Dual Battery Setup

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JambaJeep
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Dual Battery Setup

Postby JambaJeep » Thu Nov 14, 2013 9:58 pm

Im sure this is a popular idea but havent seen too much on here about it. I'm putting this here so peak putters dont have to go searching for the info on other boards.

I am coming to a close on my 83 Toyota's build and decided dual batteries is worth the extra expense. I know there will be a long hard day of wheeling and winch use followed by a long night of tunes played over the stereo, dual batteries will ensure I always have a backup to start. I have a 12k winch, so I am pretty sure one battery for the winch will be more than sufficient.

Roman and I have debated over what the best way is to route my wiring for the 2 batteries so here is the Billavista dual battery setup I will be copying.




So here is the billavista write-up:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... _setup.htm

Billavista wrote:My Dual battery setup.

I did a bunch of research on dual battery setups before doing mine. There are a lot of different options and setups available.

I wanted mine to be simple, reliable, and uncomplicated. I rejected the designs with fancy isolators and those using multiple solenoids

because I felt the potential for failure in these parts, leaving the entire electrical system inoperable, was too high. Plus they're harder to

setup, understand, and maintain. Also, even though many claim success, the solenoids you see used are not designed for this, even if they are

"constant duty - more on this below.

So I ended up with a very simple system consisting of 2 batteries, a large marine switch with positions 1/2/both/off, all wired with 1/0 welding cable.

A lot of conventional wisdom recommends 2 identical batteries, but I wanted to try to reap the strengths of both kinds of batteries, so I installed a marine deep cycle battery (battery 2) and a regular heavy duty automotive starting battery (battery 1).

Here's my system:

Image

This is the switch, available fromhttp://www.marinco.com/product/diesel-power-battery-selector-switch. Note that they have switches available rated up to 1000 amps !!

Mine is rated for 230 amps continuous, 350 amp intermittent (5 minutes).

Image


This is the back of the switch, with the terminals labelled. The field terminals are for use with an externally regulated alternator, such that

accidentally switching the switch to "off" with the engine (alternator) running, will not harm the alternator. However, as my alternator is internally regulated, I do not, and cannot use this feature, and must not switch the switch to off with engine running....no big deal.

Image

Here's where I installed the switch....not for everyone I know, but I like it. My friends joke that I could launch nuclear missiles with that switch !

Image

-END


Ill update this thread with a better schematic and my dual battery build soon. If anyone has any pointers please feel free to post.

Wrench
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Postby Wrench » Fri Nov 15, 2013 8:01 am

Maybe it is just me, but the pics dont show up.

Anyway, I am sure if I do a little research, I can find latching solenoids or battery disconnects that would work well. Nearly every motorhome has one or three.

One thing I have found that would also works well is a battery charge isolator that is voltage sensitive. It will connect both batteries when there is charge voltage, but is otherwise disconnected.
Paul
'84 XJ, '19JL

OldGreen
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Postby OldGreen » Fri Nov 15, 2013 8:05 am

Cross linked from PBB attachments. They don't allow that and we don't want the attention.

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Roman
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Postby Roman » Fri Nov 15, 2013 8:09 am

OldGreen wrote:Cross linked from PBB attachments. They don't allow that and we don't want the attention.


Oh, NOW you say that... :banghead

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Fri Nov 15, 2013 8:23 am

Fixed the pictures and added a link to the original write-up. With the pictures on our server, and credit given where it's due I don't think anyone will mind.

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Roman
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Postby Roman » Fri Nov 15, 2013 8:30 am

mattawajeep wrote:Fixed the pictures and added a link to the original write-up. With the pictures on our server, and credit given where it's due I don't think anyone will mind.


LOL, MOD's are taking more turns on this thread than a door knob!

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Roman
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Postby Roman » Fri Nov 15, 2013 9:15 am

So, at this point are you looking at leaving one batt in the stock location and remote mounting one in the tool box?

Batt #1 as main engine/winching battery, with Batt#2 left as accessory/back-up?

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JambaJeep
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Thanks mods!

Postby JambaJeep » Fri Nov 15, 2013 10:27 am

I used a similar switch, same basic idea just slightly more visually appealing and rated for 700 amps. The Blue Sea 6007200
Image

Billavista kept his setup very simple and decided not to use an isolator for the simple fact that its just something else that can potentially fail. For my setup I plan to run a diode type isolator to ensure both batteries are charged and not draining eachother down.
Image

The NOCO IGD140HP is rated for 140 amps continuous and is controlled by a switched 12v source. They had a 95 amp version, however I would like to keep the door open for an alternator upgrade down the road.

I bought 25ft each of 2g red and black.
20 x 3/8 terminal lugs
2 x 3/8 junction posts

Here is my schematic:
Image

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Roman
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Postby Roman » Fri Nov 15, 2013 8:19 pm

Aren't there problems with diode type chargers? Low voltage... or something like that?

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JambaJeep
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re:

Postby JambaJeep » Fri Nov 15, 2013 9:50 pm

Yes the old diode type isolators would rob voltage and never really worked right. I chose a newer style "solid state" isolator.

The NOCO 140 Amp High-Performance Battery Isolator is a solid-state (not diode) electrical device that eliminates multiple battery drain, prolongs battery life and more reliable than mechanical or solenoid systems. It's ideal for recreational vehicles, boats, cars, utility vehicles, trucks and other battery applications, and it's suitable for use with Wet, Gel, MF and AGM batteries. All needed hardware is included.

Battery Isolator Features

Solid-State Technology--Isolates each battery bank and allows each battery to be charged and discharged
Eliminates Multiple Battery Drain--Stops battery banks from robbing power from each other
Durable--More reliable than mechanical or solenoid systems
Multiple Battery Chemistries--Suitable for Wet, Gel, MF and AGM batteries
Full Current Potential--Full current from either output
Universal Design--Works with most alternators, including Delcotron Series


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