PEAK PUTTERS

I just returned home from a weekend in Spokane and Cheney for Savannah's volleyball tournament.
While sitting in the garage over the weekend, the Jeep's drivers rear axle decided to puke some diff fluid on its own. Enough to reach the floor and start a puddle.
Actually, there is a few spots in the fender well, so it must of let go just before I parked it on Thursday.

What to do? Where and which seals/bearings to get in the 35 spline shaft variety?
Or, do I just yank the shafts and take them to Six States to have new stuff pressed on?

Something else to add to the list of stuff I need to fix.

sell, sell, sell

scumby wrote:sell, sell, sell

Uh, no. Selling is not an option at this time.

That's it? Anyone else?

All the bearings, seals ect... should have the numbers stamped on them. Where'd you get your 35 spline axles from? They should be able to get you the right part numbers.

I had B & L Auto Machine in pasco remove the old bearings and press on the new bearings for my mustang rear axle shafts last year. Think they charged me 7 dollars a side.

Dunno how to get them out, but I can e-mail you the rear axles section from the service manual.

Thank you Dale. They are Ten Factory shafts. I did a search on the Northridge 4x4 site and they have a Ten Factory D44 big spline kit with an ARB. I think that is what the PO installed when he had it. It comes complete with seals and bearings, so I am sure I can order the correct parts through them.

I am not sure why it all of a sudden started to leak though.

Yea, thanks Dale! I was wondering this myself. I have a 20t shop press, but not sure it it'll even do the job. I've never done bearings or seals that were pressed on the axle shaft.

Wrench wrote:Yea, thanks Dale! I was wondering this myself. I have a 20t shop press, but not sure it it'll even do the job. I've never done bearings or seals that were pressed on the axle shaft.

I was gonna do it with my 12 ton press, but the axle shafts were a few inches to long to fit.

We press bearings off all the time with a 20 ton harbor freight press in the shop at work, so I think yours should handle it.

Pull a seal at take it down to Kaman bearing on OR ave. They know their stuff and can easily spec the seal if there are no numbers on it if you don't mangle it too badly removing it.

I'm with Ryan on this one. Kaman once helped me with seals and bearings for an old boat trailer I had - 20 plus years old. I took them a seal and they had it figured out in no time. Definitely give them a try. Could probably tell you where to get things pressed in or out too.

Dave, I recently had a leaky rear after my little fiasco up in Naches... Turned out I hadn't tightened the 4bolts down enuf. Check your tightness first, mine sealed back up after a couple wrench turns. If that doesn't work then you can tear it down.

JK Lance wrote:Dave, I recently had a leaky rear after my little fiasco up in Naches... Turned out I hadn't tightened the 4bolts down enuf. Check your tightness first, mine sealed back up after a couple wrench turns. If that doesn't work then you can tear it down.

I will definitely check that out. Thanks.

Wrench wrote:Yea, thanks Dale! I was wondering this myself. I have a 20t shop press, but not sure it it'll even do the job. I've never done bearings or seals that were pressed on the axle shaft.

It will do the job to press them back on for sure. You just have to score the retainer and bearing with a skinny wheel and smack them with a chisel to get the old ones off.

I actually have a chunk of heavy walled tube that is the right ID that I used to drive on D60 and D44-HD (aluminum center) bearings/retainers. It isn't elegant and I do recommend a press.

Any tips on how to get the old bearing race out of the housing? Seems to be stuck in there pretty good.

Call me when you're able. I can help but not Saturday.

Done. Thanks everyone for the suggestions and offers to help.

Thank you Bryan (Bryansfab) for pressing the new stuff on, and the loan of the Snapon slide hammer tool. That stubbon stuck bearing race finally gave up after some good whacks.

Just another FYI for anyone replacing bearings on a D44.
The collars are the same size whether you have stock 30 spline shafts, 33 spline, or in my case 35 spline shafts. So, the standard Timken Set 10 bearings and 9912s seal fit them all.
Like Jimmy said, skinny wheel and a chisel to get the old stuff off. Plus a little help with a drill press for the retainer ring.
If you have good friends helping you, like I did, cold beer would also be good while you watch.