Hey i have a 4in body lifted ranger with 33in tire and seems like the shocks may be stock size could i fit larger shocks on my truck so i could have more travel space? it feels like the shocks bottom out alot in the front and compress all the way when i hit a big bump? any help? also it
just seems like my suspension really gets a beat down and doesnt extend enough
bigger shocks maybe?
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Redbull(Ranger)
- Posts: 74
- Joined: Mon Oct 11, 2010 4:34 pm
- Location: West Richland
bigger shocks maybe?
WATCH OUT!
You could do something like this: [img]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_S9Flou2Jc8Q/Su8pVJaiR8I/AAAAAAAACWk/MnkjOekO50U/w600/upperarm.jpg
[/img]
Dixon Brothers actually has a kit specifically for 4x4 rangers with stock arms, but their site is down at the moment.
As far as "bigger" shocks go, the sky is the limit. Our Ranger uses dual 2.5" triple bypass shocks. . .that would be about the most you could do
A nice Fox 2.0 reservoir shock would do wonders for you. As far as getting more travel, you are limited to about 6 or 7" of front travel by a few things:
1. CV Joint Angle
2. Upper Ball Joint Binding
3. Upper A-Arm hitting the frame on droop
4. Of course, the swaybar
5. The outer tie rod end binding
The only good way to get more wheel travel out of a 4x4 A-Arm ranger is to put wider A-Arms on it. You can do that with BTF Fab's kit. . .if you have the cash. Seems like it is around $1200 plus you need to fabricate shock mounts and buy shocks for it. . .but you get 14" of travel.
The rear is much easier. . .just some Deaver prerunner springs and some good shocks.
OR. . .just leave it the way it is. . .
[/img]
Dixon Brothers actually has a kit specifically for 4x4 rangers with stock arms, but their site is down at the moment.
As far as "bigger" shocks go, the sky is the limit. Our Ranger uses dual 2.5" triple bypass shocks. . .that would be about the most you could do
A nice Fox 2.0 reservoir shock would do wonders for you. As far as getting more travel, you are limited to about 6 or 7" of front travel by a few things:
1. CV Joint Angle
2. Upper Ball Joint Binding
3. Upper A-Arm hitting the frame on droop
4. Of course, the swaybar
5. The outer tie rod end binding
The only good way to get more wheel travel out of a 4x4 A-Arm ranger is to put wider A-Arms on it. You can do that with BTF Fab's kit. . .if you have the cash. Seems like it is around $1200 plus you need to fabricate shock mounts and buy shocks for it. . .but you get 14" of travel.
The rear is much easier. . .just some Deaver prerunner springs and some good shocks.
OR. . .just leave it the way it is. . .
No such thing as a spring lift on a 4x4 Ranger. . .
You can preload the torsion bars or get different keys, but there are no lift springs. You can find bars from a late 90s V8 explorer that have a higher spring rate.
He's most likely bottoming on the bumpstops. . .they have a little rubber, but it is basically hard contact.
Also, disregard any of the lift kits that use subframes. . .it defeats the entire purpose of a lift: Ground clearance.
You can preload the torsion bars or get different keys, but there are no lift springs. You can find bars from a late 90s V8 explorer that have a higher spring rate.
He's most likely bottoming on the bumpstops. . .they have a little rubber, but it is basically hard contact.
Also, disregard any of the lift kits that use subframes. . .it defeats the entire purpose of a lift: Ground clearance.
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