I agree 110%... oh wait, you have one less zero than me.OldGreen wrote: Overall, I'm in to the project less than $3000
Project/No Project
Okay, we're a little crazy to have a Duramax for a daily driver. But if we go off our meds, we might wind up in a Prius.
If you want to hear God laugh, tell Him your plans.
N7EEL WROD249
If you want to hear God laugh, tell Him your plans.
N7EEL WROD249
Orville has become a project. . .sorta
This weekend, I'm going to yard out the axles and put in "similar" units...with slightly deeper gears and a brand spankin' new rear locker to match the front. So, there is no difference in appearance versus the here/now. . .and well. . .there is the "other" project. . .
This weekend, I'm going to yard out the axles and put in "similar" units...with slightly deeper gears and a brand spankin' new rear locker to match the front. So, there is no difference in appearance versus the here/now. . .and well. . .there is the "other" project. . .
Swapped out the rear end for one with lower gears. Installed the Spartan. Lifted the rear end a little more to level it out.
Front end next weekend. Going to match the gears and do 760X front shafts.
Also, installing the WD hitch and getting the wiring all squared away.
Driving impressions: It is amazing what a 15% increase (decrease?) in gear ratio will do for "seat of the pants". I'm excited for the commute in the morning to get it up to freeway speeds and get 5th gear back.
Front end next weekend. Going to match the gears and do 760X front shafts.
Also, installing the WD hitch and getting the wiring all squared away.
Driving impressions: It is amazing what a 15% increase (decrease?) in gear ratio will do for "seat of the pants". I'm excited for the commute in the morning to get it up to freeway speeds and get 5th gear back.
-
SquirrelCrusher
- Posts: 450
- Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2010 10:56 pm
- Location: Dayton, Wa
What did you do to lift the rear end a little more? My cherokee has a slight front to back lean that I'm not a fan of
'94 Bronco - Buckstop bumper w/ 12k winch
To many atvs and dirt bikes
For Sale '96 F-250 Powerstroke - 4in lift, 35's, Dana 60 Front end, Tuner
Sold '96 Jeep Cherokee - 4in lift, 35s, Dual Spartans, 4.88s
Sold '80 Camaro Z/28 - T-Tops, auto, 350
To many atvs and dirt bikes
For Sale '96 F-250 Powerstroke - 4in lift, 35's, Dana 60 Front end, Tuner
Sold '96 Jeep Cherokee - 4in lift, 35s, Dual Spartans, 4.88s
Sold '80 Camaro Z/28 - T-Tops, auto, 350
tobyw wrote:Those Ranger shackles turned out PERFECT
This. I had some used Ranger shackles. You have to grind off the exposed edge of the upper bushing sleeve and then just bolt them in. Gave around 3/4" of lift and leveled it right up. It looks GREAT now. That pic is on a hill facing uphill. It is even more level on level ground.
-
SquirrelCrusher
- Posts: 450
- Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2010 10:56 pm
- Location: Dayton, Wa
I need more like 2in I think. I did an add a leaf with worn out springs. If I measure from the ground to the top of the wheel well the back is just under 2 in shorter than the front.
'94 Bronco - Buckstop bumper w/ 12k winch
To many atvs and dirt bikes
For Sale '96 F-250 Powerstroke - 4in lift, 35's, Dana 60 Front end, Tuner
Sold '96 Jeep Cherokee - 4in lift, 35s, Dual Spartans, 4.88s
Sold '80 Camaro Z/28 - T-Tops, auto, 350
To many atvs and dirt bikes
For Sale '96 F-250 Powerstroke - 4in lift, 35's, Dana 60 Front end, Tuner
Sold '96 Jeep Cherokee - 4in lift, 35s, Dual Spartans, 4.88s
Sold '80 Camaro Z/28 - T-Tops, auto, 350
SquirrelCrusher wrote:If I measure from the ground to the top of the wheel well the back is just under 2 in shorter than the front.
Not to junk up OG's build thread, but if I'm reading your post correctly you need to take a different measurement... Take a close look at the flares front-rear, and you'll quickly see that the rear flares are lower. Your best bet would be put a level on the rockers and see how it truly sits and go from there. Put a floor jack under the rear bumper and adjust up until you're satisfied, then figure out the best plan to get there.
Yep, I've wheeled one of those, too...
SquirrelCrusher wrote:I need more like 2in I think. I did an add a leaf with worn out springs. If I measure from the ground to the top of the wheel well the back is just under 2 in shorter than the front.
Got everything in the back of your XJ that you would be taking on a wheeling trip? I made the mistake of leveling my TJ while it was completely empty, when I did my last build up. When I put all my tools, recovery gear, rear seat, full tank of gas, and a kid back there, it sagged the back end if the Jeep.
3" may work....just sayin'
Edit: sorry for the hijack OG.
2018 JLU Rubicon
Tow bar mount
Trailer hitch
Tow bar mount
Trailer hitch
Personally, I wouldn't advise a shackle that is more than 3" longer than stock without some sort of way to locate the axle (Wishbone anti-wrap bar or something). Ideally, a 2" or so longer shackle and the appropriate spring arch would be the way to go.
Ditto on the setting ride height with the "most common load". I carry my tools and recovery gear everywhere with me, but usually no one in the back seat. Set at that height, I still ride out fine with the kiddos in the rear.
No worries on the hijack. This is all good info to get out there for the googlebots.
Ditto on the setting ride height with the "most common load". I carry my tools and recovery gear everywhere with me, but usually no one in the back seat. Set at that height, I still ride out fine with the kiddos in the rear.
No worries on the hijack. This is all good info to get out there for the googlebots.
After a couple of days of living with the new rearend in the Jeep on my commute and around town. I have some observations and, really, some general thoughts on the subject.
1. I love 5th gear, but now I love 3rd gear even more. Freeway on ramps are now in the sweet spot.
b. The Spartan in the rear combined with the manual tranny has me getting used to driving again. I hear that it will be a little less annoying once it is broken in and I get used to it. It sure works though. . .no question there. It also makes it track better on the freeway. At least something does.
III: I've been asked why I went to all this trouble to swap from 3.07s to 3.55s. People told me to go lower and that I wouldn't be happy. . .etc. The fact is that Orville does just fine on the trail 99% of the time. A little lower gearing definitely helps there, but where the gears really shine is on the road. 55mph at 2100 rpm in 4th should also be great for pulling my 2500lb trailer. For the freeway, I roll out at 2400RPM in 5th at 75mph.
Many people have AX15 or NV3550 manual transmissions and 4.0 engines. The following for the search engines out there and applies toward the aforementioned powertrain with regards to differential gearing while driving on the STREET/HIGHWAY. the "or lower" refers to a higher percentage of trail use.
29" tires = 3.07 or lower
31" tires = 3.55 or lower
32" tires = 3.73 or lower
33" tires = 4.10 or lower
35" tires = 4.56 or lower
37" tires = 4.88 or lower
38" tires = 5.13 or lower
40" tires = 5.38 or lower
40+" tires = you are on your own.
Honestly, I thought I would be happier with 4.10s. In reality, the internet lies. It is full of people that took other people's advice and justify the results.
I was certainly on both ends of that equation.
The whole point of this thread is to document how you can be realistic, frugal, and gradual about building a capable trail vehicle that you can still drive to the office Mon-Fri.
Up to this point, Orville had 2 major flaws:
1. Highway gearing (5th gear was largely pointless and starting on a hill with the trailer smelled phunny). Cured that with the axle swap.
2. Traction. Added 25% more traction with the rear locker. . .now he's locked up all the way around.
Next up: WD Hitch and wiring for the brake controller.
Next wheelin' mod: Creative recovery gear. . .but you'll have to wait until after an EPIC summer of wheelin' and road trippin' to see what that looks like. All my money from now until August is going to be invested in making memories. . .
1. I love 5th gear, but now I love 3rd gear even more. Freeway on ramps are now in the sweet spot.
b. The Spartan in the rear combined with the manual tranny has me getting used to driving again. I hear that it will be a little less annoying once it is broken in and I get used to it. It sure works though. . .no question there. It also makes it track better on the freeway. At least something does.
III: I've been asked why I went to all this trouble to swap from 3.07s to 3.55s. People told me to go lower and that I wouldn't be happy. . .etc. The fact is that Orville does just fine on the trail 99% of the time. A little lower gearing definitely helps there, but where the gears really shine is on the road. 55mph at 2100 rpm in 4th should also be great for pulling my 2500lb trailer. For the freeway, I roll out at 2400RPM in 5th at 75mph.
Many people have AX15 or NV3550 manual transmissions and 4.0 engines. The following for the search engines out there and applies toward the aforementioned powertrain with regards to differential gearing while driving on the STREET/HIGHWAY. the "or lower" refers to a higher percentage of trail use.
29" tires = 3.07 or lower
31" tires = 3.55 or lower
32" tires = 3.73 or lower
33" tires = 4.10 or lower
35" tires = 4.56 or lower
37" tires = 4.88 or lower
38" tires = 5.13 or lower
40" tires = 5.38 or lower
40+" tires = you are on your own.
Honestly, I thought I would be happier with 4.10s. In reality, the internet lies. It is full of people that took other people's advice and justify the results.
I was certainly on both ends of that equation.
The whole point of this thread is to document how you can be realistic, frugal, and gradual about building a capable trail vehicle that you can still drive to the office Mon-Fri.
Up to this point, Orville had 2 major flaws:
1. Highway gearing (5th gear was largely pointless and starting on a hill with the trailer smelled phunny). Cured that with the axle swap.
2. Traction. Added 25% more traction with the rear locker. . .now he's locked up all the way around.
Next up: WD Hitch and wiring for the brake controller.
Next wheelin' mod: Creative recovery gear. . .but you'll have to wait until after an EPIC summer of wheelin' and road trippin' to see what that looks like. All my money from now until August is going to be invested in making memories. . .
-
Wrench
- Peak Putters Member
- Posts: 1237
- Joined: Sat May 30, 2009 7:23 am
- Location: in a van down by the river
3.55's, huh? Did you get those gears from Jose? I think I have the front axle gears here somewhere...
I think my next rig will have tall gears and a 4:1 low range box.
Do you have a 7-way socket already that has a charge line? Or do you need to run both the charge line and brake control wires? Dont forget to install circuit breakers near the battery for both the charge and brake wiring.
I think my next rig will have tall gears and a 4:1 low range box.
Do you have a 7-way socket already that has a charge line? Or do you need to run both the charge line and brake control wires? Dont forget to install circuit breakers near the battery for both the charge and brake wiring.
Paul
'84 XJ, '19JL
'84 XJ, '19JL
-
Livin4Today
- Posts: 1054
- Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2012 8:23 am
- Location: Kennewick, WA
Hey Jimmy, I'm hoping to install my 5.13s this weekend and I'm considering a Spartan for the front of my JK. There's a shop in Portland that sells them for about $265 (Craigslist). Any thoughts, as it is my DD...
Lance
Building a capable off roader is easy, building a street legal one that you can wheel and then drive daily is the challenge...
2007 JKU, 7" RK lift, 40s, ARBs, 5.38s, Headers, Fox Coilovers, etc. http://www.Livin4Today.com
Building a capable off roader is easy, building a street legal one that you can wheel and then drive daily is the challenge...
2007 JKU, 7" RK lift, 40s, ARBs, 5.38s, Headers, Fox Coilovers, etc. http://www.Livin4Today.com
5.13s? Awesome. 35s?? That seems to be the hot ticket for JKs.
The spartan is a great choice. I DD my XJ with one in the front. EVERY morning I make a full lock 180 turn in my street. You can hear it click. Once in a while you will hear it click when you back up and turn at the same time. It does NOT affect street performance.
Now, the rear spartan is a different story on the street. . .manageable, but completely "present". Since it is new, it is quite aggressive on the street.
The spartan is a great choice. I DD my XJ with one in the front. EVERY morning I make a full lock 180 turn in my street. You can hear it click. Once in a while you will hear it click when you back up and turn at the same time. It does NOT affect street performance.
Now, the rear spartan is a different story on the street. . .manageable, but completely "present". Since it is new, it is quite aggressive on the street.
Today I swapped out the fronend for one with matching gears to the rear. Installed the locker, etc. Along with big ujoint shafts....
Turns out that this phase isn't quite over....one of.the last bolts to go in was the upper caliper bolt on the passenger side. The hole is stripped. So...tomorrow morning I'm changing the knuckle, attaching the track bar, filling it up with 90wbig and going on a test drive.
Turns out that this phase isn't quite over....one of.the last bolts to go in was the upper caliper bolt on the passenger side. The hole is stripped. So...tomorrow morning I'm changing the knuckle, attaching the track bar, filling it up with 90wbig and going on a test drive.
Return to “Projects and Build-Ups”
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests