Positive camber
Moderator: TJDave
Positive camber
So when I get back I have to deal with positve camber issue on my Jeep. I've found 2 possible remedies, shims between the knuckle and the spindle or ball joint bushings. I should probably mention that it's a '78 high pinion 44 out of Ford with Chevy knuckles. I don't think that has anything to do with the camber issue. It was more than likely the welding on of the TNT axle truss. I suppose this could cause a positve camber? So my question is how do I measure how much positive camber I have so I know what to order to make repairs? Any thoughts?
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tobyw wrote:I dunno man, I think if I found the housing was tweaked I'd be inclined to fix that vs. going with a bandaid-ish repair. Any reason you're not keen on cutting the truss and re-welding it? I mean, it's only metal
let's say I were to cut the truss, how do I determine where to cut. I would assume the cut would be near where the tweak is if that can even be determined. here's a pic of the axle and truss.
Last edited by scumby on Thu Jan 02, 2014 9:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
scumby wrote:Chrispy wrote:Just my 2cents. Sense you don't know where it is I would start with having it checked out on a alignment rack.
will they even touch it since it's not the original axle? not sure how alignment machines work but will my rock rings be an issue on my beadlocks?
Call and talk to dustin @ casaday beeline in Pasco tell him what you got and what your trying to achieve.
He's a wheeler as well so he'll understand.
HE TOOK THE BYPASS?? YEAH ITS A JEEP THING.
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I was talking to my les schwab guy when he was out doing some work on the fleet at work and he said it wouldnt be a problem to throw my solid axled blazer on there to get measurements if i wanted to. The reason why i was asking him about it was because it appeared that my front tires looked like this \ / a little bit looking at it from the front about 30ft ahead of it, same deal hp d44 with chevy stuff knuckles out. I never bothered since mine doesnt see street time but might be worth a shot to talk to them(clearwater store) if you want a idea of where it sits.
I would think the welding would pull the tops of the tires towards each other if anything not away.
I would think the welding would pull the tops of the tires towards each other if anything not away.
2000 Zr2 Blazer with HP Dana 44. 4.88's, 36's, Beadlocks, Welded rear, SYE, CV driveshafts...
Lurch,
i checked and or adjusted that (1/8") when i put the axle in. what about caster i've never gotten an official measurement on that either.
rennat,
maybe it's a ford/chevy combo causing it. i'll have to get it on a machine when i get back. i probably just have my 500 mile break in on the gears so i haven't seen any tire wear but would hate to. i'll probably be driving mine back and forth to the trails so i'll need to get it fixed.
i checked and or adjusted that (1/8") when i put the axle in. what about caster i've never gotten an official measurement on that either.
rennat,
maybe it's a ford/chevy combo causing it. i'll have to get it on a machine when i get back. i probably just have my 500 mile break in on the gears so i haven't seen any tire wear but would hate to. i'll probably be driving mine back and forth to the trails so i'll need to get it fixed.
Chrispy wrote:scumby wrote:Chrispy wrote:Just my 2cents. Sense you don't know where it is I would start with having it checked out on a alignment rack.
will they even touch it since it's not the original axle? not sure how alignment machines work but will my rock rings be an issue on my beadlocks?
Call and talk to dustin @ casaday beeline in Pasco tell him what you got and what your trying to achieve.
He's a wheeler as well so he'll understand.
Chrispy, thanks for the recomendation. took it in today and they verified that i do infact have a positive camber issue. manufacturer spec say -.8 to +.4 camber. mine is passenger +.8 and driver +.4 so the driver side is at the upper end and the passenger is +.4 past the upper end. he said to give it a couple thousand miles and bring it back. since everything is brand new he thinks as things loosen up it may fall into specs. he desn't think it should create tire wear issues.
as it was a 4 wheel check he said the rear end had a thrust angle issue but it was not significant enough to worry about. driver side is at +.16 degrees and passenger is at -.19 degrees. me, i didn't know what thrust angle was so he explained it as ne tire is slllllightly frward of the other.
i also had a toe in issue that they corrrected. i was towed in by about a half an inch more than i should have been.
so bottom line, i'm driving and need to break it in.
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