PEAK PUTTERS

Took my cherokee to a muffler shop today because I have an exhaust leak setting off a code. Well, turns out the manifold is cracked and I was quoted $375 plus some parts to repair the crack! I almost crapped my pants in the waiting area. Is that how all issues with jeeps are? How hard it is to actually remove and replace the exhaust manifold? Is this a job the average do-it-yourselfer can do, or should I bite the bullet and pay a shop to do it? The shop said it would remove the manifold, weld it, resurface, reinstall. My question is will that fix the problem, or just band-aid it? What can be done to prevent this from happening again?

Sounds like a band aid fix. I will assume that it is a cast iron manifold. I can't imagine a welded cast manifold holding up for very long.

Even with the tubular factory manifolds cracking is an issue. I've been told it's due to the high silicone content of the steel being cooked out of them so they shrink. Granted it was many moons and many brews ago I was told that but hell it's believable I guess.


For that kinda money you can get a QUALITY aftermarket header that won't have the issue and spend an afternoon replacing it yourself.

Trash, even the aftermarket headers crack, ask paul, scott(h8), and a few others. Just put the upgraded factory crap back on and run it. I've done 2 of them, they are not cast, and it will take you a few hours to do. Use penetrating juice before starting and the exhaust and intake are bolted on as one unit, it's kinda a bitch to get all the bolts, but I'm sure you can handle it. I would not have one fixed just so it can crack where they repaired it. Good luck.

It's not hard to replace it yourself, just takes awhile because you have to pull the intake as well.

I put in a off brand stainless header in mine, and it has held together for the last 3 years.

Jafo wrote:Trash, even the aftermarket headers crack, ask paul, scott(h8), and a few others.

Correct but they are all cheap hence I said QUALITY header. Stainless won't have the issues that the cheap steel crap does.



HERE ya go squirrel nuts, don't say I never did anything for ya.

Thanks White Trash. Would that part be best, or would a updated replacement like http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=262040 be the same? If I can achieve the same results, but same $100 in the process that makes me a happy camper

They will both work but if it was me spending the cash I'd skip a couple meals and use that cash towards a banks header. While your at it put a flex coupler to ensure the old exhaust system isn't exasperating the issue as it wobbles back and forth.

White trash wrote:They will both work but if it was me spending the cash I'd skip a couple meals and use that cash towards a banks header. While your at it put a flex coupler to ensure the old exhaust system isn't exasperating the issue as it wobbles back and forth.

x2 on the flex joint, I will be doing one on my Samurai. A Tri Y header helps not crack being it has more give as well. People tend to run those on Samurais, stock cast manifolds tend to crack, my tracker one is cracked too, will just weld it with a stick welder/cast iron rod.

I installed a Auto1 stainless steel header with a super thick one piece flange I got on ebay for $109 buck a few years back