And what's behind question #3?

[scumby]

Got rid of our MH we had last time. But now it's time for another. anybody know of any for sale around this area? haven't been to the stealerships, thinking there kinda spendy. headed to seattle this weekend unles we find something here. looking for something under 30 ft.

[SPR]

Look for mold issues if you're looking on the Wet Side.

[scumby]

i've even seen that on this side.

[Danny]

Al, there's a ton of them out there. You just need to decide what it is you can and can't live without. Maybe Paul can help you find something since he's kinda in the business. I'm sure that with spring upon us there will be lots coming up for sale. Just don't get impatient.

[Wrench]

I just got back from two weeks of vacation. I cant remember who has what for sale.

Actually, I see far more 5th wheels for sale than I do motor homes. I have a large customer base that lives in them, and the 5th wheels seem to be the preferred choice.

I would avoid anything near 15 years old that has a rubber roof. You'd be lucky to get any more life than that out of the rubber membrane, and they are very expensive to replace. (~$6000-8000 done the right way) Aluminum or fiberglass roof systems are best. Walk every inch of the roof and you will know if it has had water penetration, it'll be soft. Water damage can be a nightmare to fix, especially with the laminated fiberglass (smooth side) coaches. Trim coming loose and rusty screws are another telltale sign of water damage/structure rot.

Bring a thermometer (I use a laser thermometer) and volt meter.

Make sure the refrigerator is run for several hours before you get there and it gets down below 40 degrees in the refrigerator portion. This is the ONLY way to test the cooling unit (~$1500 to replace).

Also test the roof AC. Air inlet temp should be 15-20 degrees higher than outlet temp. Roof AC's are ~$1000 to replace.

Fill the fresh water tank and run the 12v pump. If the pump reaches pressure and shuts off completely, the system is holding pressure and the pump is good. If the pump never shuts off, the system is not holding pressure and may be leaking. Be sure the water heater is NOT bypassed when doing this, you'll know whether the water heater is split from freezing or not (~$600 to replace).

Avoid any RV that is plumbed with CPVC. That stuff is very brittle and a nightmare to repair. Looks like tan colored pvc. PEX plastic plumbing is better stuff, and best if brass fittings were used.

Use your volt meter to test the converter. When plugged in, you should read no less than 13.1 vdc at the battery terminals. Converters fail often. If the owner has a car battery charger hooked up to it, this is a telltale sign that the converter has failed.

If it has a generator, run the generator and load it by running the roof AC (highest draw appliance) with the coach unplugged from shore power.

If the battery voltage immediately drops below ~12.3 VDC after shore power is turned off and engine is off, the batteries are probably no good.

If the coach is within the Tri Cities, I can do a pretty thorough inspection for under $200, at your location. I also have over $12,000 in RV parts and supplies in stock.

Trusty Wrench RV Doctor-- 509-947-7504

[scumby]

lots of good info wrench, thanks.

later plans in life included a large RV for workamping but currently we are looking for a weekender.
somethng in the 19-28 ft range.
momma's gotta have bathroom.
i really like generators.
class A or C preferred with towing jeep and trailer capabilities.
tired of crawling up into the overhead bunk on a C so prefer rear bed.

[Danny]

Good start Al. We've had several of these things and we've boiled the looking process down like you've indicated, deciding what you need to have and what we can live without. It sure helps decide on a rig.

[scumby]

What do you all think about the 454s in the older motorhomes?

[OldGreen]

They are great. Especially the ones with TBI. You have to confirm with your eyes though. Sometimes a 1991 motor home will be on 1989 chassis.

[scumby]

good to know. i'm sure there are some aftermarket accessories as well. oooohh and 4wd conversions

[Rottwheeler]

If you're thinking smaller RV and 4x4... check out

http://www.sportsmobile.com/z-PO_calif.html

(Not much of a bathroom though...

[Danny]

I don't have that much in the taj-ma-hal a '98 and about 30K less and it's got a kick-A bathroom.

[Rottwheeler]

Danny... do you use an auxillary braking system in your YJ? If so, which one did you choose?

[Danny]

The mh is set up with a SMI breaking system. It's a vacuum assist system that ties into the break on your tow vehicle. There are two versions of this system available, one for air brake rigs and one for hydraulic brake systems. My mh has hydro brakes so I use the "Stay-N-Play" system. The air brake system is called the "Air-Force".

Activation of the towed vehicle's brakes require BOTH deceleration and the brake lights from the motorhome. It actually works real good. Here's a web site to check out.

As you'll see they are not cheap, So I do not have it set up on the YJ but do have it on the Rubi and a CRV.

[scumby]

If you're thinking smaller RV and 4x4... check out

http://www.sportsmobile.com/z-PO_calif.html

(Not much of a bathroom though...

i've seen those before, they are nice and some are diesels.

[scumby]

danny, pusher?

[SPR]

What do you all think about the 454s in the older motorhomes?

You may want to pass on it. The 460 may have a strong crank, but they don't hold a candle to a Vortec in performance. My brother's Vortec 454MH towing a jeep trailer almost out pulls my empty low mile 1995 Ford with a Toy and trailer. His gets better economy and doesn't suffer from a history of exhausts leaks that in turn cause over heating issues and sometimes starter failure. I remember Wrench posting about this same topic and he also favored the Vortec.

[Livin4Today]

We love our 6.0 L Vortex in our 28 foot 4 Winds... Note, if you want a rear bed it has to be larger than a 25 otherwise you get shoved into a corner sorta like climbing onto the cab over bunk in my opinion...

[TJDave]

Yep. We have a rear corner bed in our 26' class C. It's a PITA to change the bedding. Ease of getting in and out of it all depends on how good the campfire party is.

On the plus side, it's shorter and lighter than the 30' walk around bed models on the same E450 chassis. Less overhang, less weight = better for towing JEEPS!

[scumby]

What do you all think about the 454s in the older motorhomes?

You may want to pass on it. The 460 may have a strong crank, but they don't hold a candle to a Vortec in performance. My brother's Vortec 454MH towing a jeep trailer almost out pulls my empty low mile 1995 Ford with a Toy and trailer. His gets better economy and doesn't suffer from a history of exhausts leaks that in turn cause over heating issues and sometimes starter failure. I remember Wrench posting about this same topic and he also favored the Vortec.

sooo, Vortec and 4x4 conversion, lockers, winch bumpers front and rear. oooh oooh exo!

[mattawajeep]

sooo, Vortec and 4x4 conversion, lockers, winch bumpers front and rear. oooh oooh exo!

I've always wanted one of these:

[Wrench]

sooo, Vortec and 4x4 conversion, lockers, winch bumpers front and rear. oooh oooh exo!

I've always wanted one of these:

They get, what, 3mpg??

[Danny]

danny, pusher?

Al, yes....325 mechanical....love it. It's longer than we wanted but couldn't pass up the deal.

[Danny]

Dale, that would be with a tail wind.

[mattawajeep]

Yeah, but that's 3mpg with a mixture of old gear oil, bad gas and transmission fluid.