I'm dreaming of a white YJ Christmas...

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bobracing
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Postby bobracing » Tue Dec 30, 2014 9:57 pm

In the back, did you just use the stock upper mounts and new tabs on the axle?
James
'92 YJ with a little something of everything.

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scumby
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Postby scumby » Wed Dec 31, 2014 5:19 am

so, it's ready to wheel
Lightly Lifted and Locked LJ

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Wrench
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Postby Wrench » Wed Dec 31, 2014 7:34 am

bobracing wrote:In the back, did you just use the stock upper mounts and new tabs on the axle?


I assume you are referring to the shock mounts? Yes, that is what the previous owner did. In order to use the shocks he had installed (12" travel), I will have to install an outboard shock kit that is frenched into the frame. The way he had them installed, there was barely 2" of chrome showing on the shock at ride height. :shock:

Scumby,
I need to shift the engine forward ~2" to eliminate drive shaft binding at full suspension extension.

Other little crap to do:
-locate and install windshield washer fluid bottle/pump
-fix dash wiring (no heater fan response)
-relocate stereo back to dash and remove rats-nest of wiring on passenger side
-figure out how to stretch a soft-top so I can snap/zip it all back in place
-figure out a fix for the shift boots being too stiff and interfering with shifting
-find replacement bolts for the missing ones on the windshield hinge (countersunk torx bolts)

I have ordered my 5.13 gears for the Dana 44's. I'll be prepping them soon for install. I horse-traded for a Spartan in the front, and snagged a full spool for the rear ($40 on Ebay, couldnt pass it up).
Paul
'84 XJ, '19JL

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Roman
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Postby Roman » Wed Dec 31, 2014 11:54 am

Regular counter sunk screws work.

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Livin4Today
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Postby Livin4Today » Wed Dec 31, 2014 12:03 pm

Wrench wrote:-figure out how to stretch a soft-top so I can snap/zip it all back in place


Heat is the only thing that helps and then a couple of helpers with beer...

That's how we got Lee's Trektop NX on...
Lance

Building a capable off roader is easy, building a street legal one that you can wheel and then drive daily is the challenge...

2007 JKU, 7" RK lift, 40s, ARBs, 5.38s, Headers, Fox Coilovers, etc. http://www.Livin4Today.com

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iaccocca
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Postby iaccocca » Wed Dec 31, 2014 12:11 pm

Livin4Today wrote:
Wrench wrote:-figure out how to stretch a soft-top so I can snap/zip it all back in place


Heat is the only thing that helps and then a couple of helpers with beer...

That's how we got Lee's Trektop NX on...


...all 3 times.
Okay, we're a little crazy to have a Duramax for a daily driver. But if we go off our meds, we might wind up in a Prius.
If you want to hear God laugh, tell Him your plans.
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Wrench
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Postby Wrench » Wed Dec 31, 2014 5:44 pm

Anyone ever treated there soft top with something like Mink Oil?
Paul
'84 XJ, '19JL

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Thu Jan 01, 2015 12:17 am

Cool project. Lots of YJ stuff going on lately.

Never tried mink oil on a soft top. Bestop had a conditioner that worked pretty good. Affordable detail over in Kennewick had some sort of water based coating that brought my old soft top back to life. Kept it looking good for a long time.

Wrench
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Postby Wrench » Tue Jan 06, 2015 4:42 pm

Progress:
-shifted the engine and tranny fwd two inches, all drivelines working well through suspension travel.
-fabricated new rear shock mounts for full travel.
-installed stainless countersunk screws in windshield
-washer bottle on order
-found dash wiring hacked for unknown purposes, need to repair

Other little crap to still do:
-install windshield washer fluid bottle/pump
-fix dash wiring (no heater fan response)
-relocate stereo back to dash and remove rats-nest of wiring on passenger side
-stretch soft-top so I can snap/zip it all back in place
-figure out a fix for the shift boots being too stiff and interfering with shifting
-repair spare tire mount
Paul
'84 XJ, '19JL

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bobracing
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Postby bobracing » Tue Jan 06, 2015 5:00 pm

What did you do with the rear shock? Got pictures?
This has been one of my problem areas of getting a long enough shock without hanging it below the axle.
James
'92 YJ with a little something of everything.

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scumby
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Postby scumby » Tue Jan 06, 2015 5:02 pm

scumby wrote:so, it's ready to wheel


the heater might be the switch or the resistor in the heater box.
Lightly Lifted and Locked LJ

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Jafo
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Postby Jafo » Tue Jan 06, 2015 6:09 pm

scumby wrote:
scumby wrote:so, it's ready to wheel


the heater might be the switch or the resistor in the heater box.


Or it's not plugged in.. under battery tray there is a plugin
2018 JLU-R work in progress.


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scumby
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Postby scumby » Tue Jan 06, 2015 8:02 pm

Forgot they were that way on yjs too
Lightly Lifted and Locked LJ

I'm Scumby Dammit, take it or leave it!

Wrench
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Postby Wrench » Thu Jan 08, 2015 7:27 am

The wiring has been hacked, it appears the stereo install and aftermarket lighting they had on there was wired by an amateur. The plug on the back of the fan control switch was completely removed and has a cut wire. I pulled the dash face off last night to get a complete evaluation.

As for the shocks:
-I took some 1/4" steel plate and cut strips approximately 2" wide by 8" long. I rounded one end and welded a shock mount bolt in the center of the round. I made two straight cuts across the width half-way through the metal so I could bend it to desired "z" shape, then welded the cuts after bending. I then welded these to the frame inline with the installed shock at ride height, tucking the upper end up as far as it would go without contacting the body, and still leaving just enough clearance for the shock to be removed from the bolt.

Here is the drivers side, which required relocation of the fuel filter. The passenger side fit with no mods.

Image

If you have a body lift, you will have even more room and wont need to lay the shock at so much of an angle. According to my measurements, the shock should bottom out right when the axle mount plate contacts the factory bump stop, though it will be almost horizontal at that point. Not ideal, but gives me full travel. Running the shocks outboard on the rear is not an option for leaf spring setup with stock axle width. There is not enough room for the shock between the spring and wheel.
Last edited by Wrench on Thu Jan 08, 2015 7:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
Paul
'84 XJ, '19JL

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Postby OldGreen » Thu Jan 08, 2015 7:29 am

How much did you gain? That is a great mod.

Wrench
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Postby Wrench » Thu Jan 08, 2015 7:42 am

The shocks have more extension than needed, but the springs limit the flex. At full extension, I am measuring just over 12" between axle and bump stop.

If my measurements are correct, 36" tires will contact the fenders just as the bump stops hit also. I am planning on putting 36" Iroks on it.
Last edited by Wrench on Thu Jan 08, 2015 12:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Paul
'84 XJ, '19JL

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bobracing
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Postby bobracing » Thu Jan 08, 2015 8:32 am

Thank you for the pictures and explanation.

How long of a shock did you end up using?
James
'92 YJ with a little something of everything.

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Postby Wrench » Thu Jan 08, 2015 12:23 pm

Those have 12" of travel, they came on the Jeep. I suspect a 10" would be ideal, and still net around 12" of axle travel at a little bit less of an angle than I used.

There are commercially made brackets that bolt on that do basically the same thing I did, but a little less shock angle. I suspect they work real well with 10" shocks. I like to build stuff myself, though.
Paul
'84 XJ, '19JL

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bobracing
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Postby bobracing » Thu Jan 08, 2015 1:03 pm

There are commercially made brackets


And at $100 a set, not going to happen on my rig.

Thanks for the shock length. Been busy with other stuff and haven't remembered to measure for the shocks
James
'92 YJ with a little something of everything.

Wrench
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Postby Wrench » Thu Jan 08, 2015 9:14 pm

:?

Well, I repaired the wiring for the fan motor. My test light indicates there is good power and ground to the motor leads now, but still no fan operation. Bummer.

While I have the dash apart, I would like to fix the under-dash / dome light wiring. I was thinking of just getting LED strip lights and splicing them in to replace the under-dash lights. Also, there are no door switches, which may have been removed by the previous owner. How did Jeep wire these originally? How did they disable them if the doors were removed? Any suggestions on cheap LED strip lighting would also be appreciated.
Paul
'84 XJ, '19JL

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Jafo
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Postby Jafo » Thu Jan 08, 2015 9:25 pm

Paul, I'm not possitive but I don't think yj's had door switches, mine didn't. They also didn't have a overhead light, but you can wire one in on a switch.
2018 JLU-R work in progress.


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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Thu Jan 08, 2015 9:28 pm

Wrench wrote::?

Well, I repaired the wiring for the fan motor. My test light indicates there is good power and ground to the motor leads now, but still no fan operation. Bummer.

While I have the dash apart, I would like to fix the under-dash / dome light wiring. I was thinking of just getting LED strip lights and splicing them in to replace the under-dash lights. Also, there are no door switches, which may have been removed by the previous owner. How did Jeep wire these originally? How did they disable them if the doors were removed? Any suggestions on cheap LED strip lighting would also be appreciated.


Try beating the fan motor with a pipe wrench. That's how I got my tj fan going again. :lol:

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Roman
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Postby Roman » Thu Jan 08, 2015 11:36 pm

Jafo is correct on the "sans" dome light, but i think most YJ's had door pins. (87's maybe not)

I like to go overbuild/over think (call it what you want) when I build, so my dome light is wired into the dash light dimmer control.
The stock under dash lights didn't work, and are pathetic at best. And LED's weren't readily available at the time so I spent the $20 on a Steel Horse dome light. For old school back-up light technology, the thing rocks! I plan to use the same one when I build the Scrambler. You can buy the SAME light from Schmuck's for about $7 without the fancy "tube adapter" base so you can just zip tie it on to the cage, but this tight wad might splurge since the first one has worked so we for me!

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scumby
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Postby scumby » Fri Jan 09, 2015 5:44 am

if in fact it did have under dash/dome lights (i thought my 95 did) the door switch completes the NEG side of the circuit when the door is opened. to disable the circuit the wire was simply removed from the back of the switch so it did not provide the ground.
Lightly Lifted and Locked LJ

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Wrench
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Postby Wrench » Fri Jan 09, 2015 6:42 am

scumby wrote:if in fact it did have under dash/dome lights (i thought my 95 did) the door switch completes the NEG side of the circuit when the door is opened. to disable the circuit the wire was simply removed from the back of the switch so it did not provide the ground.


Yep, ground-seeking circuit. It has one light under the dash on the drivers side, a light connector but no light on the passenger side, and another connector on the passenger side that has a spade stuck in it that looks like it broke off a door switch. This connector turns the existing drivers side light on when it touches ground. There are holes in the door frames on both doors where it appears there may have been switches at one time. The hole in the drivers side has a silhouette in the sprayed-on bedliner that looks like there may have been a switch there, but the passenger side hole was filled with bedliner. This is why I was curious about the factory setup.
Paul
'84 XJ, '19JL


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