'14 JK Rubicon Skid Plates?

[4 LOW]

I have been given advice to add some skid protection to my stock Rubicon and think that's a good idea since I am planning trips to Moab this fall and next Spring. I want something that bolts on without modification to the Jeep and will allow oil changes without removal of the plates. This is a daily driver so the plates cannot cause vibration or new noises. I plan to add plates in this order:

1) Oil, engine, tranny plate (manual transmission)
2) Evap
3) Transfer case
4) Fuel tank

My number one pick from my research is Rock Hard skids. I want to make sure that whatever I get will work later with a 3" lift if I ever get to that point. I really don't know what else to consider... thoughts/suggestions?

[cannedmulder]

I need to know too. Need skid plates too........my hubby has some already in mind but $1500 seems alot? Is that about right?

[tobyw]

Just my (free) opinion, take it for what you paid for it... I wouldn't' spend a dime on aftermarket JK skid plates other than the evap canister. Instead, spend the money on fuel and learn how to drive your JK to avoid the need for them. That's right kids, I know it's against everything Quadratec and the innerwebz tell you, but if you know how to drive your rig you can typically avoid the need for heavy, bulky, and expensive aftermarket skids. Again, just my opinion. Now back to your regularly scheduled programming

[White trash]

Just my (free) opinion, take it for what you paid for it... I wouldn't' spend a dime on aftermarket JK skid plates other than the evap canister. Instead, spend the money on fuel and learn how to drive your JK to avoid the need for them. That's right kids, I know it's against everything Quadratec and the innerwebz tell you, but if you know how to drive your rig you can typically avoid the need for heavy, bulky, and expensive aftermarket skids. Again, just my opinion. Now back to your regularly scheduled programming

This man speaketh much truth.


Sure you can smack your rig upside the windshield frame with your wallet all day long and then just bounce and bee bop along the trails without much worry about how the underside is doing. Or you can take the advice from someone that has been wheeling more than 15 minutes and learn to drive your rig. Take the easier trails, take bypasses and enjoy your vehicle as you learn your and it's limitations.

There is no bolt on experience and seat time available through any mail order company.

[4 LOW]

That's interesting as I have always been a believer in "practice makes perfect"...but, the suggestion actually came from a club member and not the Internet or Quadratec...

I would be really happy to not spend any money on plates, but I also don't want to be learning the "hard way" because my driving sucks.

So, given that, only the evap canister needs some better protection?

[White trash]

That's interesting as I have always been a believer in "practice makes perfect"...but, the suggestion actually came from a club member and not the Internet or Quadratec...

I would be really happy to not spend any money on plates, but I also don't want to be learning the "hard way" because my driving sucks.

So, given that, only the evap canister needs some better protection?

If the suggestion came from someone in the club that has a "JKU" than it did come from the internet and/or quadratec.

If I remember right the evap canister hangs down low so yes, either move it if you can or put a skid plate under it. As for the rest of it I'd just learn your lines and have fun.

[tobyw]

There is no bolt on experience and seat time available through any mail order company.

Quick deposit into the memory bank for that one...

Having built and wheeled a couple of JKU's in my time, I'd say yes the evap canister is the only thing you really need to worry about if you start by making wise choices in terms of trails and your driving skill. If you've got an auto Rubi, it's already equipped with a factory trans skid (non-Rubi's may be as well, not sure as my 'X' was a 6-speed) that is actually pretty robust. The fuel tank is poly and also has a factory bash plate (yes it's thin but it does work quiet well), so a little push and shove on it won't hurt a bit. Much more than that and you're just adding weight, complexity, and a place for mud/muck/grime to hide.

If Moab is your goal, you are certainly in luck as there aren't too many trails with rocks that will roll around and/or reach up and grab you. Instead the Moab area is full of beautiful slickrock "blobs" that you ease around on, testing your mettle in terms of pucker factor and not so much the build quality (or quantity) of your rig. A relatively stock JK Rubi can spank 95% of Moab.

[Yrjan]

That's interesting as I have always been a believer in "practice makes perfect"...but, the suggestion actually came from a club member and not the Internet or Quadratec...

I would be really happy to not spend any money on plates, but I also don't want to be learning the "hard way" because my driving sucks.

So, given that, only the evap canister needs some better protection?

If the suggestion came from someone in the club that has a "JKU" than it did come from the internet and/or quadratec.

If I remember right the evap canister hangs down low so yes, either move it if you can or put a skid plate under it. As for the rest of it I'd just learn your lines and have fun.

Only skid you really need is the Evap skid. The oil pan is nice (ask Doug) but not nessisary. It's the only one I have and I have done just fine.

[OldGreen]

Another vote for spending every cent of upgrade money on fuel for the next 20 or so wheelin' trips (well, and carne asada. . .nom nom).

This evap thingy sounds like a good bet too.

With the JK-R, Jeep finally built something from the factory that mirrors what I have been telling people that want to get started for years. 32" tires, lockers. . .GO! The rest will figure itself out one thing at a time.

[4 LOW]

Thanks all. Is the Evap canister in the same spot on a 2 door and 4 door? My rubicon is a manual tranny.

Just to clarify, it is a Rubicon X, not the older 'X'.

[cannedmulder]

My husband says they are in the same place.

I told my husband I thought just driving and learning, as I am a very cautious learner anyway, that is the way I thought it should go. I don't have $1500 for skid plates but I don't want to sit and wait until we have skid plates on it! Why did I buy a rig that is ready to go if I can't drive it?

Someone tell my husband all this.....oh wait I will just have him read this thread!!

[klinger]

Ok I read the thread. Anyone know if we can move the evap without throwing a half dozen codes. I'll probably still run a oil pan skid. Had a freak occurrence happen on my tj which took out the pan. Stupid lava rocks.

[4 LOW]

I had read that some dealers might give an owner grief if we relocate it versus just adding a skid. I really don't want to argue warranty versus non-warranty with a dealer so I am going to look for a skid. Think Rock Hard makes one...

[4 LOW]

http://www.rockhard4x4.com/product_p/rh-6005.htm

[DougCampbell]

So........I would seriously think about the oil pan to tranny pan skid. I had to replace my oil pan. I put a small dent in it out in Weber canyon.(only had the jeep for 6 weeks.) The oil pick up is amazingly close to the bottom of the VERY small oil pan. Don't look at the crappy Rancho bolt over pan, but look at rockhard or one of the others. It should only be around $300 or so. My 2013 sport has an evap canister skid from the factory, and the skid plate over the fuel tank took a pretty good beating out at weber canyon. It held up pretty well. The oil pan on the 3.6l is very small, only a couple of inches deep, not much room for error.
Also the rocker panels are pretty delicate. got rock rash on those too.
Adding a lift and bigger tires should be on your short list. I know, I know..... learn your rig. No need to go crazy though!

[Livin4Today]

If the suggestion came from someone in the club that has a "JKU" than it did come from the internet and/or quadratec.

If I remember right the evap canister hangs down low so yes, either move it if you can or put a skid plate under it. As for the rest of it I'd just learn your lines and have fun.

What do mean by "you people?"

I'm not sure as to the referenced club member, but I would agree with the above, but being perhaps overly cautious I chose both an evap & oil pan skids...

[Grumpy]

Trashy Pants lives!!

[Livin4Today]

My husband says they are in the same place.

I told my husband I thought just driving and learning, as I am a very cautious learner anyway, that is the way I thought it should go. I don't have $1500 for skid plates but I don't want to sit and wait until we have skid plates on it! Why did I buy a rig that is ready to go if I can't drive it?

Someone tell my husband all this.....oh wait I will just have him read this thread!!

Where does the $1500 figure come from? Are you armor plating the entire bottom of the Jeep? I spent a grand total of $60 on my pan skid, and maybe a little more for my evap. Althought, I believe most newer 12+ have evap skids! but I could be mistaken.

Spend that extra dough on putting distance between those things that you fear and your under belly, ie get some amount of lift (actual suspension not body). You'd be amazed at how much stress it relieves...

[Livin4Today]

Trashy Pants lives!!

Grump I expected more from you, than cheerleading...

For the noob JK-ites(Re:White Trash)...

He's not trying to be insulting, he just doesn't play we'll with others, so I think it just comes out wrong...

He is a forum member, rumored to have vast knowledge in off-roading, yet in my meager 2 yrs of membership I've never met or seen him on any trail or at any meetings.

Distance and time away from the professed expertise means you must decide for yourself if his info is valid or not...

[Grumpy]

Gawd, I wish I could find words to describe Ryan Annoying, curmudgeon, knowledgeable, Yota nut, give you his shirt if you need it, semi anti social, not a joiner, will wheel your arse off, friend, painfully blunt, etc. Like all advice, WT's is to be taken as offered, and judged on it's merit...Let the blowback begin

[Danny]

For the non believers WT is the real deal. You can take what he has to say to the bank. Ye non believers look out!!

[White trash]

Trashy Pants lives!!

Yup still kicking, heard you've been visiting with dr's a lot lately. We'll have to get over for a visit soon, probably weekend after this coming since I've got an engine to rebuild and install this weekend.

I've been stupid busy trying to make up for the wifes lack of income as we deal with her physical therapy from that old dude pulling in front of her semi. Speaking of which it just came back from the body shop today. It's amazing how much better the truck looks after $30k was spent rebuilding it from the firewall forward.


A "JKU"=yj=bronco=Toyota=land rover=Scout.... Well ok maybe not Scout ( ) but they all have the vast majority of things in common. Physics, gravity and geometry don't give a rats hind quarters what brand is on the registration.

[Grumpy]

Yeah, too many doctors to suit me!! Seems having an aneurysm show up on an MRI sets all kinds of alarms off Holler when you want to head over and I'll send the new 10-20 to you...And yes, ScoutII's have the added challenge of dealing with a bit of extra girth over the front axle. For those of you not up on your SII anatomy lessons, when fully dressed, the 345ci SV8 in my '74 will top out at around 760 lbs. And it's in a rig with a 100" wheel base.

[White trash]

Yup a dressed Scout engine weighs more than a big block chevy and puts out less horse power than a lawnmower.

[OldGreen]

A "JKU"=yj=bronco=Toyota=land rover=Scout.... Well ok maybe not Scout ( ) but they all have the vast majority of things in common. Physics, gravity and geometry don't give a rats hind quarters what brand is on the registration.

TRUTH!!!

Except that I don't know how much a rat's behind is worth. . .