So you want to be a 4 wheeler. . .

[OldGreen]

We are getting more and more traffic on the site with people just getting started in our hobby. I thought it would be handy to have a thread that the new people could come to and get some pointers on how to get started. This thread is going to focus on building your FIRST 4x4 to take on typical Northwest trails.

First off, there are two schools of thought. YOUR way is likely the right way, but you will get a LOT of opinions here. The most important thing to remember is that you can do things any way you want to. However, in the end, it will pay to take the advice of those that have made the mistakes you are about to.

School 1: Build it "right" the first time.
School 2: Build as you go.

School 1 is wrong. Period. 2 reasons. The concept of "right" has everything to do with an individual's driving skill and intended use. How the heck could you possibly know that if it is your first rig? The other reason is that, in the unlikely event that you NAIL your perfect build from day 1, that you will still want to constantly evolve. A secondary issue is that the time and money spent on a complete build from the ground up can and do keep many people off of the trails. . .FOREVER.

School 2 is where it is at. You will learn to DRIVE first and then evolve your wheeler into something personal that just works with you and/or you'll throw it away and start over. Still another option is that you will realize that this isn't the sport for you and you'll take up basket weaving.

After you have decided on a platform (or you bought a Jeep/Toyota/LandRover/Scout/Samurai, etc and looked up this site on the internet), the next step is to make a plan.

The initial build is broken down into a few categories. We'll try and keep it simple and elegant as possible.

1. Safety and Recovery: Start here. Make sure that you have a steel cab and/or a decent cage. Seatbelts need to be in good shape. Make sure the vehicle is in good condition (tie rod ends, bushings, bearings, shocks, and all your maintenance items. Make sure to permanently mount a fire extinguisher and a first aid kit as well. There is another thread with all the options that you have of bringing stuff along elsewhere on the site (What's in the Bag on the General Forum). Now, make SURE you have good recovery points front and rear. Tow hooks to the frame and a receiver/shackle set up work just fine. Get a quality tow strap and/or a super yanker. If you are really sure about this 4 wheelin' thing, consider a winch. That should get you started.

2. Drivetrain: Just make sure it works and is reliable. It wouldn't hurt to put in 1 locking differential. Don't go dumping your money on programmers and cold air intakes and other useless crap at this point. Plenty of time for that later. We all do it...just wait for the right moment.

3. Ground clearance: Yes, you probably want to lift the new rig just a little. My advice? 2" to 3" on most rigs is plenty to start. All you are doing is improving your breakover/approach/departure angles and giving a little clearance for the next stage.

4. Traction: 31" or 32" tires. If you go bigger, you are opening up a whole can of worms with #1 above and putting a whole bunch of strain on your other parts. Yeah, you aren't going to look as cool as if you had 38s, but still. If you already have something like a JK, then your factory 32s are fine as long as you have the knobby ones. That said, a good radial mud terrain tire is all you need. BFG, Goodyear, General, etc. . .as long as they are specifically mud terains, then you should be golden. Again, a locker would be a nice addition (from #2 above)

Now, take all the money you just saved in your build and BURN GAS. Yep, learn to drive. This is not a contest of who can spend the most money to build a point and shoot monster truck. Heck, it isn't a contest at all. We just want to get way back in the woods and have a nice challenge with some good friends. The biggest benefit you can give yourself is to learn to drive in a basically stock wheeler. Spend a few years in the saddle and let the thing evolve under you. You 'll upgrade what you break, learn your limitations, and have a BLAST doing it. You will also take pride in hangin' with the big dogs AND will take a little bit of crap for being the "little guy"...that is, right up until you pull up to the top of the hill next to them.

I'm hoping that others add to this and that we can keep it up top for people to refer to as they come on board.

[iaccocca]

take pride in hangin' with the big dogs AND will take a little bit of crap for being the "little guy"...that is, right up until you pull up to the top of the hill next to them.

The best looking rig on the trail is the one on top of the hill. Good thread Jim, but it has had me considering basket weaving.

[iaccocca]

I like this thread. I will add my two cents, and this time I think it is worth at least double that. I don't have as much wheelin' experience as some on the board, but I have been at this awhile.

It would be hard to improve on Jim's post, but I'll double down on some of what he said. Best money spent is on gas (or diesel, if you are that lucky.) Get behind the wheel, follow the guys with experience (you will figure out who they are right away, and don't necessarily look at the size of their tires.)

Bare minimum, bring a shovel, a jack, fire extinguisher, and a 1st aid kit. The next most important piece of equipment is a sense of humor. I'm pretty sure the alternate name of our sport/hobby is $h!t happens. That's the name of the game.

If I call a run, the next thing I am looking for is recovery points front and rear. We can usually fake something on the rear, but the front needs dedicate recovery points; i.e. tow hooks properly installed.

Some of the equipment we use is actually dangerous. Don't try to figure out how to use your Hi-Lift Jack when you are catewompus on the trail. Don't unspool your winch for the first time the 1st time you are stuck. You need to know how to use these things ahead of time.

Recovery gear; look at the 'Whats in the bag' section for starters. And it is all cool stuff. Don't scrimp on it with cheap Harbor Freight stuff, unless you have to. I've blown more straps than Jimmy Carter has little liver pills. I'll let you learn from my experience.

And on winches, well that pull number, 12,000, 10,000, 8,000. I think that is the biggest hoax played on the American people since no-see-um mesh. Go for quality, go for a known name. I am of course, as anyone will tell you a Warn junky, but there is other quality stuff out there. I have every intention on going on a winching safety rant, but I will save that for later.

Cage it or trust your metal roof. You play at this long enough you are going over. Tie every thing down. Everything not tied down is actually aimed at your head or your passenger's head (scientific fact; look it up.)

And it has been said before, the internet is the devil! Get on Washington's trails (probably the best in the land) and then mod your rig to work for that. Most every mod I have made has come after a run. At Liberty I could not see over my hood at the top of hill climbs; BOOM seat risers. Cheap fix, huge difference.

And our game is more fun and safer if everyone has a CB properly tuned. If you want to play with us, reach out and we might even help you tune your antenna to your CB or there is a good radio shop in Pasco that will do it for not that much.

And I will leave you with this, if you need a snorkel, you better be able to tell us why.