PEAK PUTTERS

Can't seem to pass up jeeps if they only cost


Picked this one up in Moses Lake last night.





1995 Grand Cherokee Laredo
4.0, 42RE, Dana 35, 249 Full time case
185k Miles

The body is in pretty darn good shape, though one the rear fenders is a bit mooshed. Think if I get bored I'll take the body hammer kit to it and see what happens.

The guy had it listed for $650. The price was so low I had to go take a look. Fluids were all clean, it started right up and sounded great.

Took it for a drive and noticed that it seemed to be grabbing the road pretty tight. I think the viscous coupler is probably close to the end of it's life. Also, the overdrive seemed to be finicky, and some of the upshifts were a bit hard. The owner had just changed the fluid, and said it was really dirty. I figured the transmission was probably on it's way out and talked the guy down to $350.

Decided to drive it home, figured if it didn't make it I'd just go get my trailer. Stopped about halfway back to check everything. Fluids were all good so I headed back on down the road. Unfortunately it wouldn't go back into overdrive no matter what I did. I didn't care at that point so I drove it the rest of the way home at a slower pace to keep the RPMs down.

After looking at things this morning I discovered that the extra bottles of fluid the previous owner left in the back of the jeep were Dextron/Mercon.



I'm gonna try and flush the system a couple times with ATF +3 and see if stuff starts working like it should. There were no codes stored on the TCM. Hopefully that's the issue, and my driving it home didn't fry it.

If not, the current plan is to source a cheap used 42re and a 242 to swap in. That or an AW4, gonna have to research that.

Don't waste time/money on fluids just yet - I'd bet dollars to donuts it's the TPS. The TCU uses input from the TPS to control shifts, and if the TPS is not giving the correct output signal, well you're familiar with the term "garbage in garbage out"... Do a little searching on the Googlez to find the procedure for testing the TPS, it's extremely simple 0-5v ramping, I just can't remember which way is which for idle vs. WOT. If voltage ramping is not smooth throughout the range, the TPS is junk. As with most parts for Jeeps of this era, they are dirt cheap and available pretty much anywhere.

As for that grabby issue, you're probably dead on with the viscous coupling. VERY common issues with those cases. Start saving for a 231/242 swap and enjoy yet another good score

tobyw wrote:Don't waste time/money on fluids just yet - I'd bet dollars to donuts it's the TPS. The TCU uses input from the TPS to control shifts, and if the TPS is not giving the correct output signal, well you're familiar with the term "garbage in garbage out"... Do a little searching on the Googlez to find the procedure for testing the TPS, it's extremely simple 0-5v ramping, I just can't remember which way is which for idle vs. WOT. If voltage ramping is not smooth throughout the range, the TPS is junk. As with most parts for Jeeps of this era, they are dirt cheap and available pretty much anywhere.

As for that grabby issue, you're probably dead on with the viscous coupling. VERY common issues with those cases. Start saving for a 231/242 swap and enjoy yet another good score

Good points, that's where I was going to start until I saw that the wrong fluid had been used. It's sitting in the garage now, I've been messing with the tv cable and output speed sensor. Think I'll look at the TPS next.

I already bought fluid, so I think I'll still pump the old stuff out. I don't think having dextron in there is going to do anything good.

Well, I thought I lucked out....


Toby was right, the TPS was bad. Voltage cut out completely above 1/4 throttle. Grabbed a new one from the parts store, .65v at idle and 3.67 at WOT. The WOT spec seems a bit low, but I've been unable to find a FSM yet, so I'm relying on secondhand testing procedures.

After the TPS switch I dropped the pan to take a look at things. Found some metal shavings and the standard metal goo.



The previous owner also forgot to put the magnet back in as well. Picked one up from the hardware store and reinstalled the pan.

Unfortunately, the test drive was unsuccessful. No OD, and occasionally no 3rd gear. It also jumped into neutral a couple times but I'm unsure if that's the transmission or the really, really sloppy shifter.

Still no codes on the TCM, on the engine computer I'm getting a 41 (generator circuit problem), but the alternator is operating within specs. I'm gonna clear the code and see if it comes back.

i say junkyard replacement trans a 231, and be on your way, or cruise craigslist plenty of the grands being parted lately

79chevy39.5's wrote:i say junkyard replacement trans a 231, and be on your way, or cruise craigslist plenty of the grands being parted lately

Yeah, I think that's how it's going to go. I have a TJ 231 sitting in the barn, but I'll have to look up input shaft lengths and clocking. I'd really like to have a 242, or even a good 249 (probably not gonna find one of those). AWD is what makes the GC shine in my mind.

I did find a factory service manual, so I'm going to fix the linkage, and then do some TCM and solenoid testing. One last round of free fixes to see if its something silly. I'm not that hopefull though.

Scumby,
that guy has been parting out that Grand for a few months now. I took the front axle about two months ago, and it had no drivetrain left back then.

Wrench wrote:Scumby,
that guy has been parting out that Grand for a few months now. I took the front axle about two months ago, and it had no drivetrain left back then.

Good to know. I messaged him but hadn't heard qnything back yet. Theres a 97 in yakima, but I need to do some research to figure out what years are compatible.

I'm pretty sure the transmission is toast. Cleaned up all of the electrical connections and tried unsuccessfully to tighten up the shifter linkage. I think the shifter on the transmission side of things is pretty much wore out.

Once again couldn't get it into 3rd gear, and it was a pain to get into second as well. The last thing I can think to do would be to grab a bunch of indicator lights, hook them to the harness, and see where/if the power is making it to the various solenoids.

Switching gears here, I don't want to mess with the 42RE anymore, and finding a good one that's cheap doesn't seem to be possible. There's lots of bad ones out there, and a smaller number with super high miles. Super high for a 42RE seems to be 150k+

I'm going to swap in an AW4. Talking to a guy in Benton city now who has a 95xj being parted out.



Here's what I think I know:

The AW4 and 42RE are really close to the same length, so I shouldn't need to mess with drivelines.

The stock crossmember should work, I just need an AW4 tranny mount.

I think my current NP249 should mate up correctly, spline count and length should be the same. If not, the 242 upgrade will happen sooner rather than later.


Parts I should need:

AW4
Torque Converter
Dust Cover
Flexplate & bolts
Bellhousing bolts
TCU & pigtails
Linkage Brackets
Floor Shifter? The ZJ looks different than a TJ/XJ
XJ Shift Cable
XJ TV Cable

I'm guessing that wiring the computers up to talk to each other should be possible, I did it in my wrangler. If not I guess I can go full manual control with a rail shifter and torque converter lockup button.

Anyone see any obvious glaring flaws in this plan?

Sounds like a cool project, the AW4 is a great transmission.

I did a little bit of research on the floor shifters when I had the 5.2/46rh YJ that JAFO ended up with, and if I remember correctly the XJ and ZJ shifters can interchange without issue... I'm not 100% certain, but that seems to ring a bell. Probably at least worth a few minutes on the Googlez to save some $$ if possible?

Good luck!!

Dale, I think I have a Zj shifter in my bucket of goodness you can have.

http://kpr.craigslist.org/pts/4265981175.html

Reman AW4 on Craigslist costs as much as your Jeep lol....

This ones even better Trans/Tcase 241J

http://kpr.craigslist.org/pts/4265970047.html

Dang, I don't know how I missed those. Search Tempest must be having some problems. Thanks!

That 242 is exactly what I need. A reman AW4 would be nice, but I tracked one down, with the computer and all the other parts I need for $125. The one I'm getting is high mileage, but getting everything else I need for the swap makes it worth it.

You will need a switch for the lockup. If you have any questions about the aw4 contact backwoods offroad, they are hella cool cats to talk to.
They are in kalamath falls.

Jafo wrote:You will need a switch for the lockup. If you have any questions about the aw4 contact backwoods offroad, they are hella cool cats to talk to.
They are in kalamath falls.

I've collected factor service manuals for 95 Cherokee's and Grand Cherokees. I haven't looked at the wiring diagrams that closely yet, but I'm think that if I have a trans computer I can get it to talk with the ECU well enough that it will be able to lock up the converter on it's own. I plan on making everything work right, shifting, lockup, even the cruise control.

ODBI systems are generally pretty simple, could be wrong though.

3 toggle switches and you can control converter lockup, and choose whatever gear you want, whenever you want it. You'd be doing well to bump up the tension on the accumulators too so the clutches last longer.


I spent hours and hours researching this stuff when I put and aw4 behind my yota engine years ago.

While scrounging Pasco Auto Wrecking for my transmission conversion I ran across a 93 Grand Cherokee with a stock AW4 (this was the only year that had them).

The drivelines were u-joints instead of CV's like mine sadly is. The rear shaft looked like it had lost several fights with some gigantic boulders, but the front was good.

What would it take to swap out that driveline? Pulling the shaft and yoke is obvious, but what about putting it all back together? I'm thinking that removing a yoke will mess with the pinion setup.

Is the above actually worth doing, how bad are the CV drivelines? Don't think I'm going to be lifting this rig, but it will probably go off-road a time or two.

Well, PAW wanted $80 for that front shaft, and wouldn't sell me just the yoke, so I'm keeping my stock shafts and getting them shortened/lengthened.

So, dumb question. I'm looking at my front driveshaft:





I need to shorten it a couple inches, and I'm wondering if I couldn't just loosen that plastic nut and either just push the CV end in further, or if that doesn't work just cut off some of the splined portion and reassemble. Is that what that nut there is for?

Just as a note to anyone who is wondering, you can't simply shorten/lengthen the shaft by adjusting the above nut. It's kind of a one time thing done at the factory, which destroys a bushing you can't buy. So I'm getting my drivelines done the old fashioned way at a machine shop.



Now, since I worked way to late to make it to the Blue Mountain meeting tonight I figured I'd post a quick update on what I'm up to on this thing.

The old transmission is out:



The new transmission and transfer case are in, though I seem to have forgotten to take a picture. I'll get it tomorrow.

The new wiring harness is coming right along. I've actually got a good portion of it installed now - TCU is in the center console. More pictures on this stuff tomorrow as well.



I'm adding a few electrical things. TCU, CB radio, new headlights, ect... So another fuse box was in order. Installed a 6 port blue sea blade fuse box:

After putting in the fuse box I switched gears and decided to go to work on the headlights.

This isn't the cheapest mod, but the stock lights sucked and I like being able to see where I'm going. Unlike a TJ, from what I found HID's in halogen housing are really hard to get to work well without blinding people. So I'm installing projectors.

If you go with a kit, the shopping list is pretty short. I decided a kit was easiest, I could have pieced things together, and used some cheaper brands for the ballasts and such - but this way is quick. I think I've spent three hours on the lights, and they just need to be put on the vehicle, which should only take 20 minutes or so.

Shopping List:

Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (H1)

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/comple ... z-GYGdOWUk

Cheapo Clear Ebay Housings

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350947348056?it ... 60&vxp=mtr

Here's a picture with the part numbers and such:




First step in the actual install involves removing the clear lenses from the ebay housing. You want clear lenses, projectors and ribbed lenses will diffuse too much light and blind people. I heated up a teakettle's worth of water to boiling, let it sit for a minutes then poured it into the housing. After letting that sit for a couple minutes I was able to pry off the lenses with a screwdriver without much trouble.

Here's the only other mod you need to do if you're using my shopping list. Cut off part of the original bulb plug area below the lugs with a hacksaw.



You can then install the supplied washer:



The projector housing install is incredibly simple. I don't have a picture of the silicone washer that goes on the back of the housing to provide a seal, but you can imagine it. Stick the housing through the hole, and then tighten it down with the supplied nut.



Here's the nut, with the bulb holder plate screwed down, forgot to take a picture before I added the plate.



Here's the projector in the housing. There are a bunch of different shrouds you can install on the projector, I just went with the default choice cause I'm boring that way.





Once everything is tightened up add some fresh butyl rubber glue, which comes with the kit:



I also added a dab on the hi/low solenoid wires. There was already a drain hole there for the wires, super easy.




After you've got the new glue put in place, you need to heat it up. Popping it in the oven for 7 minutes at 270 degrees seems to be the standard, and it's what I did. Worked great, though things are a bit hot, I suggest taking it out of the oven with some paper towels. Push the lens back on and you're pretty much done.




Just in case anyone wants to know, stock headlights are incredibly easy to remove, though I had to look it up. I thought I was going to have to remove the grill. There are only 2 screws, so that you can get the side markers out of the way. Once those are removed, you just pull the lights out. They're held in with three studs.





Install your bulbs:



I can get some pictures of the wiring harness tomorrow, but it's pretty much self explanatory. Everything just plugs in. Ballasts, relays, bulbs ect.. all have their own connectors. Then it just needs a ground wire, power wire, and you plug it all into one of the OEM headlight connectors so that it can be controlled.


It is incredibly bright. These are only 35 watts, but I think it's doing an even better job than the cheapo 55 watt hid's in my TJ.





I should finish the rest of the wiring tomorrow, then I'll just be waiting on the drivelines to get gone at the shop. Can't wait to get this thing out on the road.

Pretty cool Dale...

A few more pictures just because.

Passenger side relay and ballast tucked behind the battery:



Driver side ballast. Really, who uses brackets when giant zip ties are available?



Installed, and front bumper finally removed the rest of the way. Hopefully my metal will be done at the plasma cutter this coming week and I can get it welded up.



These things are stupid bright. I was able to do final aiming and adjustments in daylight.




The transmission computer as it will sit under the console:



Super grommet. I really like these things, they seal really well, secure your wires, and are so much easier to work with than actual grommets. Also, used cars are rather gross. I think I will be getting this thing detailed first thing after it's all together and running.



This will get tucked up really tight to the body, might even tack weld some sort of brackets to keep things neat:




Look, there actually is a transmission under there. If you're using a 93-95 cross member, all of the 42RE transmission mounts, plates, and exhaust mounts all work with the AW4 with no modifications.

I've been really bad at updating my build threads.

The Cherokee is up and running.

After going over a several service manuals I was able to piece together a wiring diagram that should work for any 93-96 ZJ. 97-98 Will have a few more wires that need connecting.





The above will completely fool your engine computer. No check engine lights, and Everything works as it should. Speedometer, Cruise Control, Overdrive and torque converter lockup are all functional and automatic.