Black mall crawler 90% bolt on build.

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OldGreen
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Postby OldGreen » Wed May 29, 2013 9:46 am

Lud wrote:In the 9 years I've had my TJ and the last 7 that I've had it offroad, I have yet to get a coolant temp over 200 degrees.

Then again I'm crazy about flushing the coolant every 30,000 miles.


You are doing it wrong. 4.0s like 210. Hot and Lean. Strange but true. Heck, they use a 195* thermostat from the factory.

BUT. . .about that flush. . .I think it is time for me to do just that!

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TJDave
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Postby TJDave » Wed May 29, 2013 10:30 am

OldGreen wrote:You are doing it wrong. 4.0s like 210. Hot and Lean. Strange but true. Heck, they use a 195* thermostat from the factory.

BUT. . .about that flush. . .I think it is time for me to do just that!


Yep. Just a hair under 210 is where my gauge has always lived, and that is where it still is after cutting huge holes in my hood.

I think I feel less heat around around the firewall floorboards. Or, perhaps it is the fact that we have not had any kind of summer yet.

I blame Al Gore.
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Postby TJDave » Fri Aug 16, 2013 9:02 pm

Operation turd polish complete. Eaton E-locker for the Dana 30.
Thank you Lance and Bryan for all the help.

We also discovered a couple of blown out Rusty's flex joints in my rear upper control arms I have to tend to. :(

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Postby TJDave » Mon Aug 19, 2013 2:44 pm

I lied on the above post. The polish was not complete. It needed to be wired in and tested.
My current job kind of sucks, and there was no work for me today, what else to do but work on the Jeep! :D

Since I already have an ARB in the rear, the wiring was mostly done. Lance wired the E-locker into the ARB harness front locker connection when he and Brian installed the E-locker.

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Now to find a spot for the switch. I wanted it close to the rear locker switches so hopefully I would not have to splice and lengthen any wires on the ARB harness inside the Heep. I had the rear locker switch and pump isolator switch on my ashtray delete panel that some TJ's come with. A little searching on the internet confirmed that I could fit all three switches on that panel with some careful cutting. Yay! no splicing.

Before:
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Test fit after cutting:
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All done!
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The wires for the front switch were all just hanging there waiting for me. Easy peazy. All switches are back-lit with the headlights on as they should. Larger activated lights all work too. And.....the locker works.
The front locker will not turn on unless the rear locker is on too. That is the way the ARB system is set up. I don't think it should be any big deal.

Now I guess I better find at least a spare set of shafts until I can afford an upgrade.

And to Brian, someone told me the little detail on the front cover bolts was your idea. I like it. Thank you!

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Postby bobracing » Mon Aug 19, 2013 3:38 pm

The front locker will not turn on unless the rear locker is on too.


I'd change the above so they work whenever you want them too.
Biggest thing I see is snow and crawling out of ruts. Sometime unlocking the back locker will stop pushing the front and allow it to grab and crawl out. Notice this on rigs that run a selectable locker, guessing there is no give like a ratcheting locker.

Just my 2 cents.
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Postby TJDave » Mon Aug 19, 2013 4:00 pm

bobracing wrote:
The front locker will not turn on unless the rear locker is on too.


I'd change the above so they work whenever you want them too.
Biggest thing I see is snow and crawling out of ruts. Sometime unlocking the back locker will stop pushing the front and allow it to grab and crawl out. Notice this on rigs that run a selectable locker, guessing there is no give like a ratcheting locker.

Just my 2 cents.


I will have to look in to how to do that. I know a lot of the Rubicon guys have altered their lockers to work independently.
The feature is built in to the ARB harness. I'm no electrician, but I can probably find something on the web on how to do it.
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Postby Livin4Today » Mon Aug 19, 2013 9:39 pm

TJDave wrote:
bobracing wrote:
The front locker will not turn on unless the rear locker is on too.


I'd change the above so they work whenever you want them too.
Biggest thing I see is snow and crawling out of ruts. Sometime unlocking the back locker will stop pushing the front and allow it to grab and crawl out. Notice this on rigs that run a selectable locker, guessing there is no give like a ratcheting locker.

Just my 2 cents.


I will have to look in to how to do that. I know a lot of the Rubicon guys have altered their lockers to work independently.
The feature is built in to the ARB harness. I'm no electrician, but I can probably find something on the web on how to do it.


Just run it's own power wire instead of the one in the harness to the switch...
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Postby TJDave » Tue Dec 24, 2013 8:59 am

Black Friday Sale Bolt on Stuff. Keeping with the theme.

I ordered a JCR Offroad Winch Bumper during their BF sale. Stubby bumper with a pre-runner hoop to mount some light. The hoop came out a little taller than I hoped. Oh well. Maybe I can use it as crane too. :D

The bumper arrived packaged nicely. Some previous chunks of steel I have ordered have showed up with just a UPS steeker stuck on it.
Since the hoop was taller than I expected, the plan changed to mount a light bar underneath it, instead of on top.
I measured the light tabs and searched for a small light bar.
www.superbrightleds.com is where I found what I was looking for.
An 11" bar with adjustable sliding mounting brackets, on sale!

Primed then rattlecanned the bare bumper with Rustoleum satin black.

Some pics.
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Postby scumby » Tue Dec 24, 2013 9:16 am

Dave, if you haven't already fixed this I can make it however you want. I've already modified mine.

JK Lance wrote:
TJDave wrote:
bobracing wrote:
The front locker will not turn on unless the rear locker is on too.


I'd change the above so they work whenever you want them too.
Biggest thing I see is snow and crawling out of ruts. Sometime unlocking the back locker will stop pushing the front and allow it to grab and crawl out. Notice this on rigs that run a selectable locker, guessing there is no give like a ratcheting locker.

Just my 2 cents.


I will have to look in to how to do that. I know a lot of the Rubicon guys have altered their lockers to work independently.
The feature is built in to the ARB harness. I'm no electrician, but I can probably find something on the web on how to do it.


Just run it's own power wire instead of the one in the harness to the switch...

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Postby TJDave » Tue Dec 24, 2013 9:35 am

scumby wrote:Dave, if you haven't already fixed this I can make it however you want. I've already modified mine.


Thanks Al! 8)
I haven't done anything to it since the locker was installed. In fact, I've only used it once at Juniper a few months ago.

My Jeeping has consisted of grocery store runs, and the short drive to the gravel pit for work lately. :oops:
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Postby Danny » Wed Dec 25, 2013 10:52 am

Dave, one would think you're going to get serious about this mall wheeling.
Forget your age and live your life!

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Postby 79chevy39.5's » Wed Dec 25, 2013 12:03 pm

That bumper looks better than when I last saw it :lol:

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Postby TJDave » Wed Dec 25, 2013 12:35 pm

Danny wrote:Dave, one would think you're going to get serious about this mall wheeling.


I am! ...Although I only drive the old pickup to the mall.

79chevy39.5's wrote:That bumper looks better than when I last saw it :lol:


Thanks! I think you saw the piece of angle iron that saved me from unhooking my winch while I was waiting for the bumper. It was beautiful. :D
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Postby Jafo » Wed Dec 25, 2013 12:39 pm

Dave, are those MCE fenders?
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Postby OldGreen » Wed Dec 25, 2013 12:40 pm

Like a McNugget? You can get Jeep parts there???

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Postby TJDave » Wed Dec 25, 2013 12:57 pm

Jafo wrote:Dave, are those MCE fenders?


Yes. I bought those after smashing a stock fender on the Little Rattlesnake trail. :oops:
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Postby Danny » Wed Dec 25, 2013 2:59 pm

Dave, whats the plan for the old bumper...or is it gone.
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Postby TJDave » Wed Dec 25, 2013 3:07 pm

Danny wrote:Dave, whats the plan for the old bumper...or is it gone.

Bretterer bought the bumper, winch plate, and KC lights. But that piece of angle iron is available! Cheap! :lol:
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Postby Danny » Thu Dec 26, 2013 12:38 pm

How much do you want for it? LOL
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Postby TJDave » Thu Dec 26, 2013 1:40 pm

Nothing......or Pay it Forward donation. :idea:
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Postby TJDave » Sun Jun 08, 2014 5:13 pm

Thank you Bryan for the help today. Thank you Steve for the tube.

Finally got rid of the last set of stock control arms on my Jeep... the front uppers. But, found some axle side bushings that need some attention badly. Time to order up the Currie Johnny Joint kit to replace the worn rubber bushings. I am always afraid of messing with that stuff, but thankfully still no wobbles or shimmies up there.

Replaced the fubared electrical plug on the front Eaton E-locker, but it still will not engage. :evil: Gotta go in and have a looksy.....on another day.

Bryan bent and welded up the spreader bars for my cage.

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Postby TJDave » Wed Jun 18, 2014 12:40 pm

TJDave wrote:Time to order up the Currie Johnny Joint kit to replace the worn rubber bushings.


Parts are in! It's a pretty slick kit. Just hack the top off of flimsy D30 control arm tower holding the stock rubber bushing. The solid Currie piece slides in and is welded to what is left of the tower. It also came with a handy solid steel installation tool for the housing side, and greasable bolts.
Now, I just have to find the time and a little welding help to get it on there.

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Just before the last meeting, I installed a cheapo digital media receiver into the Jeep. Plus, a Quadra-junk direct replacement subwoofer. Probably due to all the dust, the stock CD player took a dump a couple years ago, and the subwoofer was blown. So, no more CDs for the Heep. This little Clarion was only $59 on Crutchfield.com. Least expensive deck on the site. Just a radio, USB, SD card, and ipod inputs. They also sent me everything needed to make it an easy 1/2 hour swap. Tunes again.8)

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Postby TJDave » Sat Jul 05, 2014 4:25 pm

More progress to document. Headed over to Bryansfab this morning to install the Currie JJ bushing kit, and try to see what's up with the non-functioning Eaton E-locker up front.

First up: Drilling out the control arm bolt holes to accept the larger Currie greasable bolts.
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Old diff bushing pounded out
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The worn out passenger side bushing just fell out.
Cutting the top off off the tower. Curries tower is supposed to fit in what's left.
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Good bye.
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As with everything Jeep, the new piece did not fit as the directions say.
It would not slide in far enough. Not wanting to run different length upper CA's, Bryan modified the stock tower a little.
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Done and purdy.
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Postby TJDave » Sat Jul 05, 2014 4:42 pm

Backtrack to a Juniper snow run many months ago. On a hillclimb, OG noticed my front e-locker was not engaging.
After replacing a burnt connector on top of the diff, we had power all the way up to the hole in the top, but still no locky.

Found the problem inside today. The anti-rotation tab on the electromagnet had failed, yanking a wire out.
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Bryan made a new one with a washer and a blob of weld material. 8)
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Wire soldered back on with new home made anti rotation tab.
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Locker engages like a champ again.
Buttoned up with new fluids, and Lube Lockers front and rear (no more RTV)

Another thanks again to Bryan for the help today.
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Postby Grumpy » Sat Jul 05, 2014 5:29 pm

:thu:
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