Any guesses?

[iaccocca]

Since I took the top off and put the half doors on I’ve noticed a noise coming from the front of my Jeep that I didn’t notice when I was wrapped in my soft-top cocoon.
I have a squeaking, metal on metal noise while backing up; seems to be related to vehicle speed. Clutch has to be at least partially engaged… put the clutch pedal to the floor and the noise goes away even if the Jeep is still rolling. Noise seems to be coming from the front end. Noise is happening in 2wd drive (but I did note it tonight in 4wd when I was letting my three year old drive it around the yard, but that is a different story.) The noise does not go away when the brakes are depressed.
For those that do not know, it is a 2005 TJ / Rubicon with no hubs to unlock.
I hope to have time to get under it this weekend, so any guesses; what should I be looking at?
Backing only.
Clutch engaged.
???

[Lurch]

Just turn up the radio

[OldGreen]

maybe something like a pinion bearing since the pinion pushed when it is being "Driven" by the motor.

[Dromero]

Maybe the front driveline u-joints??

[bobracing]

I'm going to be in the same neighborhood as OG, carrier bearing.
Only reason is, I had let go on my GC, it took me a while to finally figure out what it was, of course this was after 240K miles.

[White trash]

I'm going to be in the same neighborhood as OG, carrier bearing.
Only reason is, I had let go on my GC, it took me a while to finally figure out what it was, of course this was after 240K miles.

What carrier bearing?


My money says it needs a u-joint..

[SPR]

I guess rear u-joint. You're running new lift right?

[Dale]

I have the same thing I think with my rubicon. I get a similar sound, and when I push the clutch in it goes away. I am not sure what it is, but hasnt seemed to effect the jeep at all. let me know what you find out.

[Roman]

I vote u-joints, not that it sounds all that specific but you probably need to change them anyways and they're not that expensive.

Pull the front DL and see if you still get the sound, if it does go away, pull the u joints apart and look for waisted needle bearings

[iaccocca]

For those keeping score...
It was the rear u-joint on the rear drive shaft. Bearings in one cup were smoked, hence the 'only in reverse.' I used Jose's tip and pulled the front drive shaft to eliminate that, but I had started to suspect the rear u-joint at the axle. Good for another 40k, eh.

[Danny]

Good for another 40k, eh.

Unless you're wheelin it right, then you can figure on maybe 2 or 3K.

[iaccocca]

...but mine gets a lot of those k's as a daily driver. (Time to buy a spare I guess.)

[SPR]

I'am keeping score and I win (See prior posts). Rear U-Joints don't last well on lifted Heeps.

[Jafo]

Especially if your not running a slip yoke eliminator on the tranfercase.

[iaccocca]

Especially if your not running a slip yoke eliminator on the tranfercase.

Rubicon = no SYE needed.

[Jafo]

Hmm, didnt know they had one from factory. If it doesnt... why wouldn't it need one. School me on the Ruby.

[White trash]

I'am keeping score and I win (See prior posts). Rear U-Joints don't last well on lifted Heeps.

Hmm look one post above your prediction and get back to me...

[iaccocca]

Hmm, didnt know they had one from factory. If it doesnt... why wouldn't it need one. School me on the Ruby.

NVG241OR transfer case with a factory short-shaft and a killer 4:1 low range ratio, coupled by big 1330 U-joints to the axles

[Jafo]

Oakey dokey..

[SPR]

Hey Trashy.... You did not specify which u-joint. I pinned it down to the rear

[White trash]

Mere semantics... A bad u joint is indeed a bad u joint even it it was in the steering column I would technically be correct so neener neener.

[SPR]

O.K. Trash, I will give you that.... BTW, I have a bad nut on my truck will you fix it?

[White trash]

I don't know if I can handle that.. I don't know much about these Toyota things ya know...