2001 TJ 32RH to AW4 Swap

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Fri Nov 18, 2011 8:49 am

WT - which machine shop in Grandview - there are a couple of them.

http://www.yellowpages.com/grandview-wa/machine-shops

Lower Valley or K&D?
Last edited by mattawajeep on Fri Nov 18, 2011 12:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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White trash
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Postby White trash » Fri Nov 18, 2011 9:23 am

Lower valley machine. Forgot they changed their name years ago. Everyone in the upper valley still calls them grandview machine. :D

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colemancooler
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Postby colemancooler » Fri Nov 18, 2011 4:39 pm

a local machinist did mine for my dual cases for 75$ea plus the cost of the tube, and I can drive down the freeway without any vibration :D
shindig wheelers #36

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Fri Nov 18, 2011 8:10 pm

colemancooler wrote:a local machinist did mine for my dual cases for 75$ea plus the cost of the tube, and I can drive down the freeway without any vibration :D


Not sure what It's going to cost at grandview but that's kinda moot at this point - cause they're going to get it ready for me before thanksgiving. Which is quite nice of them. Had a buddy that was going to lengthen the shaft for me, and that fell through leaving me without much time.

No matter what, it should be cheaper than a $300 new one from Tom Woods.


Oh, and driving the jeep with proper gearing is awesome. Feels like a completely different vehicle. I can accelerate up hills now rather than bog down and crawl.

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Sun Nov 20, 2011 10:36 pm

Discovered a slight problem tonight when messing around in low range on the T-Case.

When the transmission is in the 1-2 position, I can't go above ~2100 rpms withot the transmission cutting out (goes into neutral or something and then the rpm's shoot up). This also happens when in 2WD albiet closer to 3000 rpms.

Don't think I have anything wired wrong, but I plan to check everything over tomorrow. P, R, N, D, & 3 all function as they should - it's just the 1-2 range that's giving me issues.

I also don't seem to have any engine brakeing capablilies in 1-2 range. I can't tell if it's because it shifts to second way early or if something else is going on.

Any ideas?

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Tue Nov 22, 2011 9:41 am

Think I have the problem figured out, looks like a bad neutral safety switch.

Anyone know the name of the other auto wrecking yard in tri-cities? Trying to find a switch before the next run - and the cheapest I can find new locally is $270. Don't want to do that when I can buy a new one online for $60.

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/NeutralSafetyS ... 27455/1998

OldGreen
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Postby OldGreen » Tue Nov 22, 2011 9:51 am

Tommy's?

Also, Squirrelcrusher has one on the tranny in his garage!!!

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Tue Nov 22, 2011 9:57 am

OldGreen wrote:Tommy's?

Also, Squirrelcrusher has one on the tranny in his garage!!!


Hmm, if he's not going to use it and if it's the right year range....

Though it just dawned on me that I don't actually need the switch for this trip. I can manually supply the TCU with the right signal when I want it to be in 1-2 range.

Might go to the auto parts store and find one of these:

Image

for when I wan't to be in low range.

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Postby OldGreen » Tue Nov 22, 2011 10:01 am

His is from a 96. . .but IDK if the switch is different???

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Tue Nov 22, 2011 10:02 am

OldGreen wrote:His is from a 96. . .but IDK if the switch is different???


Hard to say, but it looks like they're different when checking online.

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White trash
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Postby White trash » Tue Nov 22, 2011 10:33 am

My trans would act like it was in neutral and the jump into gear every once in a while too. Never had an engine in it long enough to figure out the issue. I have no neutral safety switch on my trans just an aftermarket controller.

I wonder what the dealio is...

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:08 am

White trash wrote:My trans would act like it was in neutral and the jump into gear every once in a while too. Never had an engine in it long enough to figure out the issue. I have no neutral safety switch on my trans just an aftermarket controller.

I wonder what the dealio is...


That could be part of the problem. In order for the trans to funtion right it needs both manual and electric input.

Got mine fixed for the run at least. Rigged up a toggle switch for when I want to be in 1-2. Checked it out in the gravel pit next door. Now I've got engine braking, and the trans stays in gear when running at higher rpms.

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White trash
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Postby White trash » Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:38 am

The controller just switches the solenoids. I have never actually driven the controller, I was having issues with it when using toggle switches only.

All of the controllers I've run into have simply shut off power to the computer and switched the solenoids to keep the trans in first. What are you powering to keep it there?

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Tue Nov 22, 2011 12:02 pm

White trash wrote:The controller just switches the solenoids. I have never actually driven the controller, I was having issues with it when using toggle switches only.


Yah, I was just saying that if one signal is messed up it could behave normally in most positions as alot of the functions can be controlled only using the manual shifter.

White trash wrote:All of the controllers I've run into have simply shut off power to the computer and switched the solenoids to keep the trans in first. What are you powering to keep it there?


It's not actually holding in first when in 1-2 range, it will eventually shift to second - though the 1998 era AW4's are a bit better behaved than earlier models (they don't shift out of 1st gear until 4500 RPM's).

My toggle switch is simply supplying power to the 1-2 Sense wire on the TCU so that it powers the correct solenoids. Before, when it wasn't working, none of the solenoids were activated and the trans had no idea what was going on and shut itself down (went into neutral when RPM's were above 2100).

When I get everything done I'm going to go with one of these controllers:

http://montanafab.com/products/

It works with the TCU and lets you manually select 1st or second gear with a handy rotary switch. Seems easier as it just plugs in, than getting a full blown shift controller. With 1-2 gear control I'll have everything I need for offroad operation - as I can't see much use in 3rd or 4th gear starts on the trail.

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Thu Nov 24, 2011 7:09 pm

Have some odd vibrations starting around 40mph. Seems worst around 45 and then tapers off a bit up to 60 though it's still there.. Think it's most likely from the front driveshaft. Joint's all seemed fine - but I didn't have them replaced when the driveline was lengthened.

It's either an angle issue (though it looks fine just eyeballing it), bad joints, front output issues (perhaps from the SYE install?), or this t-case always had issues.

Too many things have changed since I've last had a front driveline installed. Think this is going to be a pain to figure out.

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Lurch
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Postby Lurch » Thu Nov 24, 2011 7:17 pm

Pull the front drive shaft and see if it changes. A decent drive shaft shop should have checked the joints when they lengthened it.
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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Thu Nov 24, 2011 9:17 pm

Lurch wrote:Pull the front drive shaft and see if it changes. A decent drive shaft shop should have checked the joints when they lengthened it.


Gonna do that tonight. And the shop wouldn't have had the parts in time, so I told them not to worry about changing joints when I had it lengthened. Joints were fine previously, so it's probably unbalanced or there some other issue.

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Thu Nov 24, 2011 10:28 pm

Drives perfectly without the front driveshaft... Almost like a passenger car.

Front output pulls out of the transfer case very very slightly, while on my old proven transfer case it doesn't move at all. I'm pretty certain that I torqued it back down but I'm getting the tools at the shop right now to make sure.

Pinion angle is also worse than I believed at first glance. Looks like the pinion is pointed a few degrees low. Don't have control arms that can adjust for that either. Ah well, I'll see what happens.

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Thu Nov 24, 2011 11:15 pm

Looks like the output is fine and it seems to turn just as smoothly as my other one. Probably angle or driveshaft issue. Gonna drive up there with it disconnected. Probably stop once I find snow and put it back on.

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colemancooler
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Postby colemancooler » Fri Nov 25, 2011 11:14 am

shindig wheelers #36

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Postby SquirrelCrusher » Fri Nov 25, 2011 3:53 pm

If you need something off that 96 trans let me know. I'm swapping it into my cherokee soon, but I think I'm swapping stuff from mine onto it, so I bet the neutral safety switch would be one of the things I switch from my current trans.
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Postby Wrench » Fri Nov 25, 2011 5:11 pm



Not trying to derail this thread, but I emailed 4wheelingpluss several weeks ago about shocks for my Chevy and havent heard a peep. I hear that is not very good for business... :roll:
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White trash
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Postby White trash » Fri Nov 25, 2011 6:13 pm

Wrench wrote:


Not trying to derail this thread, but I emailed 4wheelingpluss several weeks ago about shocks for my Chevy and havent heard a peep. I hear that is not very good for business... :roll:



And now that colemancooler works there so things don't get missed like they used to hence your frustration.

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colemancooler
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Postby colemancooler » Sat Nov 26, 2011 9:41 am

I am working from my home, Pm me and I usually get back to you even on weekends :wink:
shindig wheelers #36

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Mon Nov 28, 2011 1:00 pm



Not a bad price. I need to do some looking around, and then when I finally have money again I'll have to grab a set.

SquirrelCrusher wrote:If you need something off that 96 trans let me know. I'm swapping it into my cherokee soon, but I think I'm swapping stuff from mine onto it, so I bet the neutral safety switch would be one of the things I switch from my current trans.


I'll try and call the dealership today and figure out if they're the same part number. It's hard to tell online. If it will work for me I'll gladly take it off your hands.
Last edited by mattawajeep on Mon Nov 28, 2011 7:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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