Pilot bearing/bushing removal

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OldGreen
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Postby OldGreen » Mon Jan 19, 2015 7:59 pm

Yeah, the insert for the bearing. . .you need a BIG nut. Weld it on and drive in a bolt to make a screw jack.

those are not exactly supposed to come out.

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Mon Jan 19, 2015 8:46 pm

OldGreen wrote:Yeah, the insert for the bearing. . .you need a BIG nut. Weld it on and drive in a bolt to make a screw jack.

those are not exactly supposed to come out.


It's a TJ manual transmission thing I think. There were quite a few changes to the TJ era 4.0's.

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scumby
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Postby scumby » Mon Jan 19, 2015 9:01 pm

didn't have white bread so i used regular flour tortilla, nice and doughy. compacted in there really well, used a 4 lb sledge and a 1/2" drive socket slid in backwards with a 1/2" drive extensions to fill the hole so nothing could squeeze by.

my puller is/was the type that has the slide hammer attachment, probably only 2 bs but the fingers slip over the bevel and slide out. sorta fixed that issue by using a disc on a dremel and flattening that groove so the fingers could actually grab a flat edge. then the 90* edge of the finger broke off. then i got disgusted and quit.

i've put a pilot bearing in one of these before after removing the original automatic from my 1998. the early transmission torque converters must have had a larger centering nub that fit into the crank because when i did that one i only had to install the pilot bearing without removing a pilot sleeve. the bearing i'm installing has an OD of 1.8 as seen in the link below.

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/morein ... cc=1432231
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OldGreen
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Postby OldGreen » Mon Jan 19, 2015 9:56 pm

Yeah, that style has the sleeve and bearing as one unit. The sleeve is likely too big for the hydro bread trick.

I had to do that once for a custom pilot bushing. I ended up drilling and tapping holes and using a steering wheel puller. I think now that I have a welder, I would weld a nut in the ID and press it out with a bolt.

OldGreen
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Postby OldGreen » Mon Jan 19, 2015 10:17 pm

Yeah, that style has the sleeve and bearing as one unit. The sleeve is likely too big for the hydro bread trick.

I had to do that once for a custom pilot bushing. I ended up drilling and tapping holes and using a steering wheel puller. I think now that I have a welder, I would weld a nut in the ID and press it out with a bolt.

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scumby
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Postby scumby » Tue Jan 20, 2015 5:30 pm

SUCCESS! found a nut that fit inside the pilot bushing after grinding off the 6 points. at first it slid out as i threaded the bolt in but after tack welding the nut to the sleeve it came out. i don't think the small grooves from the dremel wheel should make a difference in the balance of the crankshaft.
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Postby OldGreen » Wed Jan 21, 2015 9:57 pm

Brilliant!

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White trash
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Postby White trash » Wed Jan 21, 2015 11:22 pm

OldGreen wrote:Brilliant!



Thanks! :lip:

White trash wrote:weld a nut to it and take a few inches of appropriately sized all thread with a nut welded to the end and crank it down.

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scumby
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Postby scumby » Thu Jan 22, 2015 5:25 am

White trash wrote:
OldGreen wrote:Brilliant!



Thanks! :lip:

White trash wrote:weld a nut to it and take a few inches of appropriately sized all thread with a nut welded to the end and crank it down.


thanks WT, i knew i heard it somewhere but didn't feel like reading back thru the whole thing
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OldGreen
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Postby OldGreen » Thu Jan 22, 2015 10:29 am

White trash wrote:
OldGreen wrote:Brilliant!



Thanks! :lip:

White trash wrote:weld a nut to it and take a few inches of appropriately sized all thread with a nut welded to the end and crank it down.


I outfumbled you. :lol:


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