off road tear drop trailer build

[White trash]

We are talking about a sidehill situation. More weight on the lowside causes the high side to fill with air displaced from the lowside. You would be correct if we were living in opposite world.

Age is just a number don't depend on it to mean something to anyone.

[tobyw]

[Livin4Today]

We are talking about a sidehill situation. More weight on the lowside causes the high side to fill with air displaced from the lowside. You would be correct if we were living in opposite world.

Age is just a number don't depend on it to mean something to anyone.

Okay, I can't resist, on a side hill situation, we'll say north is up or higher, south is down or lower, and you are traveling east to west, meaning the Driver's side is to the south. If the Driver stops and gets out of the vehicle is he getting out on the high side or low side, using his driver's door?

My 6th grade science teacher and I happen to see this as the LOW side, any other possible interpretation is questionable. Yet if you (WT) insist on High I shall make a mental note that when conversing with you that I must first adjust my perspective, then proceed backwards.

[White trash]

Driver would be getting out of the lowside while the trailer continues to lean further to the driver side as the weight transfers from high to low causing the air to rush to the high side.

[Grumpy]

I can tell these two are gonna get along just fine

[White trash]

I can tell these two are gonna get along just fine

I get along with everyone even if they don't get along with me.

[bobracing]

Lance is right IF the trailer was to stay flat. The upper bag would squish and the lower would expand out to meet the terrain.
The problem is the trailer won't stay flat and will tilt with the hill causing what WT has explain.
Trailer tilts putting more weigh on the lower bag.
In turn pushes more air to the top bag because it is the easiest to expand.
Which causes more weight on the lower bag.

The same problem would be encountered on the road every time a corner was taken, the outside bag would compress pushing air to the inside exaggerating the corner lean.

A cool trick would be to put a self leveling setup off a caddy or similar.

[White trash]

Lance is right IF the trailer was to stay flat. The upper bag would squish and the lower would expand out to meet the terrain.
The problem is the trailer won't stay flat and will tilt with the hill causing what WT has explain.
Trailer tilts putting more weigh on the lower bag.
In turn pushes more air to the top bag because it is the easiest to expand.
Which causes more weight on the lower bag.

The same problem would be encountered on the road every time a corner was taken, the outside bag would compress pushing air to the inside exaggerating the corner lean.

A cool trick would be to put a self leveling setup off a caddy or similar.

Exactly my point, the trailer wouldn't stay level...


The self leveling system has been done and it had issues. I had a nice long conversation with the owner of winchline.com a number of years ago about the air spring system he had on his tj at the previous years event in goldendale. He said it was nice but if you went around a long corner on the highway etc it would try to correct the lean so when you straightened out it would have to correct again.

[tobyw]

I don't always agree with WT, but when I do, it's because he is right.

[Grumpy]

[colemancooler]

couldn't you just isolate the bags with a valve after filling them, like the pic i posted on page 1?

[Grumpy]

Geez, Kris, don't make it so simple

[colemancooler]

slow but hopefully steady progress


i got the axle today and assembled it, and got the tires mounted on it , now that the width is known for sure I can move on to the frame.

i decided to keep it simple, no Independent suspension for me

[colemancooler]

picked up the steal yesterday, hope to have a rolling chassis by tomorrow I will post pics then, i will also be out of funds by then so back to scraping pennies

[colemancooler]

just a few more welds, and then i can paint, and start on the floor, that is all for now, until i get more funds

[Livin4Today]

just a few more welds, and then i can paint, and start on the floor, that is all for now, until i get more funds

So what do you figure you have into it at this point?

[colemancooler]

$550ish

[Livin4Today]

$550ish

Hmmmm,

I'm thinking of building a trailer for dual purposes of hauling a couple Harley dressers and/or to use for camping/cargo on trips. I'm thinking I'd need to go Aluminum on a lot of the framework to keep the weight down.

Keeping the little towing power I have focused on the 1700# of motorcycles or lesser weight gear...

Keep up with the pics, the help me design in my head..

[colemancooler]

had some peculiar clearance issues, and determined that my $40 wrecking yard wheels are bent, So I am in the market for some 6 lug 16" wheels if they don't have any to trade me. I will find out tomorrow, after i take the tires off the wheels

[colemancooler]

I have different wheels now, unfortunately the offset is more so the trailer will be 4" wider,I also ordered 2 sheets of Baltic birch 5'x5'x1/2", and ordered a tongue jack and safety chains from harbor freight, tonight I am going to Pick up a free 84 sidekick camper that was in the paper today, I plan on stripping it of it s appliances and whatever else I can use

[Danny]

Way to go Kris...pic be 4 you strip it. Gotta C this.

[colemancooler]

i got it home, it was all my father in laws F150 could do to carry the weight of that thing, it has a refrigerator, stove, toilet, furnace, power inverter, clean and sewer tanks, and a 2 place stainless sink, I made out like a bandit, even got the title, i will post pics tomorrow when it is not dark

[Wrench]

If you dont know, there are codes for building RV's, similar building houses. If you have any questions with the appliance installations or wiring, etc., I have a good library of information that will help.

I can also get any parts you need.

[colemancooler]

the pilot on the stove had very low pressure, and will not reach the flame sensor, and going to eventually blow out the line, but the burners work fine, also there is a leak in the pilot tube on the furnace, I will have to replace the pilot tube, tomorrow, someone has already ruined the nut on the end of it, over tightening it. everything else works great. I have not yet tested the water heater, or the water pump, but the power inverter, and fridge work great

[Wrench]

the pilot on the stove had very low pressure, and will not reach the flame sensor, and going to eventually blow out the line, but the burners work fine, also there is a leak in the pilot tube on the furnace, I will have to replace the pilot tube, tomorrow, someone has already ruined the nut on the end of it, over tightening it. everything else works great. I have not yet tested the water heater, or the water pump, but the power inverter, and fridge work great

Stove pilot: are you referring to the stove top pilot, or oven pilot? Give me Brand, model, and serial number and I will see if I can get a parts diagram.

As far as pressure goes, what is the system pressure? Should be 11" Water Column at 50% flow. There should be a regulator at the LP tanks (adjustable), and one on the stove top inlet.

Furnace tube: Make, model, and ser # and we can look up parts.

Note: some of the older appliances you can no longer get parts for. If that is the case, you will have to "wing it" yourself. No Certified technician is going to put other than stock parts on a propane appliance as this opens up a huge liability can of worms.