My TJ Progress....

[mattawajeep]

Body & Motor Mount lifts were obviously a success as I made it to the meeting without losing my engine.

Got the radiator supports in with no problems (pulled the headlights), but the motor mount lift was a huge pain with only one set of hands. My little brother decided to skip out on me and do something social....

Some tinkering tonight installing a molle rack for the tailgate. My first aid kit is on the left, with a AR/1911 mag shingle on the right. I plan on attaching my mini shovel underneath the bags, and will find some way to secure my tow strap on the right.

Will probably replace the mag shingle with a pouch of some kind to hold various odds and ends that are filling my center console and back seat area. (Air attachments, air hose, tire gauge, spare shackle, snatchblock etc...)

[mattawajeep]

Got my internal winch controller panel installed tonight. Still need to run the actual wires to the winch, but that's the easy part. If anyone decides to go this route w/ a TJ I reccomend a slightly smaller panel. This one was a bear to get lined up, and I had to get a little creative with the dremel on some of the supports on the back.



Got the panel from 12voltguy.com, couldn't find any decent switches/buttons at the local parts store, and all the parts separately would have been expensive. Panel is tied into the ignition, so you have to have the key on, and buttons won't work unless the arming switch is engaged.

[iaccocca]

I just ordered some switches and such for the same project.

[mattawajeep]

I just ordered some switches and such for the same project.

Is your solenoid box still attached to your winch? I'm thinking about moving mine somewhere under the hood before I wire the switches up to it.

[iaccocca]

I just ordered some switches and such for the same project.

Is your solenoid box still attached to your winch? I'm thinking about moving mine somewhere under the hood before I wire the switches up to it.

Yup. classic Warn upright sitting there collecting the bugs. I'm not sure what the advantage of moving the solenoid box under the hood is, but either way the wiring at the box is simple enough you can do it now and move it later no hassles.
(Of course TJDave might inform me his solenoid box got broke on a run, so maybe there is an advantage.)

[mattawajeep]

Yah, I saw those pics, and a few others online and figured it might be a good idea to move it. Plus, I might try and add a transmission cooler, and every little bit of airflow helps.

[mattawajeep]

In the midst of tearing out the transmission I thought it would be a good idea for a few upgrades while it was out.

Sealed the stock vent hole inside the bell housing, removed the pump and then drilled/tapped a new vent, and extended the hose (and t-case vent hose) to the top of the transmission fill tube.



Removed the rear housing extension and fixed the nasty leak seen here:



Added a mopar deep transmission pan (Keeps the transmission supplied on steep climbs and adds an extra quart of fluid), and welded a bung onto the pan for a temp sensor.



Added an additional transmission cooler which you can kinda see through the grill. And another temp sensor on the return line so I can keep an eye on things.



And added in a temp guage. (Still needs to be wired into the dimmer circut, it's danged bright at the moment.)




And because all of the transmission messing around wasn't enough work I swapped out all the speakers and replaced the stock sterio with an Alpine and external amp. You know, cause the dash was all torn apart.



I also cobbled together a replacement for the crummy K&N CAI the previous owner installed out of a windstar airbox and some silicone & screws. When I get the right sized hole saw, and stock intake tube to get the right angle, I'll be moving the intake to the cowl and might even add a HMMVW style snorkle. Just in case it gets wet out here in the desert.



Replaced my headlights with HID's (one of them had a hole in it and kept filling with water). It's a 55W 6000K Hi/Low DDM kit with IPF E-code lenses. Here's me in the midst of aligning them so I don't blind anyone on the road. They're working great so far, way more light, and I can see for forever with the Hi beams on, and with the E-code lenses, It has less glare than stock for other drivers. I'm not getting flashed anymore and my headlights are way brighter.



And finally I replaced the wide 10" rims with some cheap alloy 15x8's. They might have a bit too much bling to them (thinking about breaking out the black spray paint) but I'll feel much more comfortable about airing down below 10psi now.

[tobyw]

I like the work and effort you are putting into your rig. However, if I may put in my $0.02, PLEASE do not ruin it by putting on a snorkel...

[looks for gay pride smilie]

[iaccocca]

I like the work and effort you are putting into your rig. However, if I may put in my $0.02, PLEASE do not ruin it by putting on a snorkel...

[looks for gay pride smilie]

Amen! If you move the intake to the cowl (Google MCAI) why would you need a snorkel?

Here you go Toby...
(What? I have lots of smileys... not that there is anything wrong with that.)

[mattawajeep]

Amen! If you move the intake to the cowl (Google MCAI) why would you need a snorkel?

Haha, mainly so I don't have to worry about flooding the engine from rainwater getting into the cowl (seems to be a semi-common occurance when the drain gets clogged). Suppose I could figure out the drain problem, or just be lazy and leave things as they are (most likely solution).

You guys really think they're that bad?

[White trash]

Snorkels are the easy way to spot posers and wanna be's miles away at a glance.

[mattawajeep]

Think I found a few of my problems.....







Yeah, it came out in two pieces.....

[Lurch]

Thought that seemed a little loose lol

[Chrispy]

wow. well the new one looks way better

[mattawajeep]

Well, got the new control arms for the lower front and rear installed. No more vibration at 60 - nice and smooth.

There's a slight vibration at 70 that I think may be coming from the front - but that could just be pinion angle. I have some more tweaking to do, the front control arm bolts have cam washers that let you adjust caster but I don't have it perfect yet.

Feels like a new vehicle, nice and smooth going into gear, alot less clunks. Might actually have to get the exhaust fixed now, and I think the steering components probably need a good looking over.

[tobyw]

There's a slight vibration at 70 that I think may be coming from the front - but that could just be pinion angle. I have some more tweaking to do, the front control arm bolts have cam washers that let you adjust caster but I don't have it perfect yet.

I'm confused... Or maybe the picture isn't what I think I'm looking at? But, aren't your control arms adjustable in length? No need to mess with cam washers if you have adjustable arms

[mattawajeep]

I'm confused... Or maybe the picture isn't what I think I'm looking at? But, aren't your control arms adjustable in length? No need to mess with cam washers if you have adjustable arms

They are adjustable, but I still have stock upper arms, and in order to get the right angle the lower arms needed to be shorter - I have them as short as they'll go, so cam bolt thingie time.

I probably need new adjustable control arms for the top as well, but them things are expensive and I could only buy 4 this last go around.

[mattawajeep]

Since I recently messed up my exhaust, I figured it was about time to mess it up further. That, and Rokmen finally lowered the prices on their 1/4" skids, so it was time to upgrade.

Should gain 2.5" of more clearance, which after the last run might actually come in handy someday. That and I might get better gas mileage if I'm not carrying a load of gravel with me everywhere.....










I'm glad I spent a bunch of time fabbing a really flat trans mount for the AW4 that would bolt up in the stock location.

Everything fits perfect except for a spot on the back of the skid where the transfer case was just touching. I think that's primarily the fault of my re-clocking a Cherokee transfer case and not getting the angle exactly like a normal TJ.

Couple minutes with a 7" grinder fixed that problem.



Now that I'm thinking about it, I should have probably checked the front driveline at full flex before painting. If I clocked the t-case slightly lower it could be a problem. Oh well, I'll drive it to the shop tomorrow and do some testing with the forklift.

[Livin4Today]

Then I went out to the Beverly dunes last night because I was bored and got stuck a mile away from any trees.

Grab 3 rods from Home Depot (Cement form style) make a mini teepee and you can sometimes pull yourself out, I carry 3 in my JK... Saw Frank do it in the A & B canyons after blowing his rear diff, pretty slick. He pulled himself up over the waterfall... But no guarranties with sand...

[mattawajeep]

So, I need new tires. My AT's probably have another 15k in them, but the tread is shallow enough I know I'm going to have some issues on the trail. Don't have the money to upgrade the Dana 30 so I'll be staying with 35x12.5x15R's.

MT/R's with Kevlar seem to be on sale most everywhere. I know a lot of us are running them. Anything run into anything they've liked better yet?

[Lurch]

Love my iroks!!! But would not recommend them for any street use. They wouldn't last long.

[mattawajeep]

Love my iroks!!! But would not recommend them for any street use. They wouldn't last long.

I don't plan on running my TV on the street much anymore, probably just the occasional drive or trip to the trail and back. Irok's would be sweet, but I don't think they make a tire that would fit my wheels (15x8's).

[White trash]

36" iroks fit well on 8" wheels. If you want something a bit smaller and more square ironically 37" iroks fit the bill. As completely silly as it is, the 37's are closer to 35 x13's.

[mattawajeep]

36" iroks fit well on 8" wheels. If you want something a bit smaller and more square ironically 37" iroks fit the bill. As completely silly as it is, the 37's are closer to 35 x13's.

You talking about Bias Ply or Radials?

I'm looking at this chart:

http://www.intercotire.com/tires.php?id=6

Tim, which are yours? I'd like to have the option of driving on the road if I need to, it sounds like the Bias ply versions do not balance which would be a problem.

[White trash]

Bias or radial the 37's are smaller than the 36" version in all dimensions. The radial 36's are more square than the balloony bias versions.