Thinking that my stock tie rod (and steering) is on borrowed time with a locked front end and 35's.
I've heard of some different suggestions for getting a beefier tie rod the most interesting being the tie rod, tie rod ends, and drag link setup of of a Grand Cherokee with a V8 thats supposed to be a direct bolt in to a TJ.
Any suggestions?
Beefier Tie Rod for a TJ?
Moderator: TJDave
Beefier Tie Rod for a TJ?
2004 TJ Wrangler X (Rubiclone)
2.5" OME Lift, 1.25 in Body Lift, Flat Fender Flares
35x12.50x15 Maxxis Razor MTs
D30 ARB 4.56s Rear JKD44 w/ 8.8 disk brakes Ford 9" goodies, 4.56 and ARB.
2.5" OME Lift, 1.25 in Body Lift, Flat Fender Flares
35x12.50x15 Maxxis Razor MTs
D30 ARB 4.56s Rear JKD44 w/ 8.8 disk brakes Ford 9" goodies, 4.56 and ARB.
Hands down the best upgrade for TJ steering is the Currie Currectlync system:
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/product.aspx?id=1219
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/product.aspx?id=1219
Yep, I've wheeled one of those, too...
- commando14
- Peak Putters Member
- Posts: 1211
- Joined: Sun Mar 11, 2007 3:37 pm
- Location: Kennewick, WA
I'm still doing my research (I got time 'cause I don't got money), but my favorite so far is Rusty's.
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RS-SC250-UV&Category_Code=ste
Curries' looks strong, but seems to still use the factory Y-design (correct me if I'm wrong.) And the ends for the Rusty's unit are replaceable at NAPA or Schucks. We've had a couple runs in the past few years that have left a rig on the hill with steering problems, so easy spares or a shorter trip to the parts store might be helpful.
My two pennies...
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RS-SC250-UV&Category_Code=ste
Curries' looks strong, but seems to still use the factory Y-design (correct me if I'm wrong.) And the ends for the Rusty's unit are replaceable at NAPA or Schucks. We've had a couple runs in the past few years that have left a rig on the hill with steering problems, so easy spares or a shorter trip to the parts store might be helpful.
My two pennies...
Okay, we're a little crazy to have a Duramax for a daily driver. But if we go off our meds, we might wind up in a Prius.
If you want to hear God laugh, tell Him your plans.
N7EEL WROD249
If you want to hear God laugh, tell Him your plans.
N7EEL WROD249
- White trash
- Posts: 1763
- Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:38 pm
- Location: El Pasco
White trash wrote:I agree with ya on that lee. The factory design is weak and not due to the materials, it just has bad geometry. I didn't read far into the rusty's setup but does it require relocating the trac bar? If so that is the only downfall but would allow you to get the drag link perfectly parallel.
It does not require relocating the trac bar (pretty sure.) But their spendy over the knuckle one does.
Okay, we're a little crazy to have a Duramax for a daily driver. But if we go off our meds, we might wind up in a Prius.
If you want to hear God laugh, tell Him your plans.
N7EEL WROD249
If you want to hear God laugh, tell Him your plans.
N7EEL WROD249
- White trash
- Posts: 1763
- Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:38 pm
- Location: El Pasco
iaccocca wrote:It does not require relocating the trac bar (pretty sure.) But their spendy over the knuckle one does.
Personally I'd use heims in double sheer over the knuckles and have the strongest setup with the most misalignment available. Yea the trac bar would need to be moved but it'd be worth it.
What about the JCR Offroad kit...
http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1TNST&Category_Code=S6
Looks like you could buy all the parts & build it yourself.[/url]
http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1TNST&Category_Code=S6
Looks like you could buy all the parts & build it yourself.[/url]
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