off road tear drop trailer build

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colemancooler
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Postby colemancooler » Fri Mar 23, 2012 7:02 pm

I have been doing H.V.A.C service for 18 years so winging it is no problem, The furnace pilot tube is fixed, and now the gas valve leaks gas, so that should be around $100 to fix. i couldn't find a model on it but the vent says hydro flame, looks identical to this but the gas valve is different http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/furnaces/MPD%2032072%20SP%201.08.pdf

the oven has pilot pressure issues, but the stove top works great, the oven is a wedgewood stove Number W283844 Model 12122
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Postby Wrench » Sat Mar 24, 2012 6:12 am

colemancooler wrote:I have been doing H.V.A.C service for 18 years so winging it is no problem, The furnace pilot tube is fixed, and now the gas valve leaks gas, so that should be around $100 to fix. i couldn't find a model on it but the vent says hydro flame, looks identical to this but the gas valve is different http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/furnaces/MPD%2032072%20SP%201.08.pdf

the oven has pilot pressure issues, but the stove top works great, the oven is a wedgewood stove Number W283844 Model 12122


I would need the exact Furnace model number to verify, but it looks like there may be a retrofit valve kit for those that converts it to DSI. The standard valves are no longer available for the 7900 series furnaces.

As for the stove, was that the model number on the tag in the stove-top burner area with the lid off? My parts lists dont list it, but that may just be because of it's age.
Paul
'84 XJ, '19JL

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colemancooler
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Postby colemancooler » Wed Mar 28, 2012 6:32 pm

the camper is gone, I got a wealth of parts from it, and spent $17 hauling the remnants to the dump ( 860 lbs ), I also made $16 selling all the aluminum trim, hope soon to have sold the camper jacks and toilet/ black water tank, also now that the camper is gone I can get the trailer out from behind the house and weld on the tongue jack and safety chains, which came yesterday
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colemancooler
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Postby colemancooler » Wed Apr 11, 2012 1:32 pm

I have made some progress since my last post, tomorrow my router bit is supposed to arrive so I can attach my plywood pieces to make bigger plywood pieces, I hope to have walls up soon, either that or go Back to work, which ever comes first

Image

Image
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colemancooler
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Postby colemancooler » Thu Apr 19, 2012 3:04 pm

Image
got the nasty black stuff on the bottom,
Image
hope to have the walls up tomorrow :thu:
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Postby SPR » Thu Apr 19, 2012 6:19 pm

What purpose does the the nasty black serve?
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colemancooler
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Postby colemancooler » Thu Apr 19, 2012 7:49 pm

to keep road grime and water from rotting the wood floor of the trailer, the black side goes down when it is assembled
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colemancooler
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Postby colemancooler » Fri Apr 20, 2012 3:00 pm

Image
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Postby iaccocca » Fri Apr 20, 2012 3:07 pm

Oh, I'm liking this. I'll be 1st in line to buy it from you for cheap when you go to sell it, but I imagine that is not going to happen. :-)
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Postby SPR » Fri Apr 20, 2012 7:22 pm

Chris, How did you join the tail section of plywood to the main body of plywood? What type of plywood are you using and how do you plan to cover the plywood?
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colemancooler
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Postby colemancooler » Fri Apr 20, 2012 7:30 pm

I used a 3 wing cutter and a very large 1/8" biscuit

3 wing cutter is a router blade
Image

I plan on skinning it with Baked on enamel sheet metal, like what is used to make sheet metal flashing, But with the exception of a fair amount of pre planning, some of the ideas I have are subject to change. I am shooting from the hip on some of the details
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Postby SPR » Fri Apr 20, 2012 8:09 pm

Sounds good. I use biscuit joints for a lot of stuff. It sounds like you used one long biscuit that runs the length of your joint. Regardless, biscuit joints are really tough to rip apart once they set up. Cool project.
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colemancooler
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Postby colemancooler » Sat Apr 21, 2012 7:36 pm

just realized that is didn't fully answer your question, the walls are 1/2" CDX, and the floor is 1/2" Baltic birch
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colemancooler
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Postby colemancooler » Thu May 03, 2012 2:57 pm

just ordered 2 of these yesterday for the interior

http://www.amazon.com/Seasense-Super-Bright-Interior-Surface/dp/B001HPJLBG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_3

current Pic
Image
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Postby OldGreen » Thu May 03, 2012 3:45 pm

This is too cool.

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colemancooler
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Postby colemancooler » Mon Jun 04, 2012 10:43 am

slowly but surely making progress, usually any day that it is out in the front at least two people stop to talk to me about it.
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made my own fantastic fan with a computer fan

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got flooring installed, this is tile from a grocery store that was left over, I got from my neighbor

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getting the tongue storage figured out, and some wiring done
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Re: off road tear drop trailer build

Postby LiftedZuki » Wed Jun 13, 2012 10:57 am

colemancooler wrote:I have been planning this for a while now and do not have a job, but recently came into some $ and am itching to get started. the first issue I have run into is the trailer will most likely be under 1,500lbs and the only way I can buy a pre made axle with 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern, is to buy a 3,500lb axle, the over kill would be ok, but the ride would SUCK!, I am also considering an independent custom air bag suspension

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which might nickle and dime me to death



I never see people use rhino3d. I love this program so much. :twisted:

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colemancooler
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Postby colemancooler » Sun Jun 17, 2012 9:32 pm

got a 60 watt solar set up for fathers day

http://www.zampsolar.com/index.php?m=87&s=542&c=&id=1306

I am very excited to get this mounted, but still have to get the skin on first
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Postby Wrench » Wed Jun 20, 2012 6:19 pm

If I were you, I would not plan on solid-mounting that nice solar panel. Get or make a nice adjustable tripod so you can plant it when you hit camp. Travel with it stored in a flat area inside, like on a bed or something.

Those things loose major efficiency when not pointed directly at the sun (or when parked in the shade), and they are easily susceptible to being damaged by tree branches, etc. if hard mounted on the coach.
Paul
'84 XJ, '19JL

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colemancooler
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Postby colemancooler » Wed Jun 20, 2012 7:53 pm

from what I have read it is not worth the extra effort to constantly move the solar panel to keep it facing the sun, It would suck to break it

Okay, here's where you have to make some decisions that will affect how much solar panel you buy. You can expect to gain about 20% extra charging capacity if you're real anal and point the panel right at the sun every 30 minutes or so. If you're lazy like me you can just lay the panel flat where it will get full sun and forget about it. Bump the panel sizes shown above up by 20% if you can't be bothered by angling the panel towards the sun. But watch out for any kind of shade on your panel. Just the tiniest, little bit of shading will cripple your panel's output.
from a knowledgeable person that has done it, Not me :wink:
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colemancooler
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Postby colemancooler » Fri Jun 22, 2012 5:04 pm

still slowly making progress, i am getting the walls insulated, and wood paneling on the walls inside, also got the door mocked up, and received my Led rope lights that I ordered on ebay For $9

Image

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I have talked to my sheet metal supplier and a 4'x10' sheet of aluminum is around $94, way too rich for my blood until I go back to work, but I still have a lot to do, with the parts I have
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Postby Burchae » Mon Aug 27, 2012 11:45 pm

benw wrote:You can just get the 3500 pound axle and use some lighter springs. The axle itself isn't going to affect the ride.

If you want it to ride smooth I would suggest using some nice led lights long toy ota or jeep springs instead of the super short trailer springs.

Use a drop axle flipped upside down for better ground clearance.



If I plan for long journey and on tough roads what kind of springs you will advice me?

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Postby Livin4Today » Mon Dec 03, 2012 9:29 am

Alright I'll say it where is the updated status report? It's been 4 months since the last one...
Lance

Building a capable off roader is easy, building a street legal one that you can wheel and then drive daily is the challenge...

2007 JKU, 7" RK lift, 40s, ARBs, 5.38s, Headers, Fox Coilovers, etc. http://www.Livin4Today.com

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colemancooler
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Postby colemancooler » Mon Dec 03, 2012 4:40 pm

I was waiting for nice weather to take Pics, but I have been lazy and Broke, I mounted the led tail lights under the frame and built flat bar guards to protect them, also had to re wire the tail lights because the used length of 7 wire I had had a short in it. the outside is skinned with 1/4 ply I just need to get off my but and build the doors and Keep saving $ for the aluminum skin
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Livin4Today
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Postby Livin4Today » Mon Dec 03, 2012 5:32 pm

colemancooler wrote:I was waiting for nice weather to take Pics, but I have been lazy and Broke, I mounted the led tail lights under the frame and built flat bar guards to protect them, also had to re wire the tail lights because the used length of 7 wire I had had a short in it. the outside is skinned with 1/4 ply I just need to get off my but and build the doors and Keep saving $ for the aluminum skin


We can't wait for nice days in the winter! Take some pics and share!
Lance

Building a capable off roader is easy, building a street legal one that you can wheel and then drive daily is the challenge...

2007 JKU, 7" RK lift, 40s, ARBs, 5.38s, Headers, Fox Coilovers, etc. http://www.Livin4Today.com


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