the stank out of the V8's while getting better mileage, lighter overall weight and a fantastic fit under the hood..
I'm a fan of the HO4.0's myself, toss one with a ax15 behind it in there with a 300 and you'd have the whole shooting match all done quickly.
If you want to avoid being a "sheep" toss an L67 GM 3800 in there. Spank the stank out of the V8's while getting better mileage, lighter overall weight and a fantastic fit under the hood..
I'm a fan of the HO4.0's myself, toss one with a ax15 behind it in there with a 300 and you'd have the whole shooting match all done quickly.
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Grumpy
- Peak Putters' Land-Use Coordinator
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"If you are thinking V8. . .I have a complete fuel injection set-up that I might have for sale very soon. My Jeep is going a different direction."
Tell me more. Carb on the Binder is way out of whack...
Tell me more. Carb on the Binder is way out of whack...
Dave
Have Scout, will wheel...Someday...Maybe
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oregon80
-By driving a Scout, you my friend have recycled, which is more than those pansy Prius owners can say.
-I love driving a piece of history that was nearly lost.
Have Scout, will wheel...Someday...Maybe
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oregon80
-By driving a Scout, you my friend have recycled, which is more than those pansy Prius owners can say.
-I love driving a piece of history that was nearly lost.
Well the FSJ t18 source is out the window 
So much for cheap.
So, I can wrap up $600 in the 2wd Ford t18, or get creative ....
Another option I've been pondering is finding an NP435 with a NP203 hanging on that back. That would give me the option of doing a 203/20 doubler, which sound fairly simple. I'm sure that would end up more expensive, but I'd have a lot more gearing ...
I'll do some reading on the AW4 ..
I really don't want to do a motor swap before this spring. I guess the last option would be to throw the centerforce clutch I have in the T150 and baby it until better options come up.
Jim, if I go the V8 route it'll be an already fuel inject 302 HO, with the C6 I have sitting in the garage behind it.
So much for cheap.
So, I can wrap up $600 in the 2wd Ford t18, or get creative ....
Another option I've been pondering is finding an NP435 with a NP203 hanging on that back. That would give me the option of doing a 203/20 doubler, which sound fairly simple. I'm sure that would end up more expensive, but I'd have a lot more gearing ...
I'll do some reading on the AW4 ..
I really don't want to do a motor swap before this spring. I guess the last option would be to throw the centerforce clutch I have in the T150 and baby it until better options come up.
Jim, if I go the V8 route it'll be an already fuel inject 302 HO, with the C6 I have sitting in the garage behind it.
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White trash
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White trash wrote:With a $500 budget I'd look to either an AW4 or AX15 with a 300 behind it. Either one could be installed up and running for that money and you can sell the t150/20 for a bit of recouped $.
I completely agree with Mr. Trashypants. (somebody should make a note)
either of those trannies, make your drivelines fit. . .EZ PZ.
I can help with the hydro clutch if you go AX15. CJOffroad has the clocking ring along with the spacer you need for the D300 for $100. . or you can have one made/make one yourself (a spacer with long bolts would work. . .it only needs to be 7/8" longer than stock). Luk clutch kit from Sonny for $100, Tranny for $200. . .use your drivelines (shorten/lengthen as needed), fab up a tranny mount. . .borrow a street sign to mod your tunnel cover. . . 5speed goodness.
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Grumpy
- Peak Putters' Land-Use Coordinator
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AX15/D300 into Steve's Scout was a piece of cake. After I got the clocking figured out. T-case had to be turned way up in the frame as a couple of the bolts on the trans were in a bad spot to get it where we originally figured it would go.
Dave
Have Scout, will wheel...Someday...Maybe
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oregon80
-By driving a Scout, you my friend have recycled, which is more than those pansy Prius owners can say.
-I love driving a piece of history that was nearly lost.
Have Scout, will wheel...Someday...Maybe
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oregon80
-By driving a Scout, you my friend have recycled, which is more than those pansy Prius owners can say.
-I love driving a piece of history that was nearly lost.
I'm hoping to come back from Portland this weekend with a trans. There are some decent deals on AX-15's and AW4's.
Can someone give me an idea of what the controls are like for the AW4? I see two options, running the stock TCU or running an aftermarket rotary switch to manual shift it. How tough is it to get the factory TCU running on a caveman rig like mine? (Thinking setting up the kick down will be a pain too ...). What are those aftermarket switches really like? I couldn't find many real world opinions on how they work. They sound a little hoaky to me. I'm assuming I'd have to install a tranny cooler as well.
Ideally I'd like to pick up an AX-15 with a 231 hanging on the back, just for the option of a doubler ... but the idea of an automatic is still enticing.
Can someone give me an idea of what the controls are like for the AW4? I see two options, running the stock TCU or running an aftermarket rotary switch to manual shift it. How tough is it to get the factory TCU running on a caveman rig like mine? (Thinking setting up the kick down will be a pain too ...). What are those aftermarket switches really like? I couldn't find many real world opinions on how they work. They sound a little hoaky to me. I'm assuming I'd have to install a tranny cooler as well.
Ideally I'd like to pick up an AX-15 with a 231 hanging on the back, just for the option of a doubler ... but the idea of an automatic is still enticing.
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White trash
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- Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:38 pm
- Location: El Pasco
The factory computer is a turd that will not allow you to hold first gear if you want to it will shift into second. There is no "kickdown" on a aw4 it is a throttle valve that opens up line pressure dependant on throttle position. More throttle = more pressure/stiffer shift. I hooked mine up just because but it was originally just pulled out and clamped.
I'm running a shift controller from Rory (radesignsproducts) it eliminates the computer and allows for any gear starts. I have a joy stick hooked to it for shifting now but I'll be building a paddle setup one of these days. He builds shifters too, I'd love to have a rock shifter to go along with the controller but my factory Toyota shifter gets the job done just fine.
The AISIN transmission is probably the most widely used auto ever. With factory bellhousings you can stuff just about anything in front of it. GM, Toyota/lexus, mercedes, volvo, isuzu, chrysler, ford, mazda just to name a few used them so the sky is the limit as to what engine you can stuff in there later.
And you can double cases behind the aw4 too, I have a 231 feeding an atlas and if I get tired of it I can swap an ax15 in with no major mods.
I'm running a shift controller from Rory (radesignsproducts) it eliminates the computer and allows for any gear starts. I have a joy stick hooked to it for shifting now but I'll be building a paddle setup one of these days. He builds shifters too, I'd love to have a rock shifter to go along with the controller but my factory Toyota shifter gets the job done just fine.
The AISIN transmission is probably the most widely used auto ever. With factory bellhousings you can stuff just about anything in front of it. GM, Toyota/lexus, mercedes, volvo, isuzu, chrysler, ford, mazda just to name a few used them so the sky is the limit as to what engine you can stuff in there later.
And you can double cases behind the aw4 too, I have a 231 feeding an atlas and if I get tired of it I can swap an ax15 in with no major mods.
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White trash
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- Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:38 pm
- Location: El Pasco
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