PEAK PUTTERS

Front diff support to body is snapped do anyone of you know where i could take it in and get this part fixed? i have no welding skills. but welding i think is the only way to fix this support. this bar that is on the front diff goes to a bushing which is attached to the frame of the truck and the whole assembly is snapped from the body. ill post pictures soon.

Hmmm front diff bracket is busted and you've been having vibration/noise issues while in 4wd.... Coincidence?

If it broke the horn containing the bushing off the diff, that's cast aluminum. Time for a new diff probably ...

Don Gato speaks truth. . .

I happen to know where you can find one.

good time for a SAS?

good time to convert to 2wd and put a long travel front end on!!!

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nM_uhQYBV0k[/youtube]

here is a video of the part that is broken. its nothing to do with the actual differential just the bushing to the frame.

i just put in a "new" transfer case in this weekend it went very well. got at pasco auto wrecking only has 45 thousnad miles on it. just need to find a body shop to fix this problem now with the bushing support


here is the broken bracket to the body.


This is the bushing without that bracket on you can see the hole in the body where the bracket is usually at

Just need to get the bracket for the bushing back on and itll be all good.

Fixed that one good. Just weld it back on and you should be good to go. That was most likely what was causing your noise also.

thats what caused me to replace the front drive shaft and screwed up my chain inside my transfer case. in all 600 bucks in repairs luckily i did all the repairs myself. but i dont have any welding skill and wont be able to fix it myself. any good body shops you guys know of?

Why in the World would you take structural welding to a body shop?

Lots of people that can weld on the board. . .I think maybe one lives near you.

yes a guy lives right down the street from me maybe ill ask him since he does lots of welding.

Bet he has a dark silver EB

I can weld it.

You should take some carb or brake cleaner with a brush and clean the metal real well first. Dont even attempt to weld it dirty.

I cant get to it until Friday, though.

do a search on brake clean and welding before using it.

Looks like ill just clean it up and take it over to Tobyw shop he lives right down the street from me. thanks for your guys help

bobracing wrote:do a search on brake clean and welding before using it.

Nothing readily available today will cause an issue that I'm aware of. Wasn't it something to do with the UV light from tig mixing with the argon and burning chlorinated brake cleaner?

White trash wrote:

bobracing wrote:do a search on brake clean and welding before using it.

Nothing readily available today will cause an issue that I'm aware of. Wasn't it something to do with the UV light from tig mixing with the argon and burning chlorinated brake cleaner?

I heard it was from the electrical current and didn't actually need to be a tig to cause problems. I just stick to carb cleaner and a wire brush on an angle grinder to be safe.

Various chlorinated hydrocarbons are used in degreasing or other cleaning operations. The vapors of these solvents are a concern in welding and cutting because the heat and ultraviolet radiation from the arc will decompose the vapors and form highly toxic and irritating phosgene gas. (See Phosgene.)

I stole that from some website that lists dangerous stuff that shouldn't be welded without precautions. I've been told all this before. Just can't ever remember it all.

I'd use a wire wheel on the parts and just weld it back in place.

bobracing wrote:do a search on brake clean and welding before using it.

Thanks for the reminder! I read that article several years ago and made a mental note to always get the non-chlorinated stuff; but long-since forgot why.

Redbull(Ranger) wrote:

I'm speechless on this one, how . . .

Roman wrote:

Redbull(Ranger) wrote:

I'm speechless on this one, how . . .

Oh, c'mon! That's easy!

It starts with an "F" and ends with a "D".

well this truck was in a wreck before it was transformed into a off roading truck and i think that support was weak to begin with and it just snapped recently. i think. but yea it is a Ford. hahaha i like chevys way better myself anyway. i have a 1997 suburban 5.7l v8 and that thing will go forever it has 250,660 miles on it and has only needed a replaced intake maniflod its a beast

I was only joking.

The only Ford product I have ever owned (Merc Mountaineer) has been a very trusty vehicle. Gonna turn it into a 'wheeler one of these days...

Someday, in the not too distant future, today's NEW Fords will become Old Fords. . .and they will still be the BEST vehicles on the road.

I wasn't a Ford guy at all until I owned a couple. If you guys could even imagine what we put our trucks through you'd be sold too.

For example. . .I ran my completely stock Excursion through 80 miles of Trophy Truck Whoops (3 to 6' tall) at the half way point of a 3000 mile road trip and then drove it home with only an air filter change.

On the Ranger. . .well. . .you don't even want to know what that things been through. The only time it lost to a Toyota, the yotard cheated by cutting 35miles off of the course. . .oh, wait, we still passed him.

Now if you could just get past those pesky exterras... :lip;