PEAK PUTTERS

Dangit, the pics didn't come out, will try to post them again later. Sorry.

OK, got photos to load, so here is "Project Fordor" as named by Ford in 1931. as mentioned before it will get new paint, engine/trans combo, rear axle, interior and a few custom touches.

That's a sweet project.

I've always loved suicide doors.

Suicides were one selling point. Did anyone know that there is .1" difference between a '31 fordor and an LJ wheelbase? Kinda makes you think doesn't it?

That's some really cool shop fun.

scumby wrote: Did anyone know that there is .1" difference between a '31 fordor and an LJ wheelbase? Kinda makes you think doesn't it?

Sounds like a fun project! So....gonna find a wrecked LJ and swap this body on?

Needs a 3.8 SC engine and AOD in it

Grumpy wrote:Needs a 3.8 SC engine and AOD in it

why do you think i was inquiring? it needs re-engined but have not done enough research to find a stand alone ECU for the engine and trans. what's your bottom line?

Sweet ride. In what style are you gonna build it. Honestly I think it would be sweet with a buick nailhead with a hydromatic and a set of cheaters out back.[/img]

Wrench wrote:

scumby wrote: Did anyone know that there is .1" difference between a '31 fordor and an LJ wheelbase? Kinda makes you think doesn't it?

Sounds like a fun project! So....gonna find a wrecked LJ and swap this body on?

I think the rear frame hump over the axle of an LJ frame would make things difficult, so probably not.

klinger wrote:Sweet ride. In what style are you gonna build it. Honestly I think it would be sweet with a buick nailhead with a hydromatic and a set of cheaters out back.[/img]

not really sure I want a V8, I'm thinking a V6 with an auto if i can find a stand alone ECU. Mostly stock interior. Full metal roof with a single color paint exterior.

anyone have any experience with the Scotchbrite 3M paint removal discs? i want to remove paint but don't want to remove or gouge the metal.

The 3M pads say they are silicon carbide for finer finish or aluminum oxide for quick cutting. The 3M website lists various industries that may use this product; however, automotive is not one of them. I don't know if I would use any type of silicon product on a surface that I planned to paint. Maybe look into that for your project because specks of silicon are stupid hard to remove from metal surfaces and can cause fish-eyes in the paint. FYI... shop rags (aka.. old socks, towels.) ever exposed to fabric softener may cause fish-eyes as well.

Ecoboost?

SPR wrote:The 3M pads say they are silicon carbide for finer finish or aluminum oxide for quick cutting. The 3M website lists various industries that may use this product; however, automotive is not one of them. I don't know if I would use any type of silicon product on a surface that I planned to paint. Maybe look into that for your project because specks of silicon are stupid hard to remove from metal surfaces and can cause fish-eyes in the paint. FYI... shop rags (aka.. old socks, towels.) ever exposed to fabric softener may cause fish-eyes as well.

after stripping the paint there'll be sanding, do you suppose that would remove any residue or particles? maybe even a muriatic acid spray bath.

scumby wrote:

Grumpy wrote:Needs a 3.8 SC engine and AOD in it

why do you think i was inquiring? it needs re-engined but have not done enough research to find a stand alone ECU for the engine and trans. what's your bottom line?

Really would like to get the $800 mentioned, but offer up.

Al, A few body shop guys have told me that silicone products are bad news for autobody because of the paint quality issues.

Maybe look into having it sandblasted or use a chemical paint stripper unless your set on sanding. Based on my very limited experience and how my father instructed me, you want to use an orbital sander (air or electric) With the correct grit, you should be able to sand away the old paint pretty easily. Be ready to hit the bodies start panels with sealer or a sealer-primer shortly after removing the old paint to prevent surface rust and other weirdnesses that may occur if you're taking your sweet time on this project. I have paint guns that you can use.

SPR wrote:Al, A few body shop guys have told me that silicone products are bad news for autobody because of the paint quality issues.

Maybe look into having it sandblasted or use a chemical paint stripper unless your set on sanding. Based on my very limited experience and how my father instructed me, you want to use an orbital sander (air or electric) With the correct grit, you should be able to sand away the old paint pretty easily. Be ready to hit the bodies start panels with sealer or a sealer-primer shortly after removing the old paint to prevent surface rust and other weirdnesses that may occur if you're taking your sweet time on this project. I have paint guns that you can use.

definitely taking my sweet time. i've considered having it sand blasted jut haven't looked into it much. in-laws want to split costs so it shouldn't hurt too much. Guess i should call some body shops to see what they prefer when they get it for paint.

if i decide to sand it what is the "correct" grit? any suggestions for all the seams between body parts inside the body? not opposed to chemical stripping either.

What does this mean? "Be ready to hit the bodies start panels"

What about soda blasting? My understanding is that it's easier on the metal, sand can actually distort the metal.

bobracing wrote:What about soda blasting? My understanding is that it's easier on the metal, sand can actually distort the metal.

I'll have to look into that further.

I ment the straight body panels.

SPR wrote:I ment the straight body panels.

they're all straight except for the fenders.

scumby wrote: Guess i should call some body shops to see what they prefer when they get it for paint. "

Stop by Jack's Superior Autobody and talk to Jack or Charlie (painter). They've always been very helpful to me and are fairly priced. 310 W Columbia Dr, Kennewick, WA 99336... (509) 586-4511.