PEAK PUTTERS

...dont expect miracles!

I hear the Stealerships are backlogged several weeks. I am booked until late this week. If you want a little help doing it yourself, feel free to call me, but only after 6pm in the evening when I am not turning wrenches.

509-947-7504



Critical parts:
-drain water heater (but be sure 110v element is OFF)
-drain fresh water tank
-open all faucets and low-point drains (there should be two)
-run water pump on air for a few minutes
-take a wooden dowel, flush the toilet, and let the dowel hold the waste valve open. On many toilets, this also keeps the water valve inside the toilet open.
-pour a few cups of rv antifreeze in all p-traps (galley sink, tub drain, and bath sink drain). Toilets dont have a trap.

running the pump w/o water won't hurt it?

do all hot water tanks have 110v element?

if blowing the water system out with air how many psi should I use, 4-5?

Paul do you run antifreeze through the water pump? Or just blow the lines out with air and let it run on air for a few minutes?

I used to use the RV antifreeze but don't like the taste come spring.

paul im in Kennewick and could use some help, also I have a repair I could use some experienced eyes on. any day your free to fit me in would be great.


if interested shoot me a pm and we can set something up

My Dad has always blown his out and never used anti freeze except in the p traps. Said he's never had a problem.
I bought 9 years worth of winterizations from the stealership when we bought ours. I'm going to learn how to do it myself after next year.

TJDave wrote:My Dad has always blown his out and never used anti freeze except in the p traps. Said he's never had a problem.
I bought 9 years worth of winterizations from the stealership when we bought ours. I'm going to learn how to do it myself after next year.

you go girl!

-running a pump dry only seems to hurt them if they are left on. For days. I have only ever seen one go bad from running dry. The guy left it on all winter.

-best way to rid the entire system of water is by using antifreeze. Some RV's have a winterization hose connected to a 3-way valve at the pump inlet. If yours doesnt, just disconnect the inlet side and connect your own 3' hose to the pump with the other end sucking straight from the gallon of rv antifreeze.

-to regulate air pressure into a system, I use a standard RV water pressure regulator. All you need is a brass adapter that is male hose on one side and female pipe threads on the other (where you install your choice of air hose fitting). Connect the male hose threads into the pressure regulator and connect that to your RV. This allows full hose pressure to the regulator, and a full 50psi of high volume into the RV. RUNNING AIR THROUGH THE SYSTEM NEVER GETS THE WATER OUT OF THE PUMP. It also does a poor job of getting all the water out of the system.

-not all water heaters are 110v. If it is an Atwood, the model number GC6-8E is electric, while the G6-8E will not be. The "C" indicates a combination of heat sources (LP and 110v). If it is a Suburban, there will be a little 110v black switch and oval cover in the bottom left corner of the water heater (behind outside cover). If it is LP only, there is no switch or oval cover.

-antifreeze can stink up the system if it is dumped into the fresh water tank, or if it goes into the water heater. Both are terribly hard to flush the antifreeze out of. NEVER dump it into the fresh tank, and always use some kind of bypass to keep it from entering the water heater. It is also vital that they system is flushed properly in the Spring, or you may miss some of the antifreeze and stink up the system.

-Rinsing/flushing the system with a mix of vinegar works very well to de-funk. Best way is to dump a gallon of vineger into the fresh water tank, fill the tank the rest of the way with water, and flush the mixture through the whole system. Let it sit over night, and rinse/repeat with straight water. The vinegar will also reduce hard water deposits in the system that tend to plug the faucet screens.

79chevy39.5's wrote:paul im in Kennewick and could use some help, also I have a repair I could use some experienced eyes on. any day your free to fit me in would be great.


if interested shoot me a pm and we can set something up

I'm in my third year of business and finding free days very few and far between. Now you know why my Jeep sits with little progress.

My phone is the best way to get a hold of me. Even then, I am finding it very difficult to make time to take calls. I got about 30 calls today. It reaches a point where I have to let it go to voice mail just to get anything done. My voicemail is the only secretary I can afford.

I just got done with my new trailer. Tried the air method for the first time but didn't have a good feeling about it so I followed up with the antifreeze.. lots of water still came out of the faucets.. felt much better seeing the antifreeze come out of each faucet.

I did my motorhome last week with antifreeze, but it takes a lot since it doesn't have a hot water bypass.

Just got done with the last minute scramble...

Have always used compressed air in the passed, but this time used co2... Had a 5 lb bottle and a new 150 lb regulator I've been wanting to try out. (Reduced to 30psi at coach)

Took a several passes around the different faucets, but finally got it. Then some rv antifreeze.... DONE!

No worries ill try to remember in the spring or whenever your less busy

commando14 wrote:I did my motorhome last week with antifreeze, but it takes a lot since it doesn't have a hot water bypass.

Is that why many of you blow out your systems? I can drain the hot water tank and then bypass it when pumping RV antifreeze through the faucets. I think I'll go back and blow out my potable water tank and then run a little RV antifreeze through the tank's drain tube. I suspect draining the tank alone might not be enough given the plumbing of the tank.

The fresh tank drains are best left open. Same with the low-point drains, if you didnt use antifreeze in the lines. Even a couple ounces of water trapped in the end of the line has the potential for breakage.

A little water in the holding tanks doesnt seem to be a problem. Those have such huge line and area for expansion in them, so the ice isnt really a problem.

Dont forget the outdoor showers, if you have them! Those are often overlooked.

Wrench wrote:

79chevy39.5's wrote:paul im in Kennewick and could use some help, also I have a repair I could use some experienced eyes on. any day your free to fit me in would be great.


if interested shoot me a pm and we can set something up

I'm in my third year of business and finding free days very few and far between. Now you know why my Jeep sits with little progress.

My phone is the best way to get a hold of me. Even then, I am finding it very difficult to make time to take calls. I got about 30 calls today. It reaches a point where I have to let it go to voice mail just to get anything done. My voicemail is the only secretary I can afford.

Paul,
Increase your prices gradually to the point where you lose 15% of your business. I'm guessing that it will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 30% increase. You will make more money in less time and not have the potential for a customer service disaster. It will also help you keep your sanity. I'd be more than happy to drink a few of your Angry ciders and talk about this kind of stuff. It is what I do for a living.

I got up this morning at 5am to re-treat my holding tank. The pink stuff flowith from the hole. I also brought in all of my gardens hoses that I forgot to drain on Sunday.

I think I broke a record. I winterized 13 units today.