2001 TJ 32RH to AW4 Swap
- mattawajeep
- Posts: 1221
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WT - which machine shop in Grandview - there are a couple of them.
http://www.yellowpages.com/grandview-wa/machine-shops
Lower Valley or K&D?
http://www.yellowpages.com/grandview-wa/machine-shops
Lower Valley or K&D?
Last edited by mattawajeep on Fri Nov 18, 2011 12:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- White trash
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- colemancooler
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- mattawajeep
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colemancooler wrote:a local machinist did mine for my dual cases for 75$ea plus the cost of the tube, and I can drive down the freeway without any vibration
Not sure what It's going to cost at grandview but that's kinda moot at this point - cause they're going to get it ready for me before thanksgiving. Which is quite nice of them. Had a buddy that was going to lengthen the shaft for me, and that fell through leaving me without much time.
No matter what, it should be cheaper than a $300 new one from Tom Woods.
Oh, and driving the jeep with proper gearing is awesome. Feels like a completely different vehicle. I can accelerate up hills now rather than bog down and crawl.
- mattawajeep
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Discovered a slight problem tonight when messing around in low range on the T-Case.
When the transmission is in the 1-2 position, I can't go above ~2100 rpms withot the transmission cutting out (goes into neutral or something and then the rpm's shoot up). This also happens when in 2WD albiet closer to 3000 rpms.
Don't think I have anything wired wrong, but I plan to check everything over tomorrow. P, R, N, D, & 3 all function as they should - it's just the 1-2 range that's giving me issues.
I also don't seem to have any engine brakeing capablilies in 1-2 range. I can't tell if it's because it shifts to second way early or if something else is going on.
Any ideas?
When the transmission is in the 1-2 position, I can't go above ~2100 rpms withot the transmission cutting out (goes into neutral or something and then the rpm's shoot up). This also happens when in 2WD albiet closer to 3000 rpms.
Don't think I have anything wired wrong, but I plan to check everything over tomorrow. P, R, N, D, & 3 all function as they should - it's just the 1-2 range that's giving me issues.
I also don't seem to have any engine brakeing capablilies in 1-2 range. I can't tell if it's because it shifts to second way early or if something else is going on.
Any ideas?
- mattawajeep
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- Joined: Wed May 19, 2010 6:18 pm
- Location: Mattawa, WA
Think I have the problem figured out, looks like a bad neutral safety switch.
Anyone know the name of the other auto wrecking yard in tri-cities? Trying to find a switch before the next run - and the cheapest I can find new locally is $270. Don't want to do that when I can buy a new one online for $60.
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/NeutralSafetyS ... 27455/1998
Anyone know the name of the other auto wrecking yard in tri-cities? Trying to find a switch before the next run - and the cheapest I can find new locally is $270. Don't want to do that when I can buy a new one online for $60.
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/NeutralSafetyS ... 27455/1998
- mattawajeep
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OldGreen wrote:Tommy's?
Also, Squirrelcrusher has one on the tranny in his garage!!!
Hmm, if he's not going to use it and if it's the right year range....
Though it just dawned on me that I don't actually need the switch for this trip. I can manually supply the TCU with the right signal when I want it to be in 1-2 range.
Might go to the auto parts store and find one of these:
for when I wan't to be in low range.
- mattawajeep
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- White trash
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- mattawajeep
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White trash wrote:My trans would act like it was in neutral and the jump into gear every once in a while too. Never had an engine in it long enough to figure out the issue. I have no neutral safety switch on my trans just an aftermarket controller.
I wonder what the dealio is...
That could be part of the problem. In order for the trans to funtion right it needs both manual and electric input.
Got mine fixed for the run at least. Rigged up a toggle switch for when I want to be in 1-2. Checked it out in the gravel pit next door. Now I've got engine braking, and the trans stays in gear when running at higher rpms.
- White trash
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The controller just switches the solenoids. I have never actually driven the controller, I was having issues with it when using toggle switches only.
All of the controllers I've run into have simply shut off power to the computer and switched the solenoids to keep the trans in first. What are you powering to keep it there?
All of the controllers I've run into have simply shut off power to the computer and switched the solenoids to keep the trans in first. What are you powering to keep it there?
- mattawajeep
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White trash wrote:The controller just switches the solenoids. I have never actually driven the controller, I was having issues with it when using toggle switches only.
Yah, I was just saying that if one signal is messed up it could behave normally in most positions as alot of the functions can be controlled only using the manual shifter.
White trash wrote:All of the controllers I've run into have simply shut off power to the computer and switched the solenoids to keep the trans in first. What are you powering to keep it there?
It's not actually holding in first when in 1-2 range, it will eventually shift to second - though the 1998 era AW4's are a bit better behaved than earlier models (they don't shift out of 1st gear until 4500 RPM's).
My toggle switch is simply supplying power to the 1-2 Sense wire on the TCU so that it powers the correct solenoids. Before, when it wasn't working, none of the solenoids were activated and the trans had no idea what was going on and shut itself down (went into neutral when RPM's were above 2100).
When I get everything done I'm going to go with one of these controllers:
http://montanafab.com/products/
It works with the TCU and lets you manually select 1st or second gear with a handy rotary switch. Seems easier as it just plugs in, than getting a full blown shift controller. With 1-2 gear control I'll have everything I need for offroad operation - as I can't see much use in 3rd or 4th gear starts on the trail.
- mattawajeep
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Have some odd vibrations starting around 40mph. Seems worst around 45 and then tapers off a bit up to 60 though it's still there.. Think it's most likely from the front driveshaft. Joint's all seemed fine - but I didn't have them replaced when the driveline was lengthened.
It's either an angle issue (though it looks fine just eyeballing it), bad joints, front output issues (perhaps from the SYE install?), or this t-case always had issues.
Too many things have changed since I've last had a front driveline installed. Think this is going to be a pain to figure out.
It's either an angle issue (though it looks fine just eyeballing it), bad joints, front output issues (perhaps from the SYE install?), or this t-case always had issues.
Too many things have changed since I've last had a front driveline installed. Think this is going to be a pain to figure out.
- mattawajeep
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Lurch wrote:Pull the front drive shaft and see if it changes. A decent drive shaft shop should have checked the joints when they lengthened it.
Gonna do that tonight. And the shop wouldn't have had the parts in time, so I told them not to worry about changing joints when I had it lengthened. Joints were fine previously, so it's probably unbalanced or there some other issue.
- mattawajeep
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Drives perfectly without the front driveshaft... Almost like a passenger car.
Front output pulls out of the transfer case very very slightly, while on my old proven transfer case it doesn't move at all. I'm pretty certain that I torqued it back down but I'm getting the tools at the shop right now to make sure.
Pinion angle is also worse than I believed at first glance. Looks like the pinion is pointed a few degrees low. Don't have control arms that can adjust for that either. Ah well, I'll see what happens.
Front output pulls out of the transfer case very very slightly, while on my old proven transfer case it doesn't move at all. I'm pretty certain that I torqued it back down but I'm getting the tools at the shop right now to make sure.
Pinion angle is also worse than I believed at first glance. Looks like the pinion is pointed a few degrees low. Don't have control arms that can adjust for that either. Ah well, I'll see what happens.
- mattawajeep
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- colemancooler
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If you need something off that 96 trans let me know. I'm swapping it into my cherokee soon, but I think I'm swapping stuff from mine onto it, so I bet the neutral safety switch would be one of the things I switch from my current trans.
'94 Bronco - Buckstop bumper w/ 12k winch
To many atvs and dirt bikes
For Sale '96 F-250 Powerstroke - 4in lift, 35's, Dana 60 Front end, Tuner
Sold '96 Jeep Cherokee - 4in lift, 35s, Dual Spartans, 4.88s
Sold '80 Camaro Z/28 - T-Tops, auto, 350
To many atvs and dirt bikes
For Sale '96 F-250 Powerstroke - 4in lift, 35's, Dana 60 Front end, Tuner
Sold '96 Jeep Cherokee - 4in lift, 35s, Dual Spartans, 4.88s
Sold '80 Camaro Z/28 - T-Tops, auto, 350
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- Peak Putters Member
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colemancooler wrote:http://store.4wheelingplus.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1198&cat=200
shameless plug
Not trying to derail this thread, but I emailed 4wheelingpluss several weeks ago about shocks for my Chevy and havent heard a peep. I hear that is not very good for business...
Paul
'84 XJ, '19JL
'84 XJ, '19JL
- White trash
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Wrench wrote:colemancooler wrote:http://store.4wheelingplus.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1198&cat=200
shameless plug
Not trying to derail this thread, but I emailed 4wheelingpluss several weeks ago about shocks for my Chevy and havent heard a peep. I hear that is not very good for business...
And now that colemancooler works there so things don't get missed like they used to hence your frustration.
- colemancooler
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- mattawajeep
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colemancooler wrote:http://store.4wheelingplus.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1198&cat=200
shameless plug
Not a bad price. I need to do some looking around, and then when I finally have money again I'll have to grab a set.
SquirrelCrusher wrote:If you need something off that 96 trans let me know. I'm swapping it into my cherokee soon, but I think I'm swapping stuff from mine onto it, so I bet the neutral safety switch would be one of the things I switch from my current trans.
I'll try and call the dealership today and figure out if they're the same part number. It's hard to tell online. If it will work for me I'll gladly take it off your hands.
Last edited by mattawajeep on Mon Nov 28, 2011 7:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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