PEAK PUTTERS

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/2003- ... k-1087253/

And it might actually be more serious than I thought at first (Oil pump could go out). Didn't realize the oil pump drive assembly was under the sensor that's making noise. Any suggestions on where to take the jeep to in the tri-cities to get the part replaced? Or is it something I should attempt myself. I'm confidant I can replace the part and get the timing right, I just want someone to let me know if the cam is ok, so that the problem can't come back.

Hehe, asking a bunch of serious offroaders what mechanic to go to is like asking me where to take a computer to get it fixed.

Still have no clue what is causing the ticking in my jeep. Started a thread on jeep forum if anyone want's to take a look:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/4-0-i ... st10389155

Also have a video of the tick:

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/KmDsFxaqzN4?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/KmDsFxaqzN4?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

More discussion here as well:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/4-0-i6- ... 67554.html

Wow a diesel powered Tj

Wow, what a loud tick. My buddy's 84 CJ w/ 4.2li did the same thing. I have foregotten what caused it but I will give him a call. I seem to remember it was nothing major.

Yah, If I can't get this figured out I'm slapping a cummins sticker on the side and driving it till it explodes. Then I'll be adding a real cummins engine....

Hard to tell what it is from a video. Sounds alot like a bad lifter tick or bad piston slap. I'm not real familiar with those engines so it's hard to say without hearing it in person and tearing into it.

Lurch wrote:Hard to tell what it is from a video. Sounds alot like a bad lifter tick or bad piston slap. I'm not real familiar with those engines so it's hard to say without hearing it in person and tearing into it.

Think I might throw in some MMO in the crankcase, some techron in the gas tank and then drive it to the meeting tonight. I'll bring a stethoscope if you wouldn't mind looking at it, if you'll be there tonight.

Might grab a valve cover gasket at the dealer so that I can open it up tomorrow and see if I can see anything bad.

I plan on being there tonight.

Does the noise change when you press on the clutch?

Screaming Toylet wrote:Does the noise change when you press on the clutch?

It's an auto so I hope not.

I'm pretty certain it's not transmission related - as I've run the engine without it connected, and I still get the noise.





Here's a list copied from my other thread on what I've checked so far:

* Torque Converter Bolts - All nice and tight - nothing hitting in the bell housing or cover.

* Crankshaft Position Sensor - All good, and not hitting the teeth on the flex plate.

* Evap Purge Solenoid - Not the problem, and I checked all the other vaccum lines as well. Also, tick speed increases with higher RPMs.

* Camshaft Position Sensor - Pulled this as it seems to be a common 4.0 ticking problem. The teeth on the gear looks fine, and so does the cam. There is wear, but it's not deep or wide like the damaged ones I've seen. Pretty much cosmetic.



* Exhaust - Checked all the bolts on the manifold, searched all over for leaks. Did the WD-40 down the throat in the dark with a pencil light and not a thing.

* Flex Plate - Pulled the transmission all the way out and unbolted the flex plate. It was pristine, cleaned it all up searching for cracks and nada. Even took a super strong magnet and attached it to one side, and sprinkled iron shavings on it to see if I could find any invisible cracks. Nothing. I even ran the engine without the torque convertor (so the transmission was completely isolated and there was no change in the noise)

If I remember right, you said it quiets down when the engine is hot?

If so, I wonder if it's slop in the valvetrain. Maybe there is a rocker or pushrod that has some premature wear, and is too much for the hydraulic lifters to correct.

So, youtube has all sorts of problems at the moment. It flipped my video, messed with the sound, and the embed code generator is broken.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SqmSLAR ... e=youtu.be

<object width="853" height="480"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/5SqmSLARbMM?color2=FBE9EC?version=3&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/5SqmSLARbMM?color2=FBE9EC" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="853" height="480" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object>


So, is the timing chain supposed to move that much?

That is one shot timing chain. Snag a dual roller to put back in there.

White trash wrote:That is one shot timing chain. Snag a dual roller to put back in there.

Glad to hear it's shot. Hopefully that's what's been making all the noise.


I know nothing about timing chains. You mean something like this:


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-5 ... /make/jeep


There seem to be a ton of brands out there, usually I stick with OEM parts, but it seems like that might not be the way to go since this one failed so early.

Shot? It is so shot it barks!

SPR wrote:Shot? It is so shot it barks!

Yeah, had to lock up the dog, he was getting in the way.



I don't believe that double roller timing chain I linked to will work, wrong year. I'm having a hard time finding a double roller kit for a 2001.

It seems that there was a cam design change sometime ~99-00 and none of the aftermarket timing chain kits will work for any of the newer 4.0's.

How does the tensioner look? That is exactly how my timing chain looked when the tensioner lost its ability to lock in place.

If it really is that bad, I would pull our "distributor" drive assembly again and take a close look at the gear on the end. That much slop in the chain will translate to major knocking and possible wear on that gear.

Wrench wrote:How does the tensioner look? That is exactly how my timing chain looked when the tensioner lost its ability to lock in place.

If it really is that bad, I would pull our "distributor" drive assembly again and take a close look at the gear on the end. That much slop in the chain will translate to major knocking and possible wear on that gear.

Haven't pulled the cover off yet. Gonna go do that right now and take a look at things. Looking at the parts manual makes me think the 4.0 is just a bit different than the 2.5. I don't think it has any sort of tensioner. Just the chain and two gears.

Looked for anything else loose in the bottom and couldn't find anything. Oil pump and pickup were both solid. The baffle in the tank was still firmly welded on. You get 100 peak Peak Putters points for the chain idea though, I'm glad I found something.



Pulled the nuts off the number 1 rod bearing cap but it wasn't coming out. I have a pair of soft toothed channel locks I'm gonna try this morning. Otherwise I might do a bit of tapping with a brass punch and dead blow to see what happens.



Hopefully the dealer has the timing parts in stock, looks like OEM or random parts store brand kits is all that's available. None of the nice aftermarket stuff was ever made for the later years after the cam change.



Might pull the "distributor" but from what I can see on the bottom, the gears on the drive and the cam are in great shape.



Here's a pic of the underside just cause.

I would be checking rod bearings. Also check into your valve train, but I would almost bet it in a rod somewhere, wrist pin, bearing, somthing like that. Timing chain, maybe, but i'm not sure there is something that close for it to hit. I would think if the chain is that loose it would be jumping teeth. For sure if it was me, the motor would come out and everything would be checked, torqed etc etc.

I remember standing around Richland Round Table Pizza parking lot one night talking about your engine noise... That chain has held in there for a LONG time!

I changed mine out a few years back, and BOY what a difference!
It may be the tensioner, but if you're gonna be that far into it, do it all. Don't forget the front seal, and think about changing your water pump while your there.

Roman wrote:I remember standing around Richland Round Table Pizza parking lot one night talking about your engine noise... That chain has held in there for a LONG time!

I changed mine out a few years back, and BOY what a difference!
It may be the tensioner, but if you're gonna be that far into it, do it all. Don't forget the front seal, and think about changing your water pump while your there.

Hah, yeah. It's been making noise now for ~20-25 thousand miles. Maybe I'll get better fuel economy, a cooler running with the AC on. Don't have my hopes up there though.

I've got the full kit for the timing stuff on order from the dealership. $95 and should be here Tuesday. I'm also replacing the gaskets, rear main seal, and checking all the rod bearings. Water pump is new as of last year, so I should be good to go there.

I just need more room in the garage. The jeep is currently sitting outside and I'm waiting for the wind to go away.

There's only 105k miles on this thing. Shouldn't be giving m all this trouble. Oh well, it has certainly kept running.

While you are in there...

...you may want to think about installing one of these: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/searc ... vi=5167424



This is a 4 degree offset crank key for a small block chevy, which was a direct fit for my 2.5 cam drive gear and will most likely fit yours. You can use it to advance the cam timing and pick up some throttle response and low end power.