I have the heat/cool control for the HVAC on my 1997 Ford Exploder go out.
Here's a link to fix it very cheaply depending on how the top of the blend door breaks.
10 mins, a drill, and a nail saved me hundreds of dollars, or a tear down of the plenum that contains the door.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/7/085/article/Ford_Explorer_Blend_Door_Fix.html
Basically you pull out the actuator motor, drill a hold through the shaft the turns the blend door to control the temp, and stick a nail through it.
HVAC control not working on 97 Exploder..Problem Solved
HVAC control not working on 97 Exploder..Problem Solved
2004 TJ Wrangler X (Rubiclone)
2.5" OME Lift, 1.25 in Body Lift, Flat Fender Flares
35x12.50x15 Maxxis Razor MTs
D30 ARB 4.56s Rear JKD44 w/ 8.8 disk brakes Ford 9" goodies, 4.56 and ARB.
2.5" OME Lift, 1.25 in Body Lift, Flat Fender Flares
35x12.50x15 Maxxis Razor MTs
D30 ARB 4.56s Rear JKD44 w/ 8.8 disk brakes Ford 9" goodies, 4.56 and ARB.
Got another cheap fix for 1995-2001 Explorers or Rangers. If your dome lights don't shut off and your door ajar light stays on try the following.
1) Start the vehicle
2)Open each door and listen for a chime as your open it. For explorers, don't forget the rear door and upper glass door. The door that doesn't chime is your culprit.
3)Get out some WD40 with the straw. Spray a lot of it within the door latches. Open and close the door a few times.
4) This did it for me. The rear hatch glass made the chime sound when I opened it again. The Door Ajar light is now off too! If it doesn't work you may have a wiring issue. Apparently Ford decided to put the door plunger sensors INSIDE the latches where you need to pull the door panel to get to them. Try the WD40 first!
1) Start the vehicle
2)Open each door and listen for a chime as your open it. For explorers, don't forget the rear door and upper glass door. The door that doesn't chime is your culprit.
3)Get out some WD40 with the straw. Spray a lot of it within the door latches. Open and close the door a few times.
4) This did it for me. The rear hatch glass made the chime sound when I opened it again. The Door Ajar light is now off too! If it doesn't work you may have a wiring issue. Apparently Ford decided to put the door plunger sensors INSIDE the latches where you need to pull the door panel to get to them. Try the WD40 first!
2004 TJ Wrangler X (Rubiclone)
2.5" OME Lift, 1.25 in Body Lift, Flat Fender Flares
35x12.50x15 Maxxis Razor MTs
D30 ARB 4.56s Rear JKD44 w/ 8.8 disk brakes Ford 9" goodies, 4.56 and ARB.
2.5" OME Lift, 1.25 in Body Lift, Flat Fender Flares
35x12.50x15 Maxxis Razor MTs
D30 ARB 4.56s Rear JKD44 w/ 8.8 disk brakes Ford 9" goodies, 4.56 and ARB.
I figured as much but I really didn't feel like pulling apart the door cover on the rear glass hatch and spending the money on replacing the sensor at this point.
I bet if I put some penetrating oil in there it would last a lot longer. We'll see how long it lasts. This rig sat for 6 months before I got a hold of it. I had a feeling it was the glass latch because the door ajar light came on after the first time I have ever used it.
I bet if I put some penetrating oil in there it would last a lot longer. We'll see how long it lasts. This rig sat for 6 months before I got a hold of it. I had a feeling it was the glass latch because the door ajar light came on after the first time I have ever used it.
2004 TJ Wrangler X (Rubiclone)
2.5" OME Lift, 1.25 in Body Lift, Flat Fender Flares
35x12.50x15 Maxxis Razor MTs
D30 ARB 4.56s Rear JKD44 w/ 8.8 disk brakes Ford 9" goodies, 4.56 and ARB.
2.5" OME Lift, 1.25 in Body Lift, Flat Fender Flares
35x12.50x15 Maxxis Razor MTs
D30 ARB 4.56s Rear JKD44 w/ 8.8 disk brakes Ford 9" goodies, 4.56 and ARB.
Return to “Projects and Build-Ups”
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 48 guests