Jeep Gladiator

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79chevy39.5's
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Postby 79chevy39.5's » Wed Nov 14, 2012 3:16 am

if i remember correctly a 20 suffers from weak input and output shafts which are important parts to tow rigs especially those with manual trans.....i would look for a 88ish era suburban or 1 ton with the afermentioned 465/205(32 spline) or at least a new collared 10 spline setup

Wrench
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Postby Wrench » Thu Nov 15, 2012 9:02 am

I have a good SM465/205 combo, 10 spline that I could part with if someone has a solid 700r4 for me. My '85 Chebby 700r4 took a dump and I was planning on replacing the 700r4/208 combo with the 465/205 combo. If I could get a solid 700r4, it would be a lot less complicated.
Paul
'84 XJ, '19JL

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Lurch
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Postby Lurch » Thu Nov 15, 2012 9:20 am

I have a stock 20 in my bronco and it holds up fine. Unless you shock load it I don't see why it wouldn't be just fine.
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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Thu Nov 15, 2012 9:57 am

Wrench wrote:I have a good SM465/205 combo, 10 spline that I could part with if someone has a solid 700r4 for me. My '85 Chebby 700r4 took a dump and I was planning on replacing the 700r4/208 combo with the 465/205 combo. If I could get a solid 700r4, it would be a lot less complicated.


That would be awesome. I'm finding lots of SM465/205 combos on craigslist but they're all scattered across the west side. Kinda makes it hard to get to.

I'll start hunting for a good 700r4, and maybe we can work something out. Automatic to manual swaps need a lot of little parts - going through that on my mustang - I know I wouldn't want to bother on a work rig.

Wrench wrote:I have a stock 20 in my bronco and it holds up fine. Unless you shock load it I don't see why it wouldn't be just fine.


That's right. I thought someone in the club was running one. Didn't you flip it upside down and twin stick it?

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:03 am

Actually now that I think about it, we might have a good 700r4 in an old suburban at work. It got bought cheap at auction, then one of the bosses kids smashed the front end and it's been sitting for several years. I'll try and find what's gonna happen to it.

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Lurch
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Postby Lurch » Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:07 am

All I did was twin stick it. When I put the dual cases in it'll get an upgraded out put.
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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Thu Nov 15, 2012 11:38 am

The boss wants that suburban gone. All the windows have been broken out of it, so it's not worth him messing with. Looks like I just found a fuel injected 350 for my truck. :lol:

I think it's a 94, and I know it's an auto and ran good before the radiator was toasted in the wreck, so it should have what you're after. I'm gonna go take a look at it later and haul it to my house.

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bobracing
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Postby bobracing » Thu Nov 15, 2012 1:44 pm

The 94 is probably a 4L60E and won't work in place of a 700R4.
James
'92 YJ with a little something of everything.

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Lurch
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Postby Lurch » Thu Nov 15, 2012 1:49 pm

How close is the wheel base? Could do a body swap. Maybe even swap the ac over. Make for a sweet driver.
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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Thu Nov 15, 2012 2:48 pm

bobracing wrote:The 94 is probably a 4L60E and won't work in place of a 700R4.


Yeah, you're right. Darn. Woulda been too easy. Gonna have to keep looking for the right auto.

Engine will be nice though (checked the odometer and it's 211,000 miles). I'm thinking about sticking it in my brothers 1950 Willy's pickup. He can have the adapter to the T90 from the Gladiator and run with his current axles, steering, everything. That will clean up a lot of junk.

Lurch wrote:How close is the wheel base? Could do a body swap. Maybe even swap the ac over. Make for a sweet driver.


It's a half ton, with IFS so probably way too much work for the trouble. Good point about the AC though. There's lots of room in the gladiator, I can probably get that to work with minimal fiddling which will be very nice.

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Thu Nov 15, 2012 8:17 pm

Still haven't had any luck with the drums. Been applying PB blaster over the last few days, and finally assembled this:

The Claw....

Image



But still no luck, these things are pretty much welded onto the axles.

Image

Image

Yeah, thats the drum bulging. The puller is pulling the drum inside out. Think I'm gonna let it sit that way overnight and see if it pops loose.

79chevy39.5's
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Postby 79chevy39.5's » Thu Nov 15, 2012 8:28 pm

i dont know if you tried this but take a 8 or 10 lb sledge and hit on the flange in the bolt pattern circle the ones on my dodge took about 10 swings before it came free if they arent off by the 24th i could give you a hand getting them off. have torch and many hammers

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Thu Nov 15, 2012 8:45 pm

79chevy39.5's wrote:i dont know if you tried this but take a 8 or 10 lb sledge and hit on the flange in the bolt pattern circle the ones on my dodge took about 10 swings before it came free if they arent off by the 24th i could give you a hand getting them off. have torch and many hammers


Yeah, already tried the sledge in the bolt pattern. Alot. Also hit it in many other places as well. I think the puller will rip them off, I just need to do it in daylight. If the puller doesn't work, then it will be torch time.

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RoyBoy
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dana 20

Postby RoyBoy » Thu Nov 15, 2012 9:55 pm

nothing wrong with a dana 20. I raced one for six years, have had one in my Jeepster for 35 years still works.Have you thought about a Turbo 400 witch was used in jeeps from 1967-1972.

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White trash
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Re: dana 20

Postby White trash » Fri Nov 16, 2012 6:21 am

RoyBoy wrote:nothing wrong with a dana 20. I raced one for six years, have had one in my Jeepster for 35 years still works.Have you thought about a Turbo 400 witch was used in jeeps from 1967-1972.



There is nothing wrong with a samurai t case either but I wouldn't run either in a tow rig. :lol:


I'd double check price and availability of the drums and take a skinny wheel to them. Once you have a relief cut they'll pop right off. On the front I'm sure there is an easy way to swap discs on there instead.

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Postby Wrench » Fri Nov 16, 2012 7:55 am

I bet if you heat the flange with a torch real good, you can cook the rust apart and the drum will come right off.
Paul
'84 XJ, '19JL

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mattawajeep
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Re: dana 20

Postby mattawajeep » Fri Nov 16, 2012 9:58 am

White trash wrote:I'd double check price and availability of the drums and take a skinny wheel to them. Once you have a relief cut they'll pop right off. On the front I'm sure there is an easy way to swap discs on there instead.


Yeah, I'm thinking I need to do the axle swap sooner than later.

The Dana 60 I'm getting for the rear can get all new brakes converted to disc for around $200.

The front will be a bit more expensive, as I'm probably gonna have to buy spindles ect... Everything to convert to 8 lug before I even buy new calipers and pads will be close to $300 unless I can piece everything together cheaply.



Dana 60 Disc Brakes:

http://www.cutthroat4x4.com/catalog/pro ... ucts_id=59


Dana 44 HD Conversion:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-LUG-HUB-CONVE ... 14&vxp=mtr

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Fri Nov 16, 2012 4:48 pm

Well, the puller did the job. Tried heating with a mapp torch to no avail. Was too lazy to bring the big torch home from work, so....

Image

And since they gave me so much trouble, I decided a little revenge was in order.

My closeup of the drum was blurry, but I do have this:

Image

Image

I feel much better. :lol:

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Grumpy
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Postby Grumpy » Fri Nov 16, 2012 5:11 pm

Like my old Grandaddy used to say, "Don't get mad, get even" :twisted:
Dave
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White trash
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Postby White trash » Fri Nov 16, 2012 7:10 pm

You can pick up an entire axle for the price of that eBay kit. :lol: figure out if you can run large bearing spindles or if you have to stay small and we can work from there.

I'd be a nice guy and do the legwork for you but we don't have intardnet at the house yet just my phone and let's face it, I don't care enough about your problem to solve it for you. :lol:

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Fri Nov 16, 2012 7:21 pm

White trash wrote:You can pick up an entire axle for the price of that eBay kit. :lol: figure out if you can run large bearing spindles or if you have to stay small and we can work from there.

I'd be a nice guy and do the legwork for you but we don't have intardnet at the house yet just my phone and let's face it, I don't care enough about your problem to solve it for you. :lol:


Yeah, I need to figure out what front axle I'm going to actually use as the current one needs to go. 3.92 gears aint easy to match to a 60 or 14 bolt.

There are three free front 44's available to me, I think two of them are 4.11's. It'l be easier/cheaper if one of them can keep it's current spindles. Just gotta go out and actually measure the danged things to figure out what I've got. :D

It's that or, buy a whole new axle that's already 8 lug and has the gears I need.

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White trash
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Postby White trash » Fri Nov 16, 2012 7:25 pm

Personally I'd just grab one with 4.10's and get the 8 lug hubs to match the spindle. Small bearing gets 44 parts, large is 10 bolt. Simple. :D

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Sat Nov 17, 2012 11:12 am

Here's a working 700r4 in kennewick for $190.

http://kpr.craigslist.org/pts/3416294657.html

Might work.

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mattawajeep
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Postby mattawajeep » Mon Nov 19, 2012 12:49 am

What do you guys think of this:

http://yakima.craigslist.org/cto/3419548628.html

Looks to have a bunch of the parts I need. PTO winch would be cool if I could make it work.

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White trash
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Postby White trash » Mon Nov 19, 2012 7:20 am

Jump on it! That's the best possible 44 that will fit your needs and I can just about guarantee its got 4.10's too.


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