NEED INSIGHT / ADVICE OF BUILDING A POLE BARN TYPE SHOP

[Rottwheeler]

Hey all... I NEED to build a shop on my property and want to do as much of it as I can myself. Those of you that have some experience with this... I would appreciate your insights and/or suggestions on accomplishing this task.

I know that I will hire someone to do the concrete work and electrical tie ins. 40x60 will be the ideal size. My other half would prefer that I do lap siding on the street side of the building and make it pretty.

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

[bobracing]

By the time you try to get the poles all straight, frame in doors & windows, insulation, and commercial girts stick might be worth it if you want it somewhat sealed.

I was thinking of SIP (structurally insulated panels) but it's a lot more money upfront but very fast build time. SIPs would also cut down on insulation with better sealing.

[pascoscout]

Lap siding means you'll have to put sheeting on that side to nail the siding too. Use ring-shank nails and it will hold. The sheeting will change the structural properties of the building. One side will be very stiff and the others flexible. Part of the idea with the pole building is all side are able to move a little bit. My engineering focus is not in structural so I can't really analyze it beyond that without doing a lot of research but its something to think about.

Getting the poles in might need special equipment. They usually install them about 6 feet deep and backfill with pea gravel. To get that depth I usually see people use an auger mounted to a backhoe or 3-point. I suppose you could do a two person hand auger with some type of extension... lotta work though.

The other tough part is getting the trusses up and in place. Depending on the eve height you go for this might be something to pay to have done.

Stick built is a good option if you're doing it yourself. Downside is the cost of the footings. I know here in Franklin County even though its a non-livable space they still make you go two feet deep. At 40x60 that's a lot of cost in concrete.

Are you buying a set of plans?

[Jay W]

I built my 30x48x14 myself with help from friends and family. I would definetly do it again. You will save about 30% over hiring it done. I did hire out concrete floor and insulation. Definety do commercial girts as it makes 6" of insulation and finishing inside easy. I did eaves all around because I like that look. I have 1 16x13 door on the gable end. If I did it over I would do multiple doors on the side to make it easier to move multiple projects in and out. I would also have a lift in 1 bay.

[pascoscout]

Agree with Jay on the doors. My shop also has the one 16 feet door on the gable end, really wish it had the doors on the sides.

If you want a lift consider going with 17 feet high eves. Gives you enough room to put a lifted vehicle with big tires up in the air high enough to stand under it.

[SPR]

I put a big door on one gable end and two big doors on one side of my 30x50. I'm very glad I did. Send me a PM and I'll show you my shop and give you some ideas about stuff. There are so many ways to do it but good contractors are key to a present experience.

[Rottwheeler]

By the time you try to get the poles all straight, frame in doors & windows, insulation, and commercial girts stick might be worth it if you want it somewhat sealed.

I was thinking of SIP (structurally insulated panels) but it's a lot more money upfront but very fast build time. SIPs would also cut down on insulation with better sealing.

I was not familiar with SIP construction... but found this video to learn about it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtmccgV2S4Q

Thanks for the info!!!

[Jay W]

My trusses are spaced 12' apart. I could easily fit a lift between them without extra building height.

[bobracing]

I also see you are in Kennewick, think the roof height is 15'-0", this is 1/2 way up the roof slope but you'll have to pay attention to roof slope to get tall walls. Also remember the inside of a pole building is 6-8" shorter than wall height because of the trusses bottom beam.
As for the roof, I've seen trusses manually lifted into place and the roof built on the ground then winch into place on pole buildings, each pole had a Han winch.

[Jay W]

A lot of things can be done without renting equipment if you're creative. I did have to rent a mini ex to dig my holes, too many rocks. Also I concreted my poles in. I would definitely get wall girts up as soon as poles are set. They will start drying and warping if left alone.

[SPR]

Consider talking to the guys at Payless lumber in hermiston before you spend money on anything for the project. They can be a little quirky, but working with them can save you a lot of money and headache.

[Rottwheeler]

Many thanks to all for your insights. I'll be contacting the city regarding building permits and any restrictions. I'll also begin looking for build plans. More to follow...

[SPR]

Payless lumber set me up with a very detailed build plan and a complete material list for free because i brought the kit from them. No one in tri-cities could match their price or service. Their window and door prices were very good as well.

I simply took them a sketch of what I thought I wanted and they plugged into their design program to generate good plans. I still had to get an engineers wet stamp for $400 to satisfy the city of Kennewick. All materials were delivered to my build site. Their plans even show you how to cut the steel siding to size.

[pascoscout]

Payless is good. If they don't build trusses check out northwest truss in Pasco. They will design the truss for you if you give them the roof height and free span. Price includes engineer stamped plans for the trusses. Bought my last few sets of trusses from them, always has a good experience. You can build the trusses yourself if you want but I've found its cheaper and a lot faster to have them pre made.

[Wrench]

I have a 32'x50' stick-built with a 15' wall height. Foundation was a mono-pour slab with 2'x1' footing, took 42 yards of concrete at 6" thick.

Payless lumber screwed several things up for us, but it was also in the middle of the summer when things were pretty hectic for them.

When I did the research, the steel buildings were the best bang-for-buck on a well-sealed building and ease of assembly. I just didnt have the capitol up front to afford one. Pole buildings suck for sealing and would never fly in my neighborhood. Mine has vertical lap siding that matches everything else in the neighborhood.

Do a door that is 12wx14h. This will comfortably fit any RV, which will help the resale value.

[Jay W]

My building is well sealed. They make foam moulding that matches the ribs of the metal. Another reason to DIY your building. You can take care of small details and know they are done right.